Intro, cautionary tale

[Tim7139]

Folks, this is my first post, however the content was not exactly planned. It is somewhat of a heads up as well.
I just took delivery of a lovely Superformance Cobra, very well taken care of, 6-7 years old, less than 5000 miles. Never tracked, beat, etc. really pristine. The deal went well, seller a real gentleman, etc., etc.
I have literally 15 miles on this tonight and have my son out for his first ride. Out on highway, run through the gears, back home and about 1/4 mile from home punch it a bit and.......BANG, something let's go in the rear end. Push it home, Jack it up, look around and find, to my wonderment, the drive side inner CV flange is flopping around and the bang was the single bolt left out of the eight that should be tight had sheared. I mean, I know these cars are well built but good God 4300 miles on the car.
I apologize for maybe sounding a bit cranky, but my heart rate is finally coming down and I figure that a heads up is in order. You better check those flanges, inner and outer boys, just to be safe.
I'll check my local fastenall in the AM but anybody got a source for these things if I come up short?

[*13*]

What type of bolt was it that sheared?

[Ron61]

First, congratulations on getting the Cobra and you will enjoy it in spite of the start you have had.

Second, I always check all bolts on my whole car at least once a month and when I was racing after every race as these cars do have a tendency to vibrate them loose at times. So I just got in the habit of checking everything and even the torque on the intake and other bolts as they will loosen once in a while. After doing it a few times, you can do it in a few minutes most of the time.

Ron

[Blas]

While I totally agree that periodic checking of various bolts is a great idea, I don't think you need to check all of them monthly. (EXCLUDING WHEEL SPINNERS) Once a particular connection has repeatedly checked ok, I think it's safe to change to a once or twice a season checking procedure. Unless as was mentioned, you are racing the car.
Since the car is new to you a complete inspection is a must. I would be sure to check the driveshaft bolts, caliper mounting bolts and CV joints at minimum. Many bolts have witness paint applied from the factory after they are installed and verified. I have not heard of any issues with shock absorber bolts but the rear upper shock mounts MUST be checked. There is an upgrade for the mounts available - Report back a description of what you have installed (color and shape) and I can tell you if you have the originals or the upgraded top shock mounts. (Or just send me a photo of one side) Other things to check are the roll hoop mounting bolts, and if you have a torque wrench, the intake bolts. Inspect your valve covers and pan for leaks, but don't crank down these bolts, even pressure here is the key as the gasket makes the best seal when evenly compressed. I would only do a visual inspection on header bolts. Sway bar bolts should be fine but do inspect the bolt at the rear of the differential. Engine mounts and trans mounts - check once a year. Keep an eye on your problematic CV joint for a while after correcting the problem. Feel free to contact me if you have questions. Others will chime in if I missed any important bolts I'm sure.

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by Tim7139

Folks, this is my first post, however the content was not exactly planned. It is somewhat of a heads up as well.
I just took delivery of a lovely Superformance Cobra, very well taken care of, 6-7 years old, less than 5000 miles. Never tracked, beat, etc. really pristine. The deal went well, seller a real gentleman, etc., etc.
I have literally 15 miles on this tonight and have my son out for his first ride. Out on highway, run through the gears, back home and about 1/4 mile from home punch it a bit and.......BANG, something let's go in the rear end. Push it home, Jack it up, look around and find, to my wonderment, the drive side inner CV flange is flopping around and the bang was the single bolt left out of the eight that should be tight had sheared. I mean, I know these cars are well built but good God 4300 miles on the car.
I apologize for maybe sounding a bit cranky, but my heart rate is finally coming down and I figure that a heads up is in order. You better check those flanges, inner and outer boys, just to be safe.
I'll check my local fastenall in the AM but anybody got a source for these things if I come up short?

What is the SPO number of the car? The bolts will depend upon the differential used. If it is the Ford 8.8 the bolts are available from Ford and have a locking compound on them so so PROPERLY torqued they should stay fine.

