CSX 4145, finally getting sorted out

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Me either, but some folks like to go for it. Love the BB old school lettering for sure though. There are some nice Avon stencils with big Avon lettering as well.

But the big "GOODYEAR EAGLE" lettering is NOT "old school" but only dates to the 80s!

This is "old school"

[SFSDFGT]

comment deleted

[SFSDFGT]

Just an update- got a new fuel tank made from CobraKiwi (Craig), and he also made me nice new, more correct-looking fuel lines, fuel log, oil cooler lines, and has been helping me sort out some other issues with the brakes. He has been an absolute pleasure to work with- I HIGHLY recommend him to anybody needing work done, or parts, for their cobra. So nice to be driving my cobra again, better than ever! Now I just need to get my new tires on...

[Blue66]

CobraKiwi (Craig) is a great guy to deal with !!! Very nice quality work.

[cobrakiwi]

Thanks guys for the positive comments, I really do appreciate it.

I have never seen a fuel tank so degraded as 4145, it is a wonder the car ran at all.
It was my pleasure working with you Clint, your Cobra is stunning!

[Luke427]

But the big "GOODYEAR EAGLE" lettering is NOT "old school" but only dates to the 80s!

Maybe but it looks so cool

Hi Cobrakiwi - I've had such issue with a tank and fuel line on a previous track car. Long story short I realized at some point that gas containing high levels of toluol had been used in the car and as a result, tank foam as well as rubber were decomposing and filling filters all the time.

[Blas]

If and when you add the puller fan(s) be sure to make a totally new wiring circuit. Do not splice them into the pusher fan circuit. Use relays to feed the power to the fans and perhaps add a manual fan switch and fuses. Feel free to contact me if you need guidance.

[SFSDFGT]

Originally Posted by Blas

If and when you add the puller fan(s) be sure to make a totally new wiring circuit. Do not splice them into the pusher fan circuit. Use relays to feed the power to the fans and perhaps add a manual fan switch and fuses. Feel free to contact me if you need guidance.

Done! But thank you. Yep, new circuit with separate relay, activated by thermocouple switch. But I did put a manual switch on my front pusher fans. And when my puller fan kicks on, the airflow causes the pusher fans to spin, anyway.

Only problem now is my dang Girling brakes. They just do not seem to clamp down with proper force on the rotor. It requires an inordinate amount of brake pedal force to slow the car down decently. New masters, new (and softer) brake pads, brake fluid change and gallons bled through the system, and they are only marginally better than before. Only option left that I know of is to try having the calipers rebuilt, a suggestion by Cobrakiwi. But no guarantee that would fix the problem, either. But I'm done working on the car for the time being. Car season is almost over in South Dakota, and I want to enjoy this thing a little bit before the snow starts flying.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by SFSDFGT

Done! But thank you. Yep, new circuit with separate relay, activated by thermocouple switch. But I did put a manual switch on my front pusher fans. And when my puller fan kicks on, the airflow causes the pusher fans to spin, anyway.

Only problem now is my dang Girling brakes. They just do not seem to clamp down with proper force on the rotor. It requires an inordinate amount of brake pedal force to slow the car down decently. New masters, new (and softer) brake pads, brake fluid change and gallons bled through the system, and they are only marginally better than before. Only option left that I know of is to try having the calipers rebuilt, a suggestion by Cobrakiwi. But no guarantee that would fix the problem, either. But I'm done working on the car for the time being. Car season is almost over in South Dakota, and I want to enjoy this thing a little bit before the snow starts flying.

Two additional options, unless I'm missing something.

1. Buy a set of the billet aluminum repro Giirling calipers from Kirkham.
2. Buy a set of Wilwood calipers.

[twobjshelbys]

What size is your master cylinder?

Note, the Cobra IS a man's car. Braking is not as easy as you might think it ought to be. Remember the 0-100-0 test? Well, most of thta was braking and most of that was two feet on the brake pedal.

[SFSDFGT]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

Two additional options, unless I'm missing something.

1. Buy a set of the billet aluminum repro Giirling calipers from Kirkham.
2. Buy a set of Wilwood calipers.

Poor choice of wording by me. Not my ONLY option. But I would like to try and keep the original style brakes. I know it is only a continuation car, but it is an alloy one, and I like the idea that it was optioned this way. I just went through the trouble and expense of swapping out a bunch of other "non-original" looking components (fuel log, blue/red anodized fittings, etc.) I have no interest in going with Wilwoods. However, I didn't realize Kirkham had repro Girlings. I might look into that. Thanks!

[SFSDFGT]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

What size is your master cylinder?

Note, the Cobra IS a man's car. Braking is not as easy as you might think it ought to be. Remember the 0-100-0 test? Well, most of thta was braking and most of that was two feet on the brake pedal.

IIRC, I had a 3/4" on the rear and a 1" or maybe 7/8" on the front, and we went with down to a smaller 3/4" master on the front for more pressure. I think I now have 3/4" masters on both the front and rear. We replaced them both.

I know what you are saying, But I have many cars with manual brakes. Most of them manual drum brakes. This Cobra just doesn't seem right. With the size of these brakes, and the extremely light weight of my alloy cobra, it just simply should stop better.

[1ntCobra]

Originally Posted by SFSDFGT

Poor choice of wording by me. Not my ONLY option. But I would like to try and keep the original style brakes. I know it is only a continuation car, but it is an alloy one, and I like the idea that it was optioned this way. I just went through the trouble and expense of swapping out a bunch of other "non-original" looking components (fuel log, blue/red anodized fittings, etc.) I have no interest in going with Wilwoods. However, I didn't realize Kirkham had repro Girlings. I might look into that. Thanks!

I got some pictures of them back in August. David said they can send them out to be tumbled (as seen on the right side of the bottom picture) so they look correct for cars driven in vintage races.

Kirkham Motorsports Tour August 2016

[SFSDFGT]

Originally Posted by 1ntCobra

I got some pictures of them back in August. David said they can send them out to be tumbled (as seen on the right side of the bottom picture) so they look correct for cars driven in vintage races.]

Cool- thank you! I will have to see how much they are. I was told $160 apiece to have my current ones rebuilt, and lifetime warranty. I wish I knew for certain this would fix the problem, but I really don't know what else it could be.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by SFSDFGT

Poor choice of wording by me. Not my ONLY option. But I would like to try and keep the original style brakes. I know it is only a continuation car, but it is an alloy one, and I like the idea that it was optioned this way. I just went through the trouble and expense of swapping out a bunch of other "non-original" looking components (fuel log, blue/red anodized fittings, etc.) I have no interest in going with Wilwoods. However, I didn't realize Kirkham had repro Girlings. I might look into that. Thanks!

No worries.

The billet aluminum Girling calipers are a $5,000 option when you purchase a Kirkham with the original style suspension. So, rebuilding your calipers for $160 is a more cost effective solution, assuming it works.