Pre-oiler question

[bobcowan]

OEM engines don't use a pre-oiler, and they last well over 100K miles on routine maintenance alone. Personally, I don't see the need for one.

[Silversmith]

Chas, I'm sure you have more knowlage about FE's than I. I was stating a opinon about accumulators. The engine I have pulls very strong approching 7000 rpm. While it's true my AC dosen't pull like CSX 3116 that I grew up in did; even though both AC's have & had the same engine type & builder. CSX 3116 did have two 715 holley dbl. pumpers, a different cam & 12.5:1 compression to my single dbl. pumper, a like cam & less compression. Also, CSX 3116 did weigh almost 500lbs less than my era. But I assure you that my sideoiler will pull very strong @ 7000rpm. In fact, if you wish to come to Maine I will be happy to show you. Once the snow melts that is. Bring your ride, we'll take a romp up on the Kangamangus Hwy. in the White mountains. Then romp down to the coast & pig out on Lobsta's. As to my accumulator & my recomendation? I feel extremely secure with 12+ qts. I have heard it said, when it come to real power "there is no replacement for cubic inches." Well, I feel the same way about oil & oil pressure when high Hp is involved, more is better!. Thats my opinon, & I'm sticking with it. By the way, Holmon Moody is still around, and they were/are magicians!

[Silversmith]

Lippy, The accumulator, the oil cooler, engine, piping etc.. It's all one system. Think of your oil flow moving like electrons in a electrical series circuit; from negitive to postive. Hot oil moves out of the engine through the cooler, through the accumulator back to the engine. When the engine is shut down the accumulator stores the oil @ pressure until called for. When your ready to restart, supply voltage to the accumulator, open the valve, build pressure & start engine. the engine never runs w/out oil pressure. The accumulator can be mounted anywhere, in the engine bay or out. I pefer mine out. For me, I feel it keeps the oil cooler during hot driving conditions. A friend of mine who races AC's alot, has his accumulator sitting in the place of the passenger seat! A BB engine in a AC produces alot of heat! Cooler oil is better oil IMO. The accumulator system you investagate/buy. Will/should have quality instructions on the instillation procedure. Plus, I can think of no better engine builder (except mabe HM) than Brent. To help you sort through the accumulator choices, & best location for installation. Good Luck M8

[lippy]

Originally Posted by Silversmith

Lippy, The accumulator, the oil cooler, engine, piping etc.. It's all one system. Think of your oil flow moving like electrons in a electrical series circuit; from negitive to postive. Hot oil moves out of the engine through the cooler, through the accumulator back to the engine. When the engine is shut down the accumulator stores the oil @ pressure until called for. When your ready to restart, supply voltage to the accumulator, open the valve, build pressure & start engine. the engine never runs w/out oil pressure. The accumulator can be mounted anywhere, in the engine bay or out. I pefer mine out. For me, I feel it keeps the oil cooler during hot driving conditions. A friend of mine who races AC's alot, has his accumulator sitting in the place of the passenger seat! A BB engine in a AC produces alot of heat! Cooler oil is better oil IMO. The accumulator system you investagate/buy. Will/should have quality instructions on the instillation procedure. Plus, I can think of no better engine builder (except mabe HM) than Brent. To help you sort through the accumulator choices, & best location for installation. Good Luck M8

Thanks again! My question really is: where did you plumb the accumulator system into the existing engines oil system? On the oil cooler, on a remote filter block, or somewhere else? If I do this I'm trying to figure out if I need to get the remote oil location kit from ERA.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by lippy

Thanks again! My question really is: where did you plumb the accumulator system into the existing engines oil system? On the oil cooler, on a remote filter block, or somewhere else? If I do this I'm trying to figure out if I need to get the remote oil location kit from ERA.

I think you just want an Accusump. That's ok, there's nothing wrong with that. Just remember, a lot of us have cars, and have had them over the years, that only get started every few months or so, and they suffer no ill effects. My Cobra sits, untouched, from Thanksgiving to Easter. Then I just crank it a little bit until I see the oil gauge needle move, turn on the ignition, and fire her up. But, if you want an Accusump, then put in an Accusump. Here's how you might do it in an ERA:

[dallas_]

Originally Posted by lippy

Thanks again! My question really is: where did you plumb the accumulator system into the existing engines oil system? On the oil cooler, on a remote filter block, or somewhere else? If I do this I'm trying to figure out if I need to get the remote oil location kit from ERA.