[Tim7139]

Originally Posted by Blas

While I totally agree that periodic checking of various bolts is a great idea, I don't think you need to check all of them monthly. (EXCLUDING WHEEL SPINNERS) Once a particular connection has repeatedly checked ok, I think it's safe to change to a once or twice a season checking procedure. Unless as was mentioned, you are racing the car.
Since the car is new to you a complete inspection is a must. I would be sure to check the driveshaft bolts, caliper mounting bolts and CV joints at minimum. Many bolts have witness paint applied from the factory after they are installed and verified. I have not heard of any issues with shock absorber bolts but the rear upper shock mounts MUST be checked. There is an upgrade for the mounts available - Report back a description of what you have installed (color and shape) and I can tell you if you have the originals or the upgraded top shock mounts. (Or just send me a photo of one side) Other things to check are the roll hoop mounting bolts, and if you have a torque wrench, the intake bolts. Inspect your valve covers and pan for leaks, but don't crank down these bolts, even pressure here is the key as the gasket makes the best seal when evenly compressed. I would only do a visual inspection on header bolts. Sway bar bolts should be fine but do inspect the bolt at the rear of the differential. Engine mounts and trans mounts - check once a year. Keep an eye on your problematic CV joint for a while after correcting the problem. Feel free to contact me if you have questions. Others will chime in if I missed any important bolts I'm sure.

Now that I've had a fair scare, rear end is up on stands and I'm going through everything from the gearbox back. After the CV flange issue everything will be checked/tightened and paint marked.
The upper shock mounts are OEM and are fine, will be likely fitting uprated R/T 4 bolt brackets first and probably the swaybay kit.

[Tim7139]

Originally Posted by Mark IV

What is the SPO number of the car? The bolts will depend upon the differential used. If it is the Ford 8.8 the bolts are available from Ford and have a locking compound on them so so PROPERLY torqued they should stay fine.

It's a Dana and they're 10mmx1.25 grade 12.9. The sheared one was really fun to drill out and get an extractor to bite but I got it out and everything cleaned up. Even with new carbide drills it took a while.

[CowtownCobra]

These are high maintenance vehicles. Get used to it

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Tim7139

... and paint marked.

Yep, everywhere.... The Joy of Torque Seal

[Tim7139]

Originally Posted by CowtownCobra

These are high maintenance vehicles. Get used to it

I've owned varied high maintenance and high performance vehicles. This is not a question of maintenance IMHO this is a question of somebody seriously dropping the ball.

[STEVE-O]

Originally Posted by Tim7139

I've owned varied high maintenance and high performance vehicles. This is not a question of maintenance IMHO this is a question of somebody seriously dropping the ball.

Where should I be looking if I wanted to doublecheck for this issue on my car? Possible to post a pic of the problem?
Thanks

[Tim7139]

Originally Posted by STEVE-O

Where should I be looking if I wanted to doublecheck for this issue on my car? Possible to post a pic of the problem?
Thanks

Get the rear end up in the air and pull the wheels. At either end of the half shaft is a CV joint with an 8bolt flange. This for Superformance, Jag systems mount up somewhat differently.
The wishbone hardware is all paint marked but flanges were not, needless to say, after I replace and/or retorque all the flange bolts, they will get torque seal marked.

[G-Pete]

Our intros here go usually so: Hi I'm Tim and will become an addict....

Chorus: Hi Tim, you are already!!! hahahaha

[G-Pete]

Originally Posted by CowtownCobra

These are high maintenance vehicles. Get used to it

It depends on how you build that car (or who build it). Easy simple cars, not much magic to it.

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by Tim7139

It's a Dana and they're 10mmx1.25 grade 12.9. The sheared one was really fun to drill out and get an extractor to bite but I got it out and everything cleaned up. Even with new carbide drills it took a while.

Don't laugh, but your local ACE Hardware should carry what you need.

As for maintaining the car, twice a year, no matter who's (manufacturer wise) Cobra replica I owned, twice a year I used to go through it from top to bottom. The one time I did not I had a similar incident with the driveshaft to differential flange bolts that left me stranded 4 miles from home on a 95 degree, high humidity day, baking in the sun.........


Bill S.





Bill S.