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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 11:14 AM
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If and when the time comes with my Aviad, I will be thinking seriously about the reinforcing "bars" to even the pressure against the gaskets and avoid the "pinching" effect at the bolt locations.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 11:30 AM
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I've patterned and cut some pan reinforcements for a BB Chev in the past - but just for the corner locations. Doing the whole rail with what I have in the garage would be a big job. It would be nice if someone with a CNC machine or something could work up some patterns for some typical pans and market them.

Mickmate - are you out there??
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 02:29 PM
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I think I'll remove the pan, get some stainless bar, maybe 3/8" or 1/2" wide by 3/16" thick, lay it out over the pan rail, weld the joints, and drill. I don't think it would take me more than 2 hours.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy View Post
I know the pan gasket is leaking because it's not only at the rear. It could be the main seal too, though I think the inside of the bell is dry and I understand that to mean the main isn't leaking.
I can't see oil in the bell housing but I am pretty sure my rear main is leaking.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy View Post
I don't think it would take me more than 2 hours.
Well, you are way faster than I would be!
Send some pics if you do it.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy View Post
I think I'll remove the pan, get some stainless bar, maybe 3/8" or 1/2" wide by 3/16" thick, lay it out over the pan rail, weld the joints, and drill. I don't think it would take me more than 2 hours.
Any excuse to get that welder out!
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 02:54 PM
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Any excuse to get that welder out!
Absolutely. I'm a welding fool!
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 03:18 PM
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Always show your work.
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:11 PM
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Yes please - show us what you come up with.

Good luck.
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Old 01-13-2016, 05:11 PM
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May take me a couple of weeks, but you'll see it.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy View Post
May take me a couple of weeks, but you'll see it.
I think you should buy a seasoned iron block, then carefully disassemble your existing engine and transfer each part to the new iron block. That's the only hope you have for dealing with your leaks. Either that, or just put pie tins under the drips.
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Old 01-13-2016, 07:03 PM
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Here are a few pictures of what we came up with to try and help with the leaking oil pans.

601 HP HiTech Mod's
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2016, 09:11 PM
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Here are a few pictures of what we came up with to try and help with the leaking oil pans.

601 HP HiTech Mod's
Post 40 in the referenced thread for the time limited. I bet that does cinch the pan gasket up tight - very impressive.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:43 AM
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Post 40 in the referenced thread for the time limited. I bet that does cinch the pan gasket up tight - very impressive.
Yes, VERY impressive. I have a pan from Armando's and I like it, but the pan rails could use something like that as they'd bend or distort far too easily without similar reinforcement.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2016, 09:17 PM
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Default Studs

I started using set screws for valve cover studs, after seeing them on a friend's race car. You don't really need high strength ARP studs with coarse/fine threads, and the coarse threads allow you to tighten them with more friction on the nut w/out collapsing the gasket.

I used to use ARP studs on the pan, but they kept backing out. I don't recall what I have on the pan right now. I know I tried using studs with silicone on the threads, but that was a long time ago, and I haven't been under that car in a while, so I just don't remember. The Cobra has bolts from a previous owner.

Sorry to ramble, just thought I'd provide a data point on studs vs. bolts.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2016, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55 View Post
Yes, VERY impressive. I have a pan from Armando's and I like it, but the pan rails could use something like that as they'd bend or distort far too easily without similar reinforcement.
Is that part available?
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2016, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detroit Bill View Post
Is that part available?
Sure is.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2016, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detroit Bill View Post
Is that part available?
Detroit Bill: Are you asking about the pan or the reinforcing rails? If it's the rails I'd like to find the p/n as well!

cobrakiwi: You said it is - can you provide p/n for rails? Puhleez? BTW, my engine is 460 CID (385 series).
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Last edited by cycleguy55; 01-15-2016 at 09:43 AM..
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2016, 10:05 AM
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Yes, I am talking about the stainless reinforcing rail.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 01-15-2016, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55 View Post
Detroit Bill: Are you asking about the pan or the reinforcing rails? If it's the rails I'd like to find the p/n as well!

cobrakiwi: You said it is - can you provide p/n for rails? Puhleez? BTW, my engine is 460 CID (385 series).
We custom make these to order
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