Pre-oiler question

[dallas_]

Originally Posted by lippy

Thanks again! My question really is: where did you plumb the accumulator system into the existing engines oil system? On the oil cooler, on a remote filter block, or somewhere else? If I do this I'm trying to figure out if I need to get the remote oil location kit from ERA.

Here is the Accusump installation instructions. That will help you figure out the plumbing. If you want to keep the filter on the block, there is a sandwich adaptor with a thermostat that mounts to the block.

Canton Racing Products - Accusump Tech

[Silversmith]

Lippy, my system start & returns @ the original filter point on the long block via a sandwich block. Dallas has a good point on the previous post follow that & you'll do fine. Accusump is a good system, just add what you feeel comfortable with. Many AC owners don't use any system @ all & do just fine.
Good Luck.

[patrickt]

Didn't somebody around here have an accusump explode last year, or the year before? I remember somebody had some sort of problem....

[ERA Chas]

Lippy, Pat's point is well taken-unless you track the car.
I'm sure Brent would agree-nice to have but problematic.
Here's why I say that:
In the late 90's, I bought a complete Accusump (2 qt.), hoses and mechanical valve and began the planning of the installation. I intended track use and long lay-ups and was convinced I 'needed' one.
The pic Pat shows highlights the first problem-many guys mount them on the front X-member. The first time you have to check / change timing, you will hate yourself. Access to the damper and it's bolt is lost. Not good for adjusting solid lifters. Sure you can bump the starter to open and close the correct valves but there are other times when you need to change position by hand.
So being a genius I figured I'd mount the tank behind the driver seat, next to the tunnel. Then run the line forward against the tunnel, to the mechanical valve at the front edge of my seat-close enough to reach down and open/close it. Then more line forward, out the trans tunnel, along the block side to the block adapter. You don't want a remote filter because in ERA's there very little room for hoses and fittings going up and down. Access to your water pump, a leaking rad hose and the fuel line from a mechanical pump is now punishing.
In short it's an overengineered, impractical non-necessity, unless you race. In the end I decided against adding 1000 fittings of all geometry and all the complexity. I sold the unit to a pal with a different car.
If you're a hands-on owner, you'll regret it for negligible benefit. If you pay to have work done, you'll pay much more (hours) while the guy has to remove half your oil system to do simple maintenance on your car.
And the way to live without one is easy. Many guys like Pat live just fine without it. If you lay the car up for 2-3 months the easy thing to do if you're worried is remove the distributor and with a speed wrench, spin the oil driveshaft and you can get 40 psi on the gauge easy. Then start in the normal manner and run it.
I found out I worried for nothing as that's the way I maintained the motor and on track (road course, autocross, drag strip) my Canton road race pan did a great job of keeping oil pressure up. If you hole the block, having oil pumping in isn't gonna save you much until you shut it off.
In short-you probably don't need the expense and complexity. A mild 482 at 600HP is not a highly stressed unit. And you certainly don't need 12 qts of oil so you can sleep tight at night.

[SuperHart]

In my Cobra I use a product called Pre-Luber. It gives me the desired oil pressure build up and circulation I want prior to starting the engine without the plumbing, accumulator, etc. required by the Accusump system. My setup has worked flawlessly for more than eight years now and I love it. Here is the link "http://www.prelub.com/web/Engine-Pre-Lube/pre-lube.html". When I first turn the key, the pump activates, drawing oil from the oil pan just like the oil pump does, passes it through the oil filter and builds pressure. The pump automatically shuts off in 60 seconds. You can even set the system to continue to pump oil through the motor for up to 60 seconds after shutting the engine off if you like but I don't use that feature. You must use a sandwich type adapter between the engine block and the oil filter. Because I also run an oil cooler I chose a Mocal adapter with a built-in thermostat to keep oil from the cooler until it was hot.

In my opinion, this system works very well, takes up less installation space and is simpler to install and operate than the conventional Accusump. The only disadvantage is that if you suddenly lose oil pressure the Pre-luber won't maintain oil pressure like the Accusump system will. For street use, the Pre-luber can't be beat. For racing I would not recommend it. Then only the Accusump would be recommended.