How much for a cam change? - Page 2

buddyg · #21 (**permalink**) 02-10-2014, 07:18 PM

Good advice guys, I am trying to have the dealer get all this info for me. I probably will leave as is for now, but I'm pretty sure after switching to 18's and better rubber I will want more power. My last Cobra made 530 and posed no issues.

My thought was to have this work done over the Winter and be ready for Spring, but maybe I will just drive it as is this year and decide if I want to make changes and do it next Winter.

MRGEORGE077 · #22 (**permalink**) 02-10-2014, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buddyg

Good advice guys, I am trying to have the dealer get all this info for me. I probably will leave as is for now, but I'm pretty sure after switching to 18's and better rubber I will want more power. My last Cobra made 530 and posed no issues.

My thought was to have this work done over the Winter and be ready for Spring, but maybe I will just drive it as is this year and decide if I want to make changes and do it next Winter.

Very good analysis and dicission!

vatdevil · #23 (**permalink**) 02-10-2014, 07:45 PM

427 Windsor....

Clois Harlan · #24 (**permalink**) 02-11-2014, 09:28 AM

No one has asked how you are going to use your Cobra? That would be my question and unless you intend to do some pretty spirited racing you may want to just leave a good engine alone until you decide to freshen everything up (bearings, etc.).

I have built a 408 stroker that made over 500 hp on the dyno and I can tell you I only needed that hp once and that was at Texas World Speedway which is a big track (almost 3 miles) with a high speed front straight-a-way. I actually ran out of HP on that track.

My suggestion would be to wait and order up a set of alum heads and have them set up for what ever cam, springs, valves. push rods, and roller rockers you choose. Then make sure it is feed correctly with the proper intake and carb. I just did a look back on my build expenses for these parts and I spent over $3000 in parts alone.

Clois Harlan

buddyg · #25 (**permalink**) 02-11-2014, 10:35 AM

It will be for cruising, occasional roll racing, drag maybe once per year and road course once per year. So many different uses.

blykins · #26 (**permalink**) 02-11-2014, 12:46 PM

Unless you're looking for a particular sound, I wouldn't even swap the cam, I'd just throw a set of heads on it. With the pistons that you're running now, a set of AFR 205's would give you a very large bump in power.

GBowman · #27 (**permalink**) 02-11-2014, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

Don't think parts, think money. The more money you spend, the more power you can buy. Tell the engine builders on here how much you can spend and they will make recommendations on how to maximize.

I'll attest to this!

RodKnock · #28 (**permalink**) 02-11-2014, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

You know, Buddy... it sounds to me like what just might really hit the spot is a nice big block in that car of yours. Yep, one with a big, lopey cam, maybe a solid, too -- the vibrations through the air set off car alarms and scare little children away. There's really nothing like a big block.

And Patrick has a faux-FE otherwise known as a 428.

Imagine a stroked 427 with a lopey cam.

Honestly, I'd enjoy it just the way it is.

DAVID GAGNARD · #29 (**permalink**) 02-11-2014, 03:45 PM

According to the info I could find on the crate 392 engine,Ford has discontinued it,but here are the cam specs as per Ford:

##Hydraulic roller camshaft with .563" lift intake and 584" lift exhaust, duration at .050" is 232 degrees intake and 240 degrees exhaust

Not a bad cam,better heads would help it "breathe" better thus making more power and it is already a roller cam......

BTW:I know of at least 2 of these engines in Cobra's and another 2 in Mustangs and all 4 owners are very pleased with them.........

David

buddyg · #30 (**permalink**) 02-11-2014, 05:09 PM

Thanks for the info, I am going to give some thought to better heads. It will be at a shop that can do it and I have a month and a half at least before I can drive it.

Dwight · #31 (**permalink**) 03-09-2014, 08:51 AM

sell your motor and buy a Keith Craft 408.

