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3Likes

01-31-2013, 09:07 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: York Co. Maine USA,
ME
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427 S/C W/Holmon Moody Original Nascar build #508 Iron Block/heads (C5AE-H) Bal/Blu 427 Sideoiler; 780 Holley Dbl. Pump; 4 Speed Top Loader; AP Racing Bks; IRS; 15" Trigo pins
Posts: 391
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Not Ranked
Lippy, The accumulator, the oil cooler, engine, piping etc.. It's all one system. Think of your oil flow moving like electrons in a electrical series circuit; from negitive to postive. Hot oil moves out of the engine through the cooler, through the accumulator back to the engine. When the engine is shut down the accumulator stores the oil @ pressure until called for. When your ready to restart, supply voltage to the accumulator, open the valve, build pressure & start engine. the engine never runs w/out oil pressure. The accumulator can be mounted anywhere, in the engine bay or out. I pefer mine out. For me, I feel it keeps the oil cooler during hot driving conditions. A friend of mine who races AC's alot, has his accumulator sitting in the place of the passenger seat!  A BB engine in a AC produces alot of heat!  Cooler oil is better oil IMO. The accumulator system you investagate/buy. Will/should have quality instructions on the instillation procedure. Plus, I can think of no better engine builder (except mabe HM) than Brent. To help you sort through the accumulator choices, & best location for installation. Good Luck M8 
Last edited by Silversmith; 01-31-2013 at 09:09 PM..
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01-31-2013, 09:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silversmith
Lippy, The accumulator, the oil cooler, engine, piping etc.. It's all one system. Think of your oil flow moving like electrons in a electrical series circuit; from negitive to postive. Hot oil moves out of the engine through the cooler, through the accumulator back to the engine. When the engine is shut down the accumulator stores the oil @ pressure until called for. When your ready to restart, supply voltage to the accumulator, open the valve, build pressure & start engine. the engine never runs w/out oil pressure. The accumulator can be mounted anywhere, in the engine bay or out. I pefer mine out. For me, I feel it keeps the oil cooler during hot driving conditions. A friend of mine who races AC's alot, has his accumulator sitting in the place of the passenger seat!  A BB engine in a AC produces alot of heat!  Cooler oil is better oil IMO. The accumulator system you investagate/buy. Will/should have quality instructions on the instillation procedure. Plus, I can think of no better engine builder (except mabe HM) than Brent. To help you sort through the accumulator choices, & best location for installation. Good Luck M8 
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Thanks again! My question really is: where did you plumb the accumulator system into the existing engines oil system? On the oil cooler, on a remote filter block, or somewhere else? If I do this I'm trying to figure out if I need to get the remote oil location kit from ERA.
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02-01-2013, 04:47 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,017
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
Thanks again! My question really is: where did you plumb the accumulator system into the existing engines oil system? On the oil cooler, on a remote filter block, or somewhere else? If I do this I'm trying to figure out if I need to get the remote oil location kit from ERA.
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I think you just want an Accusump.  That's ok, there's nothing wrong with that. Just remember, a lot of us have cars, and have had them over the years, that only get started every few months or so, and they suffer no ill effects. My Cobra sits, untouched, from Thanksgiving to Easter. Then I just crank it a little bit until I see the oil gauge needle move, turn on the ignition, and fire her up. But, if you want an Accusump, then put in an Accusump. Here's how you might do it in an ERA:

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02-01-2013, 05:47 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dallas,
tx
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR track car, SL-C track car
Posts: 1,262
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
Thanks again! My question really is: where did you plumb the accumulator system into the existing engines oil system? On the oil cooler, on a remote filter block, or somewhere else? If I do this I'm trying to figure out if I need to get the remote oil location kit from ERA.
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Here is the Accusump installation instructions. That will help you figure out the plumbing. If you want to keep the filter on the block, there is a sandwich adaptor with a thermostat that mounts to the block.
