Anybody installed a 5.0 aluminator engine in a cobra?

[MJJ]

I am a new member that is doing my homework prior to purchasing. Not sure if I am going to buy a complete car or buy a roller.

While I love the authentic 427 and its sound I am also consider a modern day modular motor.

I want something that will be easy to start, doesn't surge and idle's well at a stop since my wife wants to drive it as well.

She already has a 575hp svt cobra, it is fuel injected and drives like a normal car until you hit the skinny pedal.

Just was curious if anyone had installed the beefed up 302 Ford Racing Aluminator? Not sure how much custom work needs to be done to get one of these to work?

5.0L ALUMINATOR XS CRATE ENGINE | Part Details for M-6007-A50XS* | Ford Racing Performance Parts

Thank you.

Tag

[jualwatt]

Jay and Brian at Vintage Motorsports have done several straight coyotes as well as my coyote aluminator NA and at least 2 supercharged versions and an aluminator XS coming soon. You can see build pictures of cars in process as well as completed on their web site.

Home

Since I had mine installed, I do not have all the details, but do know that there was some perp work on the engine compartment fiberglass to accommodate the wider motor and the engine placement is critical. I have also heard that the throttle by wire conversion is not the easiest to install.

All said, even with the additional expense, I would do it all over again. Had the car just under a year and have 3500 trouble free miles on it.

If you are going turnkey or roller, talk to Jay at Vintage Motorsports first.

[MJJ]

Originally Posted by jualwatt

Jay and Brian at Vintage Motorsports have done several straight coyotes as well as my coyote aluminator NA and at least 2 supercharged versions and an aluminator XS coming soon. You can see build pictures of cars in process as well as completed on their web site.

Home

Since I had mine installed, I do not have all the details, but do know that there was some perp work on the engine compartment fiberglass to accommodate the wider motor and the engine placement is critical. I have also heard that the throttle by wire conversion is not the easiest to install.

All said, even with the additional expense, I would do it all over again. Had the car just under a year and have 3500 trouble free miles on it.

If you are going turnkey or roller, talk to Jay at Vintage Motorsports first.

Thank you very much for the info. This is exactly what I was hoping to get.

I am going to send you a PM.

[eschaider]

There have been two generations of the ModMotor which Ford has used. The first generation was the original ModMotor and with head changes used continuously since 1992. The second is the current Coyote variant of the engine. The one in the link you referenced is a Coyote version of the gen 1 Daytona Prototype engine that broke everybody's brain a couple of years ago at Daytona in their prototype class.

Both the first and second generation versions of the engine are pretty impressive. The most impressive is the supercharged first generation version used in the '03/'04 SVT Cobras. Those engines with only an aftermarket blower (KB or Whipple) produce mind bending performances while idling at 800 rpm getting 24 mpg and passing California emissions.

The extremely broad and flat torque curve the engine produces is impressive and makes the car a lot of fun to drive, to say the least. With a replacement for the stock Eaton blower these engines easily produce more than 600 ft/lbs of torque from essentially just off idle.

Here is a '03 Cobra with the original engine still in the car. The engine has never been removed and never had a valve cover removed. It has an aftermarket 4.0L Whipple blower and it weighs 3300 lbs or possibly a little more.

This YouTube video of the car is a final round appearance @ MIR's NMRA meet a couple of weeks ago, click here => MIR Meet The car is the red '03 Cobra coupe in the right lane. The link should open the video up at the 5 minute 10 second point where they show the final round of eliminations. Of course you can always use a smaller Whipple if you don’t want to go that fast.

Both the first and second generations of the engines produce similar power in supercharged form. The first generation however is much easier to work on. If you have to remove the heads on a Coyote generation engine you need to remove all four cams to get at the head bolts/studs and then retime all four cams when you reassemble the engine. On the first generation versions of the engine the heads come off with the cams in place and still properly timed making reassembly a breeze.

These engines tend to be light for what they are. Fully dressed with a blower they come in at about 450 lbs which gives our cars very nice handling characteristics.

While not even close to period correct they are impressive in both performance and appearance. Physically the engine is as big as a SOHC engine so you get the wall to wall engine effect when you open the hood. I suppose you could argue that is has the modern day DNA of its namesake so it has some redeeming lineage considerations.

All in all not a bad choice for fun, reliability and pure performance …


Ed

[MJJ]

Originally Posted by eschaider

There have been two generations of the ModMotor which Ford has used. The first generation was the original ModMotor and with head changes used continuously since 1992. The second is the current Coyote variant of the engine. The one in the link you referenced is a Coyote version of the gen 1 Daytona Prototype engine that broke everybody's brain a couple of years ago at Daytona in their prototype class.

Both the first and second generation versions of the engine are impressive. The most impressive is the supercharged first generation version used in the '03/'04 SVT Cobras. Those engines with only an aftermarket blower (KB or Whipple) produce mind bending performances while idling at 800 rpm getting 24 mpg and passing California emissions.

