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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 04-12-2015, 07:51 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: 66 COBRA FE 427 /4SP. (HCS Coupe w/ 408 Stroker and TKO 600 -sold)
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Default Need some hyd TO brg advise

I have a 427 FE with a Ram Clutch and PP w a Lakewood bell housing and a TKO 500 transmission. My problem is I have tried a Tilton 6100 brg that does not work because of the length of its extension. For the past 10 or so yrs I have used McLeod but I couldn't get in touch w anyone when I called.

? DOES anyone have a McLeod part number for an internal throw out bearing that works in this application? I only want to pull my engine and trans one more time.

Thanks.

Clois Harlan
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:15 AM
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Is there anyone running a mcleod internal TOB these days? I know they were acquired by Holley or someone and Red is no longer with McLeod. Has the quality gone down that much?
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:52 AM
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Clovis,
Try Modern Driveline

Maurice
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Old 04-13-2015, 02:42 PM
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I can say I have been waiting 2.5 months now for a part from McLeod. The distributor says they have been on back order a lot longer than that. Every other week it is "2 more weeks".

I am going to get the part, draw it up in CAD, and have it made locally and sell them for half the price.
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Old 05-06-2015, 11:34 AM
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I have some experience with the McLeod throw out bearings.
While I like the theory, the ones I have used (mine, a friends Backdraft, and a one in Dads 57 Chevy) were a pain in the butter milk.
These units replaced the front bearing retainer of the trans. You must measure for and order the correct length piston or your T/O bearing will run out of stroke before it disengages the clutch (or reaches it at all)
And, when you go to remove the trans, the lines must be disconnected. Not only is it messy, but you must bleed the system again!

Doing it again, I wont re-use it.


Jason
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Old 05-06-2015, 05:56 PM
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I have a Mcleod throw out bearing with a TKO 3550 transmission. The McLeod number on the box is a 16031.

Phil
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Old 05-06-2015, 07:21 PM
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Default McLeod

Clois
When you and I spoke, I don't recall if you said you have the short input shaft or not. I think my setup (short input shaft, no transmission spacer) is similar to yours, except I am using the diaphragm style ram clutch, not the finger type.

The distance from the bellhousing face to the fingers is 2.52" I finally got to someone at McLeod. Spoke to Billy at McLeod and he says to use their #1364 and it will work. But I don't have the warm fuzzy's.

From their site, appears to be a good choice but I don’t have a lot of confidence in them or it. Asked him for the effective area of the piston in the bearing and he couldn't tell me. Gave me a suggested master cylinder size and stroke (3/4” x 1”), claims that will generate enough fluid to operate clutch. Says it needs 11cc to move .7” When I do the math on this, it doesn't work out. I challenged him on this and he said, “Oh, doesn't matter, you have to pump the pedal a couple times, then it works”. I am an engineering type so the numbers are important – have trouble with “guesses”
I have been told by another forum user that the #1364 works - I 'm just not ready to invest $400 to find out.

I have a copy of their installation instructions, if you want it.

I have tried the Ram unit and it doesn't work - too tall. Spoke to the guys at Tilton and they told me up front their's won't work on a short shaft version - it's too tall.

Looked at the Exedy unit, but couldn't find any dimensions to determine if it would fit.

Paul
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