Clutch fork travel - Page 4

blykins · #61 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 04:55 AM

Anything's possible.

This is a collection of a bunch of aftermarket parts coming from 3-4 different manufacturers....

I've had issues with bearing retainers rubbing against fingers before, but yes, since there's another disc in the mix, it's possible the bearing retainer could reach in that far.

lippy · #62 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 10:50 AM

I will double check my clearances, but for now it looks like I damaged my pilot bushing during trans installation and that is causing the problem. I will replace it and reinstall everything carefully and we hope it will be ok.

DanEC · #63 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 11:35 AM

Lippy - have you seen the tip on making a couple 3 or 4 inch dowels for the two upper transmission to bellhousing bolts by cutting the heads off of a couple of long bolts? When the transmission is lifted into place it's hooked on the dowels and carries the weight so it can just be slid into the clutch and pilot bushing with less binding. Besides easing the heavy lifting it protects the clutch disk from bending and helps protect the pilot bushing. I've used it many times on my 66 Corvette and it helps a lot. I think Bob mentions it in his manual also.

lippy · #64 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

Lippy - have you seen the tip on making a couple 3 or 4 inch dowels for the two upper transmission to bellhousing bolts by cutting the heads off of a couple of long bolts? When the transmission is lifted into place it's hooked on the dowels and carries the weight so it can just be slid into the clutch and pilot bushing with less binding. Besides easing the heavy lifting it protects the clutch disk from bending and helps protect the pilot bushing. I've used it many times on my 66 Corvette and it helps a lot. I think Bob mentions it in his manual also.

Dan, yeah that's a good tip and I'm planning on doing it when I reinstall the trans. I didn't do it the first time around because the engine was on a stand so I could just use a floor jack to get the trans lined up to bolt it on. Thanks!

patrickt · #65 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lippy

Dan, yeah that's a good tip and I'm planning on doing it when I reinstall the trans. I didn't do it the first time around because the engine was on a stand so I could just use a floor jack to get the trans lined up to bolt it on. Thanks!

Did you use one of the old fashioned oilite pilot bearings, or one of the jobs that have the roller thingies in them? I'm trying to remember ever being a part of screwing up a pilot bearing with a clutch install and, frankly, I've been involved in breaking a lot of parts. But I can't ever recall doing that.

lippy · #66 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Did you use one of the old fashioned oilite pilot bearings, or one of the jobs that have the roller thingies in them? I'm trying to remember ever being a part of screwing up a pilot bearing with a clutch install and, frankly, I've been involved in breaking a lot of parts. But I can't ever recall doing that.

It's a pilot bushing. Ram part #BU50D. Not my first boneheaded screw-up, not my last. I'll deal with it and move on.

DanEC · #67 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 03:48 PM

More pilot bushing tips that you probably already know but my half-baked advice is cheap.

For removal, filling the crank cavity behind the bushing with a grease gun and then finding a socket that fits pretty snuggly to the hole, putting a short extension on it and tapping it into the hole with a hammer will pop the bushing out by hydraulic pressure.

Putting the new bushing in the deep freeze overnight and they quickly pulling it out and driving it in will ease the interference fit installation.

Good luck.

patrickt · #68 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lippy

It's a pilot bushing. Ram part #BU50D. Not my first boneheaded screw-up, not my last. I'll deal with it and move on.

That's the same one I have in mine -- $7 from Summit. I'm still not clear on how you managed to break it.

lippy · #69 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

That's the same one I have in mine -- $7 from Summit. I'm still not clear on how you managed to break it.

I didn't break it per se, but it is scored on the front surface.

patrickt · #70 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lippy

I didn't break it per se, but it is scored on the front surface.

Post a pic of it if you can.

lippy · #71 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanEC

More pilot bushing tips that you probably already know but my half-baked advice is cheap.

For removal, filling the crank cavity behind the bushing with a grease gun and then finding a socket that fits pretty snuggly to the hole, putting a short extension on it and tapping it into the hole with a hammer will pop the bushing out by hydraulic pressure.

