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06-23-2014, 08:40 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI,
MI
Cobra Make, Engine: StreetBeasts, 331 Stroker
Posts: 149
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Not Ranked
How to solve side pipe rattle....
I purchased a set of side pipes from Shell Valley two years ago when building my kit. I had the pipes aluminum powder over ceramic coated inside and out, so the heat dispersion is tremendous and I am able to even put my hand on one right after a hot run. Unfortunately I think some portion of the inner baffling has come loose on my driver side side pipe, and it's rattling around when the car is at idle. At first it was no problem, but it's starting to make me nuts, and for passers by it makes the car sound more like a rattle trap than a well refined machine. I would like to resolve this but can't think of any way of fixing it other than cutting long thin hole in the bottom of the pipe where few would ever see it, re-welding the guts (praying that this won't mess up the exterior coatings) and then patch and paint the bottom back together.
My other idea is to try to locate the loose baffle by tapping a rubber hammer along the side pipe and then drilling a small hole into the bottom side of the pipe. If using an arch welder with an insulated rod I could potentially slide a rode down the hole, tack the rod to a piece of loose baffle and grind and well off the surface end of the rod, only needing to paint a small spot on the outside of the pipe.
Other ideas may include some use of a camera and high temp silicone down the end of the pipe, might try that first.
Would like to hear suggestions or what other people have done who have had similar problems. Thanks!
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06-23-2014, 08:51 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
Posts: 2,444
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Not Ranked
After you find the area that's loose, Drill a small hole through the pipe and the loose baffle. Drill the hole in the pipe slightly larger. Then pin down the baffle with a sheet metal screw.
__________________
.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain TTU #42
www.RacingtheExocet.com
BDR #1642 - Supercharged Coyote, 6 speed Auto
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06-24-2014, 07:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: jbl
Posts: 2,291
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobcowan
After you find the area that's loose, Drill a small hole through the pipe and the loose baffle. Drill the hole in the pipe slightly larger. Then pin down the baffle with a sheet metal screw.
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This is what I was going to suggest or something similar, run a stainless sheet metal screw up from the bottom to hold things still. Probably cut the tip off so there is a blunt end then try to bottom it on the baffle.
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06-24-2014, 09:55 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Redding,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 1966 Classic Roadster
Posts: 192
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Not Ranked
I had the same problem and tried doing as suggested. Mine was so rotted out inside that the screw simply punched though the insert on the inside. Ended up having to cut if off then band it back together. The chrome band and silver ceramic just doesn't look right. I'm having Classic Chamber Exhaust delivered this Friday. Gong to start over just past the 4 into 1. Heard nothing but good things about the sound of the Classic Chambered exhaust. I'll find out next week
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06-24-2014, 10:02 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Los Angeles,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine: Hurricane Motorsports, 427w
Posts: 439
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by vector1
This is what I was going to suggest or something similar, run a stainless sheet metal screw up from the bottom to hold things still. Probably cut the tip off so there is a blunt end then try to bottom it on the baffle.
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I'm on my second set of Shelly Valley sidepipes for this reason. I've tried this solution a few times on each set with varying results. From experience and discussion with Dana at Shell Valley, the "sweet spot" is to drill and run the screw about 1.5" back from the weld.
The other, and only permanent option is to retro-fit the sidepipes with Classic Chambered inserts.
http://www.classicchambered.com/classic/cobra.html
This is my plan. I'm done with this "whack a mole" game!
__________________
Hurricane Motorsports #1053; 427w
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06-24-2014, 01:21 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Marcos california,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 1989 KCC from South Africa Right Hand Drive
Posts: 1,601
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Not Ranked
Why not just some glass packs.......I believe that's what the originals used......and they are cheap enough to replace .....but there is nothing inside to come loose ...
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06-24-2014, 03:48 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Livermore,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #629, BBM Side Oiler Block, 482ci, Richmond 5 speed
Posts: 852
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Not Ranked
I thought I had a rattle in mine. I was surprised when I took the pipe off for another reason and found that there was a nut rattling around in there. I have no idea how it ended up int here.
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06-24-2014, 11:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: American Fork,
Ut
Cobra Make, Engine: 66 Cobra
Posts: 930
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Not Ranked
__________________
Wayne
"Everything is alive. If you get angry at a vehicle or the trans, it won't fix until you apologize and say you are sorry." "The vehicle always knows what it is doing and what the cause of it's bad feeling is. If you ask it humbly what the problem is, it will tell you. Then you and it will both be happy."