The extremely broad and flat torque curve the engine produces is impressive and a lot of fun to drive, to say the least. With a replacement for the stock Eaton blower these engines easily produce more than 600 ft/lbs of torque from essentially just off idle.

Here is a '03 Cobra with the original engine still in the car. The engine has never been removed and never had a valve cover removed. It has an aftermarket 4.0L Whipple blower and it weighs 3300 lbs or possibly a little more.

This YouTube video of the car is a final round appearance @ MIR's NMRA meet a couple of weeks ago, click here => MIR Meet The car is the red '03 Cobra coupe in the right lane. The link should open the video up at the 5 minute 10 second point where they show the final round of eliminations. Of course you can always use a smaller Whipple if you don’t want to go that fast.

Both the first and second generations of the engines produce similar power in supercharged form. The first generation however is much easier to work on. If you have to remove the heads on a Coyote generation engine you need to remove all four cams to get at the head bolts/studs and then retime all four cams when you reassemble the engine. On the first generation versions of the engine the heads come off with the cams in place and still properly timed making reassembly a breeze.

These engines tend to be light for what they are. Fully dressed with a blower they come in at about 450 lbs which gives our cars very nice handling characteristics.

While not even close to period correct they are impressive in both performance and appearance. Physically the engine is as big as a SOHC engine so you get the wall to wall engine effect when you open the hood. I suppose you could argue that is has the modern day DNA of its namesake so it has some redeeming lineage considerations.

All in all not a bad choice for fun, reliability and pure performance …


Ed

Ed

Thanks for the info!

We have an 04 modded Terminator already along with a modded 11GT500 and love it, so I am very familiar with those engines. Torque monsters.

Based on what I have learned and my conversation with Jay at Vintage I am pretty sure what direction I will go. I am going to go with the 11:1 5.0 aluminator. With two supercharged cars I am looking for a N/A car.

I am not really concerned about the period correct look in the engine bay. I know it is important to many but not as important to me.

I do love the look of 15" wheels and GY Billboards though.

BTW - I never see myself putting a top,... even a soft top. Is it a mistake not to order one?

Generally How long does it take from order to have a car completed with engine and tranny installed? 3-6 months? Might need to time this to avoid winter.

Thanks

TAG

[jualwatt]

I had mine in 8 weeks (deposit to delivery), but I chose a vehicle already coming down the line. A custom order or order from scratch will take longer. I did not have the patience and am very happy with what I chose anyway. I did not get a top either, just a tanneau cover. Have not missed it yet!

Julian

[fordracing65]

The T-50 and R-50 Cammer were the first 5 litre DOHC engines Ford made, they are the engines the Coyote was modeled after, and have the most wins in Grand Am for Ford, The T-50 was rated at 440hp while the R-50 was rated at 500hp... Both were offered in the Ford Racing Catalog in 2004-2005...so there are actually 3 versions if you count the 4.6 DOHC with them... The R-50 Cammer was the first 5 litre used in the Daytona Prototype class for racing...

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by MJJ

Ed

Thanks for the info!

We have an 04 modded Terminator already along with a modded 11GT500 and love it, so I am very familiar with those engines. Torque monsters.

Based on what I have learned and my conversation with Jay at Vintage I am pretty sure what direction I will go. I am going to go with the 11:1 5.0 aluminator. With two supercharged cars I am looking for a N/A car.

I am not really concerned about the period correct look in the engine bay. I know it is important to many but not as important to me.

I do love the look of 15" wheels and GY Billboards though.

BTW - I never see myself putting a top,... even a soft top. Is it a mistake not to order one?

Generally How long does it take from order to have a car completed with engine and tranny installed? 3-6 months? Might need to time this to avoid winter.

Thanks

TAG

Mine is an SPF, TAG, so I don't really have a qualified answer for a Backdraft. Jualwatt sounds like he is a better delivery barometer.

As good as the Billboards look (and they do) the Avons represent a comparable (some say better) radial solution to the which tire question. The Billboards can hunt depending on your alignment set up, where as the Avons tend to be less sensitive to the hunting issue.

These cars are fair weather vehicles, although some of us have been known to get caught in the rain. As a fair weather vehicle the open cockpit experience is very much a part of the overall thrill. If you are particularly sensitive to the sun use sun block.

If you just want to be complete or have insurance for that unexpected down pour the top will assuage your concerns. If you have not gone to the trouble of sealing up your car in all the places that water can (and will) enter you will be almost as wet with the top up as you would have been with the top down. FWIW at least with the top down your windshield does not fog up on you.


Ed

[951mat]

You might consider talking to Larry Goins at JBL if you're at all interested in a JBL. He's doing Corbras and Coupes with 5.0 modulars. PM me for his number.

Mat

[fordracing65]

The Coyote drops right into a Superformance also, all you have to do is order the roller with Mod Motor Mounts, no fabrication is needed, it as simple as pie...

