Brake Pads- Superlite & Dynalite calipers

[priobe]

Hello All,

I have a set of the Wilwood Q pads and BP-10. I am not too happy with them on the street, as these were recommended for this application.

I was looking to go with the Hawk Pads - HPS- HB521F.800 - (superlite) and need to research equivalent for the dynalite.

Would like to hear what others are using with this caliper setup on the street.

What I am looking for is more initial bite when cold. The current pads are a race pad that need to be heated to really bite.


BTW, these pads have less than 300 miles on them if anyone is interested once I get my new pads.

Make me an offer.

[bingo2]

Give Gordon a call, I have Wilwood six piston front and four piston rear on my car with Gordon's recommended brake pads and they work really well....Factory Five Builder, High-Performance Ford Automotive Parts – Levy Racing

[vector1]

i'm using the 'a' compound, like em like em like em.

[vector1]

front brake .750 cylinder, rear brake .625 cylinder is std issue jbl. approx. 7/8" thread showing on the left side of adjustable brake bias with the front brake master on the left, rear on the right.

here is a lineup of some of the wilwood offerings. hope this answers your questions.

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - Brake Pad Compound: PolyMatrix A

if you change pads i would contact wilwood about using different compound pads on the discs without resurfacing to see if they are compatible.

[priobe]

Thanks Vector 1

It looks like the "A" pads definitely have a stronger bit at colder temps, making it good for street and maintains a good temp range all the way through.

Especially when comparing to the "E" pads, if I am reading this right. However , wilwood recommends their BP 10, BP 20, then "E" for initial friction on a street pad.

Also, curious why the small MC in the rear increasing pressure when typically your rear does less stopping power.

[vector1]

wilwood might recommend pads on the amount of dust, the 'a's are dusty, so if that is a concern i wouldn't use them. previously i had some of the older 'd' pads, they were hard like rocks, probably what you are experiencing, but clean.

Mr. Hudgins designed the brake system and it works well, maybe he will chime in on his reasoning, i could come up with something, but probably not what he was thinking.

[mdross1]

Dailing in the Willwoods on our car was a hassle at first starting with the pad compound. We also went with a racing compound terrible for the street. With new pads braking was much better but no where near what it should be.
Thought about changing masters instead picked up a pressure gauge then Willwood had me move the actuating pushrods up closer to the brake pedal pivot. Problem solved getting the line pressure up to where it should be without trying to pull the steering column out of the car.
Now this car stops so hard and straight it takes the harnesses to keep you in the seat. Driving it aggressively is an absolute joy.

[priobe]

What was the recommended line pressure for front & Rear that Wilwood suggested?

Regarding Vector 1, with the higher pressure in the rear, I have seen this mostly in dirt track racing. This will give the drifting effect that is needed in this type of racing. However, his bias "7/8" thread showing on the left side of adjustable brake bias with the front brake master on the left" is actually removing the line pressure and engagement for the higher pressures in the rear. Additionally, sometimes times higher brake pressures are needed for rear engine cars, such as the GT 40 since majority of the weight is in the rear.

I was mostly concerned about the brake pad compound, and now curious as to how the type "A" pads work. They seems to be pretty well according the Vector1 and the charts from Wilwood.

[vector1]

actually the bias adjuster was centered, then moved to the rear, more and more til i could feel the effects of the rear brakes, noticeable difference in braking when the rears are working.

SUPERLIGHT IIA Caliper Assy, 1.75" Pistons-(120-3191) RF&LF

Dynalite II Caliper Assy,1.38" Pistons-(120-1057) RR&LR

calipers should be figured into the equation.

[priobe]

So with that being said you added more pressure to the rear and less to the front?

[priobe]

Actually, you are running the same exact calipers that I am. I also, looked into your "A" pads and they have a friction rating of .68, which is extremely high and not considered to be a street pad. Street performance pads have a friction rating of approximately .48, in the case of the "E" pads.

This maybe why you are adjusting your bias to the rear, (main because you can afford to).

This is interesting.

Do you experience any noise and how is the brake dust situation :-).

I am curious, I may try these pads, although they are double the price of other pads.

[bobcowan]

On the track I use a Polymatrix A pad. Good bite from first lap to last. But they do make a lot of dust, and once they're warm they get very noisy. Not a very good stret pad at all.

On the street I started out with a BP-10. I was not impressed. Almost no dust to speak of, and very quiet. But I wasn't impressed with their performance. Now I use the BP-20 on the street. Very quiet, and only a small amount of dust. But performance is markedly improved over the BP-10.

[vector1]

So how does wilwood differentiate between street and track pad? the designation doesn't mean anything to me. i have no squealing on the properly bedded set, the other car will squeal and i haven't had the chance to address the glazing. yes they do cost more, the downside, and they probably wear more. they also dust as bob and i have said, you have to ask yourself what you want. as always, there are tradeoffs. the last time i was at the track, i remember my problem was over-braking, still haven't mastered that. i know the 'd' pads sucked for what i was expecting and/or wanted. i can live with the dust and depends what your rims are finished in how it shows up.

[priobe]

Well wilwood differentiate street / race by the noise, wear on rotor, and friction and temperature.

I was initially interested in the Hawk pads and here we are discussing Wilwood pads. This is good. That's why this form is so great, you get to discuss variables with similar components.

speaking with wilwood they also recommended "H" pads and they also have a BP- 30. I am curious to see any results on the BP 30 compared to the BP 20.

Was there a really big difference from the BP 10 to BP 20. Can you provide a estimated braking increase percentage of initial stopping power.

[vector1]

tire related, not brake pad, disregard.

[mdross1]

[quote=priobe;1283149]What was the recommended line pressure for front & Rear that Wilwood suggested?

That was 20+ yrs ago but seem to recall it was over 900lbs with reasonable pedal pressure. Front to back bias is controlled with adjustable proportioning valve. You want to be sure when panic stopping the rears do not lock up too soon, do not remember them giving me a rear pressure. A call to their techs would be worth a lot it sure was to me. Good Luck

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by priobe

Well wilwood differentiate street / race by the noise, wear on rotor, and friction and temperature.

Maybe this will help

http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl227.pdf