Gil Younger
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06-25-2014, 06:48 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: South Bend,
In
Cobra Make, Engine: B & B 289
Posts: 197
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Not Ranked
coater
Where did you have the side pipes coated? Looking for someone to do just that here in the mid west.
Thanx
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06-25-2014, 08:51 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Plymouth,
MA
Cobra Make, Engine: MidStates, 351C, 4spd, 9"
Posts: 397
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Not Ranked
Hi Red Eye,
Be sure that you do not have any melted nylock nuts holding the whole thing together before you jump into surgery! It may be the whole assy. that is rattling... Sounds obvious, but an easy one to check off before going the distance : )
Mike.
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M. Krause
1.508.944.3368
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06-27-2014, 12:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI,
MI
Cobra Make, Engine: StreetBeasts, 331 Stroker
Posts: 149
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by indianamoon
Where did you have the side pipes coated? Looking for someone to do just that here in the mid west.
Thanx
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Indianamoon; Unfortunately, I can't recommend the shop which did my pipes. What was suppose to be a 4 week process turned into a three month process and horrible communications from the guy doing the work. Additionally he was suppose to clean and grind the welds on the pipes before coating and this did not happen so I have ceramic coated weld splatter in some spots, not cool!
There's a few recommended across the forums here, I would give one of those a try. And I would absolutely recommend doing the full ceramic coating - that is really a nice feature for these cars, my feet don't over heat, the engine compartment is reasonable, and I doubt I would sustain a medical type burn if I were to accidentally brush against one getting out.
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06-27-2014, 12:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI,
MI
Cobra Make, Engine: StreetBeasts, 331 Stroker
Posts: 149
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by krausewich
Hi Red Eye,
Be sure that you do not have any melted nylock nuts holding the whole thing together before you jump into surgery! It may be the whole assy. that is rattling... Sounds obvious, but an easy one to check off before going the distance : )
Mike.
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Thank you for the thoughts, I'll check this out.
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06-27-2014, 12:22 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI,
MI
Cobra Make, Engine: StreetBeasts, 331 Stroker
Posts: 149
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wbulk
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Mine look very similar inside (finally got to use that old dental camera that was laying around to look at the insides of cylinders).
I think I'm going to try to use a screw first and see how that holds.
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06-27-2014, 03:54 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
The center louvered tube expands and contracts at a different rate to the outside body. I have seen them snap the inners at one end and rattle. If it's at the back you can almost get a MIG stinger in there on some of them.
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06-27-2014, 05:55 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: American Fork,
Ut
Cobra Make, Engine: 66 Cobra
Posts: 930
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Not Ranked
This is a reason expensive coatings on side pipes can be very risky.
__________________
Wayne
"Everything is alive. If you get angry at a vehicle or the trans, it won't fix until you apologize and say you are sorry." "The vehicle always knows what it is doing and what the cause of it's bad feeling is. If you ask it humbly what the problem is, it will tell you. Then you and it will both be happy."
Gil Younger
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06-27-2014, 08:09 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Holderness, NH, US of A,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX 4772 old iron FE
Posts: 5,499
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Not Ranked
I like VHT, cheap and easy to apply and touch up. Follow the instructions for heat cycles and it lasts really well.
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06-28-2014, 05:07 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,519
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by indianamoon
Where did you have the side pipes coated? Looking for someone to do just that here in the mid west.
Thanx
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For ceramic coating I've used NitroPlate in TN. They are known for nice work. I did have a problem with the semi-flat black I had applied to my headers but they re-did them and took care of the problem.
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06-28-2014, 07:39 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Grand Rapids, MI,
MI
Cobra Make, Engine: StreetBeasts, 331 Stroker
Posts: 149
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
For ceramic coating I've used NitroPlate in TN. They are known for nice work. I did have a problem with the semi-flat black I had applied to my headers but they re-did them and took care of the problem.
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I've found that to be the trick, just work with a firm which will back their service. In my case, I was unhappy because they had use ceramic beads to blast the side pipes before coating. Ok, good. What was not so good is how about 500 of the ceramic beads shot out of the pipes when we first started the engine. They had failed to shake the beads out of the baffles. Can you imagine if one of those beads through back pressure or some act of god gotten tossed into a cylinder? An 800 dollar ceramic job would have killed a 20K engine. So yeah, I was not exactly all smiles....
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