Canton Racing Products - Accusump Tech
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02-01-2013, 07:02 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: York Co. Maine USA,
ME
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427 S/C W/Holmon Moody Original Nascar build #508 Iron Block/heads (C5AE-H) Bal/Blu 427 Sideoiler; 780 Holley Dbl. Pump; 4 Speed Top Loader; AP Racing Bks; IRS; 15" Trigo pins
Posts: 391
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Not Ranked
Lippy, my system start & returns @ the original filter point on the long block via a sandwich block. Dallas has a good point on the previous post follow that & you'll do fine. Accusump is a good system, just add what you feeel comfortable with. Many AC owners don't use any system @ all & do just fine.
Good Luck. 
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02-01-2013, 07:46 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,017
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Not Ranked
Didn't somebody around here have an accusump explode last year, or the year before?  I remember somebody had some sort of problem....
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02-01-2013, 08:23 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Lippy, Pat's point is well taken-unless you track the car.
I'm sure Brent would agree-nice to have but problematic.
Here's why I say that:
In the late 90's, I bought a complete Accusump (2 qt.), hoses and mechanical valve and began the planning of the installation. I intended track use and long lay-ups and was convinced I 'needed' one.
The pic Pat shows highlights the first problem-many guys mount them on the front X-member. The first time you have to check / change timing, you will hate yourself. Access to the damper and it's bolt is lost. Not good for adjusting solid lifters. Sure you can bump the starter to open and close the correct valves but there are other times when you need to change position by hand.
So being a genius I figured I'd mount the tank behind the driver seat, next to the tunnel. Then run the line forward against the tunnel, to the mechanical valve at the front edge of my seat-close enough to reach down and open/close it. Then more line forward, out the trans tunnel, along the block side to the block adapter. You don't want a remote filter because in ERA's there very little room for hoses and fittings going up and down. Access to your water pump, a leaking rad hose and the fuel line from a mechanical pump is now punishing.
In short it's an overengineered, impractical non-necessity, unless you race. In the end I decided against adding 1000 fittings of all geometry and all the complexity. I sold the unit to a pal with a different car.
If you're a hands-on owner, you'll regret it for negligible benefit. If you pay to have work done, you'll pay much more (hours) while the guy has to remove half your oil system to do simple maintenance on your car.
And the way to live without one is easy. Many guys like Pat live just fine without it. If you lay the car up for 2-3 months the easy thing to do if you're worried is remove the distributor and with a speed wrench, spin the oil driveshaft and you can get 40 psi on the gauge easy. Then start in the normal manner and run it.
I found out I worried for nothing as that's the way I maintained the motor and on track (road course, autocross, drag strip) my Canton road race pan did a great job of keeping oil pressure up. If you hole the block, having oil pumping in isn't gonna save you much until you shut it off.
In short-you probably don't need the expense and complexity. A mild 482 at 600HP is not a highly stressed unit. And you certainly don't need 12 qts of oil so you can sleep tight at night.
__________________
Chas.
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02-03-2013, 06:37 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cinnaminson,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobra Fibercraft Bodies 427 S/C, 351W disguised as a 427.
Posts: 391
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Not Ranked
In my Cobra I use a product called Pre-Luber. It gives me the desired oil pressure build up and circulation I want prior to starting the engine without the plumbing, accumulator, etc. required by the Accusump system. My setup has worked flawlessly for more than eight years now and I love it. Here is the link "http://www.prelub.com/web/Engine-Pre-Lube/pre-lube.html". When I first turn the key, the pump activates, drawing oil from the oil pan just like the oil pump does, passes it through the oil filter and builds pressure. The pump automatically shuts off in 60 seconds. You can even set the system to continue to pump oil through the motor for up to 60 seconds after shutting the engine off if you like but I don't use that feature. You must use a sandwich type adapter between the engine block and the oil filter. Because I also run an oil cooler I chose a Mocal adapter with a built-in thermostat to keep oil from the cooler until it was hot.
In my opinion, this system works very well, takes up less installation space and is simpler to install and operate than the conventional Accusump. The only disadvantage is that if you suddenly lose oil pressure the Pre-luber won't maintain oil pressure like the Accusump system will. For street use, the Pre-luber can't be beat. For racing I would not recommend it. Then only the Accusump would be recommended.
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