Dwight

RET_COP · #32 (**permalink**) 03-09-2014, 10:29 AM

To anyone who always asks " why ? when someone wants more HP and states, you can't use it on the street, or, you just burn up the tires etc. -- unless your just offering another opinion which I can understand
This is my thoughts.
The Feel, the feel and the Sound of a motor making 1.3 to 1.5 HP per/ci. It doesn't matter if its a SB or a BB. take those numbers and multiply them to your CI and you always have that Feel and Sound, be it a 289 up to, you name it.
Now I know and understand that there are guys that don't want that or need it and that's OK with me. But to think WHY when someone wants the HP. The advice that it cost more and needs attention and will wear out sooner is valid and may not be understood, I guess, by some, but to think WHY!!!?? an engine at these numbers is not undriveable on the street . I'm pushing 1.4 on my 359 and never have an idling issue, or a low speed buck, or a heating problem, Never. This is just my opinion from experience that's all.

Dwight · #33 (**permalink**) 03-09-2014, 10:49 AM

I agreed with you Ret Cop

I started with 280 rear wheel and now have 400. This summer I will take it back to the dyno and try for a little more, just a little.

Dwight

buddyg · #34 (**permalink**) 03-09-2014, 12:48 PM

How much would my 351 with 4400 miles be worth?

Rocker arms - 1.60 ratio, M-6564-B351 Ignition timing - 32°@ 3000 RPM Rated HP - 430 HP @ 5500 RPM Torque - 450 ft. lb. @ 4000 RPM
M-6007-A392 ENGINE SPEC SHEET
Bore x Stroke - 4.030" x 3.850"
Piston specs - 1.615" compression height, dish + notch volume = 15 +/- .5cc
.912" floating pin w/ single wire lock rings, 1/16", 1/16", 3/16"
Grant CC4000H030 or Speed Pro R9902 +.030 ring pack Nominal compression ratio - 9.7:1 (range is +/- .5)
Deck height - 9.50"
Piston to deck - 000" min. Camshaft - hydraulic roller,
max valve lift
duration @ .050" lift
cam timing @ .006", open
Int. C/L Exh. C/L .566" 108° .576" 116° 232° 240° 29°BTC 77°BBC
Hydraulic roller lifters - M-6500-R302
Cylinder heads - M-6049-X303 w/64cc +/-2cc chamber volume
Valves - 1.94" int. (M-6507-J302) / 1.54" exh. (M-6505-G302)
Valve springs - M-6513-A50 single w/damper, 110 # @ 1.820" installed height,
close 73° ABC
33° ATC
240 # @ 1.400" open

blykins · #35 (**permalink**) 03-09-2014, 01:14 PM

Used engines run about 40-50% of retail value.

I don't see any reason whatsoever to sell the engine and get a new one, just for 16 cubic inches. As we've discussed in the past, it just needs a set of heads and it will wake up big time. The Ford Racing heads are way under par in terms of performance.

Certainly not trying to detract from a KC engine sale, and by all means, if you do a top end swap, call him for the parts....but I don't see where it would be prudent to swap motors unless this one is worn out already.

buddyg · #36 (**permalink**) 03-09-2014, 02:09 PM

What heads would you recommend?

madmaxx · #37 (**permalink**) 03-09-2014, 02:35 PM

Hey I got an idea. Why don't u drive it a couple months once it thaws out up there. Isn't sitting in a hanger. Slow down. If I was going to do an engine swap I would seriously consider a big block. Your engine used, at best IMHO. 3500 to 4000. It may be as good as gold but it's used.

buddyg · #38 (**permalink**) 03-10-2014, 03:10 PM

Yeah I'm planning on just driving it, but already thinking of options for next Winter.

RodKnock · #39 (**permalink**) 03-10-2014, 03:42 PM

As I've mentioned before, drive your Cobra and enjoy it. If your current engine runs flawlessly, doesn't leak and doesn't burn much, if any, oil, then consider yourself lucky.

If you desire, then build a 2nd engine with KC, Brent, Barry, etc. that is designed as a "tried and true" complete unit. Save the money for the heads, labor and the infamous "while you're in there" cost. Combine that savings with the sale of your running engine to help defray the cost of the new engine.