Here is the Accusump installation instructions. That will help you figure out the plumbing. If you want to keep the filter on the block, there is a sandwich adaptor with a thermostat that mounts to the block.

Canton Racing Products - Accusump Tech

[Silversmith]

Lippy, my system start & returns @ the original filter point on the long block via a sandwich block. Dallas has a good point on the previous post follow that & you'll do fine. Accusump is a good system, just add what you feeel comfortable with. Many AC owners don't use any system @ all & do just fine.
Good Luck.

[patrickt]

Didn't somebody around here have an accusump explode last year, or the year before? I remember somebody had some sort of problem....

[lippy]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

OEM engines don't use a pre-oiler, and they last well over 100K miles on routine maintenance alone. Personally, I don't see the need for one.

That's a good point, but I use my daily driver every day, and realistically there will be times my Cobra may sit for a month between drives.

[mdross1]

Gave this a lot of thought,a very good idea but just a little overkill.Think about antique motors that were splash fed (no oil pump and of course no oil filter)and how long they lasted with babbet bearings no less.My fix was use synthetic oil, it resists heat a lot better they claim it stays in place better.

[blykins]

I don't know of many antique motors with 10:5 compression, 600 hp, roller lifters with needle bearings, etc. Those old motors would run with strips of leather behind the bearings....hahaha.

[mdross1]

Originally Posted by blykins

I don't know of many antique motors with 10:5 compression, 600 hp, roller lifters with needle bearings, etc. Those old motors would run with strips of leather behind the bearings....hahaha.

Your right blykins was trying to make a point.Think then about compression ignition diesel engines that are started every day like their counterpart gas engines and how long these motors last.
One example Amsoil advertizes is a trucker with bypass filtering went 409,000 miles on one oil change,course he had his oil analyzed periodically.
I do believe in the Accusump or something similiar for racing and for those that feel the need on their pride and joys.
As many engines as I have built or rebuilt and seen the condition some of them were in while tearing them down know for a fact what works and what is overkill especially on the street.Race motors presents another whole ball of wax.

[blykins]

Originally Posted by mdross1

Your right blykins was trying to make a point.Think then about compression ignition diesel engines that are started every day like their counterpart gas engines and how long these motors last.
One example Amsoil advertizes is a trucker with bypass filtering went 409,000 miles on one oil change,course he had his oil analyzed periodically.
I do believe in the Accusump or something similiar for racing and for those that feel the need on their pride and joys.
As many engines as I have built or rebuilt and seen the condition some of them were in while tearing them down know for a fact what works and what is overkill especially on the street.Race motors presents another whole ball of wax.

I would imagine that a big diesel engine spends 90% of its time running anyway, so start-up wear is greatly decreased. These guys will put 400k miles on an engine in a couple of years, so it's a totally different application.

Regardless, if I were to spend that much money on a car, and that much money on an engine, the $400 bucks or so to eliminate any chance of wear just seems beneficial to me.

I see the resounding theme of that oil pressure builds up in a few seconds or so, but what happens in that few seconds before the oil gets there? Kinda hard to say and I'm sure it varies from engine to engine.

Cheap insurance.

I really don't know what would be the "negative" of buying a pre-oiler....cost? Fitment? The aggravation of activating it before you fire the motor? If it were offered for free, would you all still pass on it? Or would you say, "Yeah, give it to me."

From time to time I find myself in discussions on various forums about engine building practices. I have expressed concern on different times about using Plastigage to build an engine, only to find myself in a heated argument about criticizing others' engine building practices. Even got myself kicked off of another forum for sticking to my opinion....hahaha

Regardless, the words I kept hearing were: "If I were to buy an engine from you Brent, I would expect you to check the clearances with a mic and bore mic and map them out. However, I can't afford to buy a mic, so I use Plastigage."

It's the same thing here....I'm offering my opinion, but if you guys were to buy an assembled car/engine package from me (if I did that sort of thing), there would not be much said about it if I stuck an Accusump in there. So where is the line drawn?