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1Likes
07-20-2013, 11:30 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ankeny,
IA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 118
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Not Ranked
What can be done to reduce heat in the foot box?
Has anybody has success in reducing the heat in the foot box?
I have heard of titanium header wrap, dynamat and ceramic coating of the headers.
I would be interested in what you all have done and what kind of outcome did you get.
Thank You,
Tag
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07-20-2013, 12:07 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Greer,
SC
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #778 427SC Keith Craft FE 428 stroker
Posts: 243
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Not Ranked
On my ERA, I did everything I could: ceramic coated headers, dynamat in the inside, aluminum skinned insulation on the outside, and extra venting on the inner fender panels (an option from ERA). I think it did a good job, but can't compare very well since I did it as I built the car. For me, the majority of the heat I can't handle comes from the sun beaming down on the black interior! Sitting at a red light in the summer at mid-day is a killer!
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07-20-2013, 01:29 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
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Not Ranked
I'm building my ERA now, so I don't know how effective this will be. But I had ERA install the heat barrier on the front and sides of the footboxes. I also ordered the optional heat shields and vents. Since there is no insulation on the top of the foot boxes, I installed Cool-it (similar to Dynamat) on the inside/tops of the foot boxes, and on the back of the firewall. Lastly, I ceramic coated the headers. I considered putting Cool-it on the inside sides and bottom of the footboxes, but I didn't want to overdo it as Cool-it is heavy and makes the carpet installation more difficult.
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07-20-2013, 02:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Corpus Christi,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Fiberfab, 347 Stroker,dual quad
Posts: 10
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Not Ranked
Heat
I have used the gold thermal tape on my foot boxes and it has helped some, with the temp being 99 - 103f in So. Texas it is helping some. Before the foot boxes were about 130f now around 100f with just the tape. Doesn't sound like much but I can tell the difference. Thinking about building and installing alum heat shields to help. The tape is expensive and you can use up a $30.00-$80.00 roll pretty quick. Speedway has it and there are several other suppliers.
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Trouble1
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07-20-2013, 02:46 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ankeny,
IA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 118
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Not Ranked
thanks for the replies. a 30 degree reduction from the tape is huge.
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07-20-2013, 05:41 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bradenton,
fl
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 29
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Not Ranked
Dynomat on the inside and stainless steel panel on top of inner front footwell with layer of header wrap between the two in the engine bay. Nobody can even tell it is there. Have not had any head problems since.
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07-20-2013, 06:27 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tucson,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJJ
Has anybody has success in reducing the heat in the foot box?
I have heard of titanium header wrap, dynamat and ceramic coating of the headers.
I would be interested in what you all have done and what kind of outcome did you get.
Thank You,
Tag
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Do you have fresh air vents on the foot boxes?
Larry
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Alba gu bràth
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07-20-2013, 06:30 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
Depending on how your car is constructed it makes a big difference on sealing the firewall, door hinges and the sides of the footboxes. Any gaps between the engine bay and the cockpit force huge amounts of heat in the cockpit with the under hood air pressure. I also like the foot box vents to get a little cool air around mine and my passengers feet when you're moving.
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07-20-2013, 07:19 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Tempe,AZ-High Point,NC,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham #684, 482FE, Mike Mccluskey build
Posts: 2,520
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickmate
Depending on how your car is constructed it makes a big difference on sealing the firewall, door hinges and the sides of the footboxes. Any gaps between the engine bay and the cockpit force huge amounts of heat in the cockpit with the under hood air pressure. I also like the foot box vents to get a little cool air around mine and my passengers feet when you're moving.
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I will be sealing the firewall, side of footboxes, etc, but that's all I will do for heat. I actually like a little heat coming through, I don't have a heater and the LADIES are always too cold, so they will appreciate the 600hp fireplace for their feet. I usually drive when there is a little nip in the air anyway...
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PRIDEnJOY
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07-20-2013, 07:20 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Havasu City, AZ,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Arps/Burroughs/Hurricane/428FE
Posts: 1,346
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Not Ranked
The secret is keeping the heat out...heat shields, header wrap, insulating foam to seal all gaps and places hot air can enter. You can also install venting bringing cool air into the foot area.
Good luck, Bill
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Failure is not the outcome, it's not trying.
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07-20-2013, 07:21 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Las Vegas,
NV
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby CSX4005LA, Roush 427IR
Posts: 5,570
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Not Ranked
I had a big problem with this and researched it. You can cut holes into the footboxes and run the same venting as brake vent tubing.