[MJJ]

Originally Posted by fordracing65

The Coyote drops right into a Superformance also, all you have to do is order the roller with Mod Motor Mounts, no fabrication is needed, it as simple as pie...

Good to know. They are a top shelf company. Appreciate the feedback. I know there is one on eBay right now for 70k.

[fordracing65]

Originally Posted by MJJ

Good to know. They are a top shelf company. Appreciate the feedback. I know there is one on eBay right now for 70k.

I would offer $55,000 and work up form there, 60k max, there are so many great SPF cars out there for 40k to 50k, not with the Coyote but it's not worth 25k more to have that engine over say a Windsor, which I prefer over a Mod motor any day, more power and tg, with great reliability...

[fordracing65]

Also lots of great Backdrafts out there for much cheaper also and I mean much, and it is a great car with great handling and looks, unless your really set on a Coyoyte motor look into a good used one with a Windsor, you won't be disappointed.. I have driven both and owned one, they are both top notch cars... My SPF had a DOHC Cammer in it, if I could have done it again I would have gotten a Windsor and never looked back... I would have bought a used one and saved the money over a new one and had just as big of a smile on my face...

[PCW]

There are many you tube's with Alumniator's in BDR's, long drives, most do come from Vintage. The Aluminator is a great motor, hand built and can handle 700 + HP when supercharged. I was considering a BDR with this setup, but always kept coming back to a Kirkham, so my mind is set now, saving my penny's

pcw

[MJJ]

Originally Posted by fordracing65

Also lots of great Backdrafts out there for much cheaper also and I mean much, and it is a great car with great handling and looks, unless your really set on a Coyoyte motor look into a good used one with a Windsor, you won't be disappointed.. I have driven both and owned one, they are both top notch cars... My SPF had a DOHC Cammer in it, if I could have done it again I would have gotten a Windsor and never looked back... I would have bought a used one and saved the money over a new one and had just as big of a smile on my face...

If I were to go the pre-owned route....

Where are the best places to find a used cobra?

I am aware of cobra country, ebay, auto trader classic. Any others??

Thanks

Tag

[fordracing65]

Originally Posted by MJJ

If I were to go the pre-owned route....

Where are the best places to find a used cobra?

I am aware of cobra country, ebay, auto trader classic. Any others??

Thanks

Tag

I like Cobra Country the best, they have sold tons of these cars, most listed are by honorable Cobra owners, there are cars sold on this site as well, just my opinion used is the only way to buy, let the other guy spend all the money building it and pass the huge savings on to yourself. If you talk to most people on here they have blown their budgets building these cars and never get any of it back when they sell. Plus there are so many used cars to choose from so your in the drivers seat to say the least...

[eschaider]

Tag,

If your objective is to get a good looking, well built, good performing car there are any number of credible choices available through the different points of sale already mentioned.

If however your objective is to build a customized version of the car, to a set of specs you have fallen in love with, buying new and building to your dream is the only certain way to get what you are looking for. The ante at that poker table as others have already observed is noticeably higher.

There is a middle ground that has a corresponding middle ground ante. You can buy a car that approximates or is reasonably close to your dream spec. Once you own it you go about modifying it to ultimately meet your spec.

This middle ground approach, in addition to a probable lower entry point price wise, gives you the benefit of having a driveable version of the car immediately that you migrate at your pace to your preferred configuration. For a first time owner, unless you are very certain of how you want the car, this allows you to have a stepping off point that you modify from based on both your wants and also what you learn from your driving experiences in the base car that you began your project with.

Ed

[MJJ]

Originally Posted by eschaider

Tag,

If your objective is to get a good looking, well built, good performing car there are any number of credible choices available through the different points of sale already mentioned.

If however your objective is to build a customized version of the car, to a set of specs you have fallen in love with, buying new and building to your dream is the only certain way to get what you are looking for. The ante at that poker table as others have already observed is noticeably higher.

There is a middle ground that has a corresponding middle ground ante. You can buy a car that approximates or is reasonably close to your dream spec. Once you own it you go about modifying it to ultimately meet your spec.

This middle ground approach, in addition to a probable lower entry point price wise, gives you the benefit of having a driveable version of the car immediately that you migrate at your pace to your preferred configuration. For a first time owner, unless you are very certain of how you want the car, this allows you to have a stepping off point that you modify from based on both your wants and also what you learn from your driving experiences in the base car that you began your project with.

Ed

Thank you for sharing your thoughts. Very helpful.

Tag

[Cashburn]

One thing that many of our customers are now taking advantage of is our consignment offerings. They save thousands over new and since they are on site we can add any options they may want but the used car may not have. We also completely service them up to spec.

Currently have 2 consignments, with 2 or 3 more inbound.

[Cashburn]

One thing that many of our customers are now taking advantage of is our consignment offerings. They save thousands over new and since they are on site we can add any options they may want but the used car may not have. We also completely service them up to spec.

Currently have 2 consignments, with 2 or 3 more inbound.