How much for a cam change?

[buddyg]

So the car I am looking at has a pretty mild cam and only 430 hp and doesn't have a lumpy enough cam but it is absolutely flawless and has everything else I want. I am a horsepower junkie and my previous car had 530 hp which was not too much for me. So no 430 hp is plenty posts.

Just looking for how much a cam installed would be and how much hp/tq I can pick up. 50hp & 50tq?


thanks

[RodKnock]

Flat or roller tappet?

[Rick Parker]

$550-$650 incl gaskets, oil, lifters (hyd/solid flat tappet) cam and timing set. Pushrods are optional if needed. Heads not removed. self installed

[buddyg]

Thanks how much to have installed couple hundred?

The motor is Ford Racing 351W/392 cid 'stroker' V8 [rated at 435 hp/ 420 lbs.ft. torque
any recommendations on a cam and how much hp/tq I can pick up?

Hope to be around 500.

[Rick Parker]

I would say 8 hours with engine left in the car, assuming cam can be removed without raising or lowering engine.

[buddyg]

So sounds more like $1000 for cam and install

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by buddyg

Thanks how much to have installed couple hundred?

If your neighbor is doing it in his driveway or garage, then maybe.

Shop rates will vary by geographic location, but it's a 1-2 day job at roughly $100/hour +/-.

[blykins]

You will not gain 70 hp with just a cam swap unless you try and go with something very radical, and it probably won't even happen then.

You need a new set of heads...

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by blykins

You need a new set of heads...

Not knowing what you have on top of your engine now, but cam, heads, intake and carb should be looked at as a "package."

[blykins]

True...

The 392 Ford crate engine used the GT40X heads, which are not known for their performance offerings. The OP could gain about 70-75 hp alone from a head swap. Plus, when you add air flow, it's easier for the camshaft to work, then you get a higher hp peak as well. Kind of a two-fer.

It wouldn't be prudent to *try* to snag 70 hp out of a camshaft swap. You'd end up with a fussy engine that had no bottom end and no top end either, due to the heads hindering the cam's ability.

[madmaxx]

$2400 in labor at shop plus $49.95 in shop supply.
Cam and materials -$500


If I were to do it, I would charge $1200 in labor. If engine needed removed $1400. plus material.

The following has to be removed - valve covers, intake manifold, carburator, distributor, timing cover, oil pan, water pump, alternator, fuel pump, coolant rocker arms, lifters, harmonic balancer, timing chain. All has to be cleaned and reassembled correctly. Need to verify valve train alignment with new cam profile.

I have no idea when mechanics started making the same $$ as engineers but they do. About $100 per hour and materials.

[patrickt]

Buddyg, if you're seriously considering doing something along those lines, then pull the engine yourself and ship it off to Brent. In the long run, that will be the cheapest, and most effective, way to really upgrade your mill.

[buddyg]

So you guys think better heads would be the way to go? Any suggestions for that motor?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by buddyg

So you guys think better heads would be the way to go? Any suggestions for that motor?

Don't think parts, think money. The more money you spend, the more power you can buy. Tell the engine builders on here how much you can spend and they will make recommendations on how to maximize. But before you do that, make sure your engine is running at its tippy-top, performance wise.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by buddyg

So you guys think better heads would be the way to go? Any suggestions for that motor?

Most definitely,I agree with the others on this particular engine a cam change would not get you much HP per dollar spent....you would be disappointed in the gain with the $$$ you'd have to spend to get it...

A better set of heads along with a cam change would be the best HP per dollar spent and you can always sell the GT40X heads and get some money back on them....

As for cam/heads,I'm not sure what your looking in a total HP gain or drivability,you'd have to research that aspect of it before deciding on what parts you want to go with......

The motor is Ford Racing 351W/392 cid 'stroker' V8 [rated at 435 hp/ 420 lbs.ft. torque

I know that is the advertised ratings,but I've seen some magazine testings that showed the actual HP was more in the 475 HP range when they tested a couple of these crate engines for some builds they did....

I'd also try to get the specs on the cam that is currently in your engine and that will give you an idea of how much more cam you might want to go with...

David

[Dwight]

don't forget to look at the intake and carb. Will they support 500 hp?

Dwight

[RET_COP]

I spent almost $600 for retro roller lifters alone. A good three piece billet custom cam will be $350. You can go cheaper though. The guys are right, heads and cam will get some good increases. be prepared for different length push rods too. Man it just never ends does it.

[Dimis]

What's the reason you desire more power?
Is it to break the wheels loose for a "scarier" ride OR to go faster?

You have BFGoodridges for a start, 300hp will break those loose and scare you into the middle of next week. So you can achieve this without spending a cent.

If it is to go faster - then forget the horse power figure figure for now.
Focus your energy on suspension settings and tires (get rid of the BFGoodridges for a start).


This will net you quicker times and allow you to drive faster with more control.

Then once dialed in and you've had some time to get use to your new purchase and how it reacts, you can decide if more HP is worth it to you.

If it is - then GO NUTS, pull the engine and give it to Brent... Rebuild with more cubes, new heads, new intake and cam... and any other go fast bits you like.

This gives you more time to research, and more time to save for said engine rebuild, and avoids band-aid fixes trying to stop gap a problem which may not exist.

This would be my approach
You of course are welcome to choose what you feel is best.

Either way Enjoy!

[eschaider]

If the original builder took the time to choose parts that complimented each other, working together to produce the package you are about to buy, then you might want to step back for a moment and rethink changing cams.

When you get the motor out or perhaps apart for the adventure, you might just discover the internals while adequate for where you are today would be better replaced if you begin stand on the loud pedal with your contemplated modifications.

It would be very easy to see a scenario where you discover you want to replace the rods and pistons when you see what's in there. Shucks you might even want to replace some of those grade oh-so-low OEM fasteners with ARP hardware. Of course while you are in there you might decide to replace other trinkets that you discover along the way like the cast 0.010 under crank or the block that only needed one or two cylinders sleeved to get 'cherry' again - just to mention a few.

Of course you could have a well thought out purpose built engine the original builder carefully selected the components for. If that were the situation you could easily discover you have a domino effect waiting for you, that has a cascade of parts replacements recommended / needed for where you would like to go power-wise.

I think, I would try to get a build sheet from the original builder to discover what you already have. Once you know where you are, you will be much better positioned to both determine where you want to go next and how you intend to get there.


Ed

[patrickt]

You know, Buddy... it sounds to me like what just might really hit the spot is a nice big block in that car of yours. Yep, one with a big, lopey cam, maybe a solid, too -- the vibrations through the air set off car alarms and scare little children away. There's really nothing like a big block.