What are thoughts on a home built FFR being worth $50k? This looks like a great build (received detailed build pics from seller) and cleanly finished however, based on recent conversations around factory built cars running 40-50k, I'm thinking its low-mid 40's. And that's before seeing/inspecting in person. Unless absolute pristine build with top of the line drive train and well known professional builders in the process, have you seen FFR builds go this high?
Thanks
Cobra Make, Engine: 70 Shelby convertible, ERA-289 FIA, 65 Sunbeam Tiger, mystery Ford powered 2dr convertible
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Originally Posted by chrisd0729
What are thoughts on a home built FFR being worth $50k? This looks like a great build (received detailed build pics from seller) and cleanly finished however, based on recent conversations around factory built cars running 40-50k, I'm thinking its low-mid 40's. And that's before seeing/inspecting in person. Unless absolute pristine build with top of the line drive train and well known professional builders in the process, have you seen FFR builds go this high?
Thanks
I'm thinking at most a $30,000-$35,000 car, no heater (heated seats only work so far to warm your body), no wipers, no top, fake knock off wheels, no mention of an IRS rear end. I could see someone paying a builder 50K to build such a car (at a retail level), but for $50,000 on the secondary market, you can get a higher quality car such as a SPF, or ERA with all of the trimmings (and a 427 sideoiler if that is what you wanted) including an IRS. Or a fairly fresh, slightly used Backdraft with a hot small block and all of the other usual bells and whistles I mentioned above.
If it was my money, I'd be passing this one over at it's current price point.
Bill S.
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Depends on where you live and state regulations. In NY, you need a defroster to pass inspection. If you live in the north, a heater extends the driving season.
Cobra Make, Engine: Building 289 Lemans / FFR mkIV chassis w/ Bruce Chervenak
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Originally Posted by 1795
Depends on where you live and state regulations. In NY, you need a defroster to pass inspection. If you live in the north, a heater extends the driving season.
"Inspection?... Inspection?... C'mon man we talkin' 'bout Inspection.... This is Florida main... You talkin' 'bout Inspection... "
I drove my Cobra a lot at night in the summer and the defroster was a must. A change in the temperature when driving late in the day would cause condensation on the inside of my windshield.
I live in North Alabama and drove my Cobra to Ohio at night for several years for the London Cobra Show. A heater / defroster is necessary.
Dwight
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Drove my Cobra in the pouring rain last evening (with the ragtop on, 'natch) and NEEDED the defroster. Worked the charm. So glad mine (SPF) has one....and a heater.
It's interesting what some members find valuable. For instance, I wouldn't even want a pin drive car, others think it's a must have. I prefer an aftermarket (such as Dart) block, others want an original type factory block.
Back to the OP's question, I have seen a few F5's go for that much, but not with those components. I have seen some pretty crazy prices at used car dealerships, but they usually leave lots of room for negotiation in the price. Cheers.
Nicely done build. Warmed over SBF engine, middle of the road optioned.
Realistically should be priced around $40k and accept any offer close to that.
In order to be worth north of $40k, I would expect IRS, real pin drive wheels and an FE in the engine bay.
Just sayin!
I think you're accurate. A very nice car. $30,000-$35,000 seems too cheap to me. $45,000-$50,000 is searching for the ignorant buyer. Seller would be lucky to find someone to buy it for above $40K. A very good deal at $35,000. So, high $30's is probably where I think it should sell.
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
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Originally Posted by patrickt
And why would that be?
Possibly for the same reason a lot of 63 - 67 Corvette owners have sworn off KO wheels - too many instances of them falling off and causing a lot of damage due to improper installation and owners/mechanics not paying attention to what they are doing. They even market fake Corvette KOs now that bolt on and the factory cone and spinner conceal the lug nuts - can't tell them apart.
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
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Originally Posted by DanEC
Possibly for the same reason a lot of 63 - 67 Corvette owners have sworn off KO wheels - too many instances of them falling off and causing a lot of damage due to improper installation and owners/mechanics not paying attention to what they are doing. They even market fake Corvette KOs now that bolt on and the factory cone and spinner conceal the lug nuts - can't tell them apart.
I don't understand -- is there something wrong with the FFR pin-drives? As opposed to the six pin jobs on say, my ERA, RodKnock's Kirkham, etc.?
Possibly for the same reason a lot of 63 - 67 Corvette owners have sworn off KO wheels - too many instances of them falling off and causing a lot of damage due to improper installation and owners/mechanics not paying attention to what they are doing. They even market fake Corvette KOs now that bolt on and the factory cone and spinner conceal the lug nuts - can't tell them apart.
I owned a '66 Corvette convertible for a very long time. I bought and installed the KO's, but they came loose often enough that I removed them and sold them. The Corvette KO manufacturers may have changed the wheels over the year, so I'm not familiar with today's product, but there's no comparison to the pin drive Trigo wheels on my Kirkham. While I don't drive thousands of miles every year, they've not come loose. They're as tight as the day I bought the car. And I have no fear of it either.
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Thoughts on an FFR car at $50k
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