Windshield T bolts for soft top

CowtownCobra · #1 (**permalink**) 08-05-2013, 08:24 AM

I have an old soft top that I want to make a bikini/Bimini top out of. It mounts using some (long lost) T bolts that slide in a channel on top of the windshield frame. Does anyone know the size of these T bolts, or suggestions? I'm guessing most cobra windshields are the same

Luce · #2 (**permalink**) 08-05-2013, 09:36 AM

I adjusted a few 1/4" carriage bolts on the bench grinder to fit.

Rick Parker · #3 (**permalink**) 08-05-2013, 09:39 AM

They end up looking like the head of a common box nail but a little thicker. Get a few a slide them in the windshield slot.

FWB · #4 (**permalink**) 08-05-2013, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CowtownCobra

I have an old soft top that I want to make a bikini/Bimini top out of. It mounts using some (long lost) T bolts that slide in a channel on top of the windshield frame. Does anyone know the size of these T bolts, or suggestions? I'm guessing most cobra windshields are the same

i have made these in the past, for some Excalibur owners.

if you had a sample i could verify they are the same.

the cost was around 20.00 each for stainless steel.....if i remember correctly,
they used 8 of them

Luce · #5 (**permalink**) 08-05-2013, 12:06 PM

HOLY COW!! If they go for that much, I'll order a box of stainless carriage bolts from McMaster Carr and get to grinding.

I only took me 5 minutes each on the bench grinder. You have to flatten 2 sides, then take some off the crown. It ends up looking like a T. Gloves are required as it will get hot in your hands.

FWB · #6 (**permalink**) 08-05-2013, 01:24 PM

well if you consider i am setting up a CNC mill and making 8 pieces out of stainless.

the 20.00 is actually a gift from god.......if you paid a real rate they would be upwards of 50 each.

in all reality i would rather not make them at all. and just say "oh well"
they aren't bolts they are t-nuts, kind of a flanged stand-off.
so go grind on some Chinese mcmaster stuff and have at it....
if you can make them for yourself....kudos......
just so you know if 20 bucks hurts the wallet, you may be owning the wrong car......maybe a 90's Nissan would be more cost effective

mickmate · #7 (**permalink**) 08-05-2013, 06:25 PM

I have a couple of bits and pieces here. Tops & Accessories : Acton Custom Enterprises, Custom Metal for Cobras

Luce · #8 (**permalink**) 08-06-2013, 07:57 AM

Yea, if you're custom machining a T nut from a block of stainless, $20 is cheap. I didn't catch that you made nuts instead of bolts. And I guess the #8 or #10 screw you use would be strong enough to rip the T nut from the frame before it failed, so my 1/4" bolt may be overkill, but it fits nicely and offers plenty of purchase in the track.

But if 8 of them are required and there's a stronger cheaper way to accomplish the same ends, that's the way I'm going. If I was to hire a machinist to make every bolt that on my car, I could have bought a couple of originals for the same cost. Do you also make a solid billet stainless windshield frame with integral brackets so we don't have to screw the crappy brass legs on the commonly available one?

FWB · #9 (**permalink**) 08-06-2013, 12:29 PM

mickmate may....i don't...the only reason i do the nuts is a friend local to me wanted them and had a sample.......so i made a drawing and machined them.
they were an exact copy of what he had.

order a couple hundred and they will be cheaper......but your grandkids will still be selling them to re-coup the cost.

after he got them made....he doesn't even use the top anyway....

you may be able to buy a standoff and whittle the head flat on two sides and accomplish the same thing.....

its tough to make just a few pieces of anything and make money and still offer it at a reasonable cost these days.
its getting to the point that i could rent out my facility and make more than i do manufacturing....at least in PA........

Steve Gallegos · #10 (**permalink**) 08-06-2013, 12:50 PM

The other thing you could do is get two top bows from ERA. They have a pin in on the center end of each bow. The bow pin fits into the opening at the center of the windshield and the curved ends at the side of the window clamp down on clips on the side of the window like a regular top. I made a bimini top that attaches to the window as explained. I used the top brackes I had for the original top and put in side rods to hold the sides from flaping. I attached the back with two strips of material going to the pins that are behind the seat to pin down the real top. It works well to about 50mph, then starts to flap in the middle. I am going to run two stays across from side to side to stablize the middle.