Frustrated and depressed with this build

[Dwight]

Bill I have a buddy that will not latch his trunk. I've known him for 16 years and his trunk has never been latched or locked. Drives a lot. So a loose trunk may not be a problem.
I've left my unlatched and drove it. I did hit a large bump and heard the trunk lid bounce. I pulled over and latched mine.

Dwight

[AC Ventura]

Originally Posted by Bill D

The next issue is how high do I make the striker? I can't crawl in the trunk after the body is on to measure, so I'm trying,to,calculate it by measuring all the pieces (trunk, hinge, body, etc.). And where do I mount the striker? What does it need to look like? Will it clear the inside of the trunk lid?

If I attach the striker to the back of the frame it will hit the latch arm and trunk lid. If I mount it to the trunkpan in the trunk then the striker has to be really long and will catch on things

Bill,
When you cannot see the amount of clearance between two shutting surfaces, like the hood and air cleaner for example, I always use a ball of Plasticine (modeling clay). If you make one surface slippery, it will adhere to the other and give a clear indication of what's going on. The same solution will show you where the striker aperture needs to be.

[AC Ventura]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Ok. After much thinking, I think I've come up with a solution to the trunk latch striker. I've attached a sketch of my idea. The striker would be made from either .080 or .125 mild steel and made in three pieces. The center piece would be notched and then bent 90 deg at each end. The two end pieces would be welded to the center piece, and slotted holes added for adjustment. Height could be managed with shim washers. It would be mounted to the frame with #6 sheet metal screws to the frame. I would still have to clearance the body and the trunkpan.

the latch arm would swing down thru the notch and push against the plate creating sufficient tension to keep the trunk lid closed

The sides on this bracket, don't need to be 90 degrees, so you can bend it out of strip steel, with no need to weld. If feasible, try cardboard first, check and then copy that.

[mrmustang]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Ok. After much thinking, I think I've come up with a solution to the trunk latch striker. I've attached a sketch of my idea. The striker would be made from either .080 or .125 mild steel and made in three pieces. The center piece would be notched and then bent 90 deg at each end. The two end pieces would be welded to the center piece, and slotted holes added for adjustment. Height could be managed with shim washers. It would be mounted to the frame with #6 sheet metal screws to the frame. I would still have to clearance the body and the trunkpan.

the latch arm would swing down thru the notch and push against the plate creating sufficient tension to keep the trunk lid closed

Bill,

Over the years, I've felt your frustrations many times, every time I've purchased an unfinished FFR or Contemporary where some of the parts are MIA. However, I also feel the satisfaction of being able to come up with unique solutions to the problems each time, as you will too. This one looks quite feasible, perhaps ask Dave Kirkham to mill it out of a throw away piece of billet .........

Bill S.

[Bill D]

After giving it additional thought, and to find a simpler solution, I've sent an email to Bruce for advice.

[Bill D]

Another possible option is to notch the body as shown by the green rectangular line in the photo below. Then make an aluminum plate, bent 90 degrees, slotted and riveted to add some structural support. This assumes the latch arm swings below the body (according to my calculations it does)



This is now my goal

[Antny]

Can't you simply modify the latch arm to make it longer?

[Bill D]

Originally Posted by Antny

Can't you simply modify the latch arm to make it longer?

No it can't

[dallas_]

Dang Bill. These things are supposed to be fun.

If it's not, get rid of it and lose the stress. Life's too short.

[Frank Messina]

Bill,
Never mind. I hadn't seen the last photo.

Frank

[Three Peaks]

Bill,
You are on the right track with the slot AND the raised piece as described. Of the originals I've seen and I believe the Kirkham and Continuation shelbys they use a slot for the swing arm to slot into, then a piece of steel rod - I believe 3/16" steel bent like your piece shown. The loop is designed to be above the floor enough to catch the swing arm and then the swing arm cams it down tight. Shape the rod with a raised center as your drawing above shows, 90 degree legs, and bent 90 degrees on the bottom with loops at the end so you can bolt it to the floor, front and back of the slot. If you get it close, you simply shim it to fit. If it isn't close, you make make a new piece and try again.

Of course, you could go the elaborate route and either drop the tank, take out the trunk floor piece so you can stick your head in there and measure everything, then put it all back together. The clay idea was best, though, IMHO.

Don't let this stuff get to you or you might as well dump it and take up reading novels for a hobby. I know, I had to make my door hinges 5 times and they still aren't 100% right.... also built my floor pedal box, hood and trunk hinges, control arms, shock mounts, trailing arms, and a bunch of other stuff and none of it was right the first time, or the second....

Bob

[Dominik]

I am on *13*'s side. Step away slightly from the norm and make some innovative changes.
My car had the oil cooler scoop cutoff to allow me to access the garage. People said: How can you do that? My response: With a speed grinder.. It's your car.

Building a car is also building character!

[G-Pete]

Bill, here is your solution...

[Blas]

The 289 FIA's also use the bungee cord with 2 washers on body. Doesn't lock but keeps it closed.

[1985 CCX]

The bungee was "in addition" not replacement...... 289 cars twist etc.

[Bill D]

I plan to install the body and then take it to the painter to fit the trunklid. Once that's done, I'll have a better understanding of where the latch arm falls using clay. I can then address what's needed. Until then, there are other things that can be done on the car

Thanks for the reassurance and photos of various latching methods

[Bill D]

I contacted Bruce this week regarding the problem with the trunk lid latch. Today, I received what I was looking for; the ultimate solution. As shown in the pics he provided, a simple plate with a 1/4 rod welded to the plate, then riveted to the body, is the solution. Simple, clean, and straightforward

[Bill D]

Today I made a prototype of the trunk latch striker from some leftover material. Yes, my welds suck. The plate is .125 mild steel and the pin .250 rod. Unsure if .125 thick plate is too thick. Feedback welcomed

[LMH]

If there's frame under the body there, you could recess it into the fiberglass.
Larry

[Bill D]

Originally Posted by LMH

If there's frame under the body there, you could recess it into the fiberglass.
Larry

The pin will likely be too low.