__________________
Cheers,
Tony
CSX4005LA
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07-20-2013, 08:17 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 651
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Not Ranked
When my car arrived as a roller many years ago, the mild steel primary pipes had been Jet-Hot coated.
I installed sheets of Thermo Tec aluminized heat barrier on: the engine-side of the foot boxes, the entire under side of the transmission tunnel, and the street side of the floor.
During subsequent drives there were many times Peggy and I thought the soles of our shoes may have begun to melt.
I ducted the air from the front of car oval ports, to the foot boxes. That helped some but the level of foot box heat was still uncomfortable.
The last remedial action provided the most substantial heat relief. I wrapped the primary pipes with 2" wide Thermo Tec woven tape. What a tremendous reduction in foot box heat and a big gain in comfort.
Its probably very important that my pipes had been ceramic-coated prior to being wrapped. I've read that un-coated mild steel pipes that are wrapped are likely to prematurely deteriorate.
My pipes have been wrapped and re-wrapped several times over a period of 18 years. I last saw them bare 3 years ago. They still appear to be unaffected by the wrap. There wasn't any indication of rust. I couldn't detect evidence of metal fatigue. That's a good thing because I intend to always use header wrap.
David
Last edited by 601HP; 07-20-2013 at 08:38 PM..
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07-20-2013, 08:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Corpus Christi,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Fiberfab, 347 Stroker,dual quad
Posts: 10
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Not Ranked
Heat
My son told me about the gold thermal tape and I wasn't sure it would do anything but it sure seems to help. I like the fresh air duct idea also, need to see about that.
__________________
Trouble1
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07-20-2013, 10:15 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dallas,
tx
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR track car, SL-C track car
Posts: 1,262
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Not Ranked
Not sure you could do this on a completed car, but I added some aluminum heat shields to the outside of the footboxes before the engine was installed. They have about a 3/16" air gap and it really helps keep the heat off the footboxes.
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07-21-2013, 05:43 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Cobra Make, Engine: A&CAuto 460
Posts: 18
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Not Ranked
heat
I Did Two Coats Of Lizard Skin,And A Layer Of Dynamat.Worked Great,Had A Healey Years Ago,Was Determined Not Suffer Like That In The Cobra.
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07-21-2013, 06:48 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,519
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Not Ranked
I used B-Cool mats on my aluminum panels, mostly for dampening but some heat reduction. On my fiberglass foot boxes, in addition to the facotry ERA foil surfaced insulation on the firewall side - I added more to the underside of the foot box (I have undercar exhaust) and the fender side (I assembled the car so I had access). On the inside I used EZ-Cool on the inside of the foot boxes including the top area. EZ-Cool is principally for temperature protection and not primarily a dampening product. It's also very light so using as much as you need isn't going to add by a couple pounds to the car.
My car isn't on the road yet so I don't know the final results but anyway - another suggestion and 2 cents worth.
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07-21-2013, 07:37 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Ellington,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadster 351W, T5, Red & White
Posts: 3,478
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Not Ranked
While I have not no personal experience, past Threads on the subject has also mentioned Duct insulation that can be purchased at Lowe's, Home Depot etc
__________________
2014 Porsche Cayman S, 2014 M-B CLA 45 AMG,
Unkown:"Their sweet lines all but take my breath away, and I desire them as much for their beauty as for their use "
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07-21-2013, 12:54 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
This works great:
http://
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
Last edited by Rick Parker; 07-21-2013 at 12:57 PM..
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07-22-2013, 12:07 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Palma de Mallorca, Spain,
ESP
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary with 482 KC/SO, TKO600,IRS Jag/AMP, 3.54 Salisbury PL,
Posts: 578
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Not Ranked
it is also very important that you plug ALL the holes in the firewall and make them airtight. I had heat coming into the foot well until I discovered that the hole through which the gas pedal linkage went up into the engine bay was letting lots of hot air in. Finally installed a small rubber bellow over the shaft and problem solved.
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Nothing sounds better than a Cobra in a Tunnel !
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07-22-2013, 12:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Waco,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Lone Star Classics / Roush 427 SR
Posts: 280
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Not Ranked
Tag,
To answer your original question, the answer would be to initially buy a Lone Star. I am not aware of anyone ever having excessive foot box heat problems with them.
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Roush #1
Lone Star Classics
Roush Edition #01
Roush 427 SR #444
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