Putting the new bushing in the deep freeze overnight and they quickly pulling it out and driving it in will ease the interference fit installation.

Good luck.

Dan, I've heard that method is effective but Brent recommends using a mechanical bushing puller, so I ordered one (they're cheap). The freezer tip makes a lot of sense too, thanks.

Jerry Clayton · #72 (**permalink**) 02-04-2014, 07:07 PM

when you make up the dowels out of long bolts , make them different lengths so its easier to start the trans sliding over them--its easier to hit one hole at a time

DanEC · #73 (**permalink**) 02-05-2014, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lippy

I didn't break it per se, but it is scored on the front surface.

Lippy - does it look like the beveled part of the input shaft (leading to the splined part) might have been hitting the bushing. That would be an odd thing. Possibly the bushing wasn't fully seated deep enough the first time. Pulling the transmission in with the bolts might have seated the bushing further but left the input shaft in an interference fit with it.

Understand on the puller. I installed the wrong bushing in mine first. I had a metallic one and a non-metallic one and installed the wrong one by not paying attention. I used the grease gun trick for the first time and was amazed at how fast and easily it popped the old one out.

I found my non-metallic bushing (real bronze - magnetic won't stick to it) at NAPA under a heavy duty (HD listing). The price was cheap too.

patrickt · #74 (**permalink**) 02-05-2014, 06:45 AM

I think Brent did the BH alignment, so I'm sure that's spot on. But if this happens again you might want to check the crank bore run-out. Maybe it's out of whack -- that happens, you know....

ERA Chas · #75 (**permalink**) 02-05-2014, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

I think Brent did the BH alignment, so I'm sure that's spot on. But if this happens again you might want to check the crank bore run-out. Maybe it's out of whack -- that happens, you know....

That's a stretch. Since Brent got the bh correct, he'd have the line bore correct too-he built the motor. He'd have seen mixed bearing clearances and corrected with line hone.

patrickt · #76 (**permalink**) 02-05-2014, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

That's a stretch. Since Brent got the bh correct, he'd have the line bore correct too-he built the motor. He'd have seen mixed bearing clearances and corrected with line hone.

Hmmm, ok... uhh Mr. Brent, is Chas correct?

blykins · #77 (**permalink**) 02-05-2014, 08:47 AM

Yep, my stuff gets line honed as a standard, not an option, or a corrective process. Bearing clearances usually vary by no more than a couple tenths.

frdfver · #78 (**permalink**) 02-05-2014, 08:57 AM

Slip fit that new bearing on the input shaft, Check the input shaft, not machined right, scored, end mushroomed-bent, maybe dropped or during shipping.

Paul T.

lippy · #79 (**permalink**) 02-05-2014, 09:15 AM

All good tips, thanks. I'm sure this was me and not Brent, btw.

While I had the trans off and waiting for parts, I checked the fork movement at the input shaft with a dial gauge and I got 0.40", so I should be good to go there. I also adjusted the slave rod and know that the throw out bearing won't be resting on the clutch. I also checked clearances at the end of the input shaft, and at the end of the splines and there doesn't seem to be a problem with either. Hopefully I can get this corrected this week, with a little luck.

lippy · #80 (**permalink**) 02-06-2014, 11:12 PM

I'm totally bummed. I removed the trans, removed the clutch, installed a new pilot bushing, and reinstalled everything, which wasn't super easy by myself. I checked all of the clearances twice, and everything seemed ok. Put it all back together and with a lot of work I got it to align and slide all the way on without using the bolts to pull the trans in. Still, the clutch doesn't release. I'm getting 0.9" of travel at the slave, which is more than enough according to Bob and Doug at ERA, and the tech guys at McLeod. But... when I back the trans bolts out 3/32" and move the trans back on the bolts, it seems to work. I don't think it's an issue of needing an extra amount of travel for the fork, because I preloaded the slave rod by more than that amount, and it still didn't work. Does this imply there is some sort of interference issue with the input shaft?