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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2017, 07:10 PM
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Bill,

The weld will not show when it is installed, I would to worry about it. Tack it in place with some good tape and check for the proper orientation before making it permanent. If it is too thick you can grind away some of the underside of the latch striker. Once it is painted it will look great and do the job.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-18-2017, 08:04 PM
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Thanks 1795. I did some measurements and concluded the pin would hit the frame and prevent the striker from laying flat. So I modified it, rewelded it, and blended everything. Now it will clear the frame


Last edited by Bill D; 01-24-2017 at 07:02 PM..
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2017, 06:29 PM
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2017, 07:06 PM
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So I used a threaded rod through the trunk floor...washers either side and being a threaded rod I can adjust it infinitely ,on the other end ..the end that latches I welded a single link of chain......the chain link if you look at the latching lever on the latch it has a cutout that fits around the link. If you adjust it right as you turn the handle it will compress the trunk against the rubber seal and then pop slightly up. The notch in the lever keeps it from opening..but you must have the pressure from the rubber seal to keep it tight. ;......I bent the threaded rod inside the trunk to follow the contour....it works great .
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 02-04-2017, 09:32 AM
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"The next issue is how high do I make the striker? I can't crawl in the trunk after the body is on to measure, so I'm trying,to,calculate it by measuring all the pieces (trunk, hinge, body, etc.). And where do I mount the striker? What does it need to look like? Will it clear the inside of the trunk lid?"

When I built my slabside about 20 years ago I got inside the trunk with a flashlight and closed it (I told my wife what I was doing in case something went wrong!).As I remember it didn't seem that tight. I am 5'11", about 160 lb. If you are too big get a smaller person to try. Once in in, the design of the latch should be obvious.
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Old 02-05-2017, 08:22 AM
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Last summer I was working on a Street Beast which has a fiberglass trunk molded to the body. I cut a trap door in the floor of the trunk so I could reach thru and mark where the hinges needed mounting and the latch. This is before I mount the gas tank. With a door over the gas tank I can easily get to the sending unit later. It will cover it with carpet.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 05-27-2017, 06:02 PM
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How youse doin', Bill?
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Old 05-28-2017, 05:12 PM
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Bill, I hope to have my project down here in Florida soon.

I'm hoping I can rely on you as a resource.
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Old 05-28-2017, 05:32 PM
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Take a few days off from it
Try contacting the cars manufacturer or other owners of same car for ideas
Try spacing it different up down in out etc.
All cars can be a pain at times even for the pros
Remember this is supposed to be fun when it not its time to get away for a little while. Do something else on it that's less of a challenge.
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Old 05-28-2017, 05:53 PM
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I'm told on the Talk Cobra forum that he has given up and put the car up for sell on the FFR forum.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 05-28-2017, 06:23 PM
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Bill... I watch this video every now and again to get my juices flowing. You've already got the Webers... Don't give up on it, buddy.

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Last edited by jmimac351; 05-28-2017 at 06:26 PM..
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2017, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmimac351 View Post
Bill... I watch this video every now and again to get my juices flowing. You've already got the Webers... Don't give up on it, buddy.

Wrong video to show Bill D! I think he would've given up and stormed off in frustration after that awesome 289 failed to start after two tries.

Honestly, it's sad to hear his dream end this way - everyone wants to see it completed - but I never really got all of the frustration and throwing arms up in the air every time a fully custom project like that presented a relatively minor challenge.

Didn't someone else use a Mr. Bruce 289 body in a similar build and come out happy and satisfied after facing and solving the same or similar challenges? I hope Bill reconsiders and sees it through after all of the time and effort he's already sunk into the project.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2017, 08:05 AM
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Webers once set are easy.
There is s simple process. If you need a share I will.
I too have had set backs, commit to a 30 minute focus each day and it comes together.
You can also let it sit fir a time, not going to run away.
Sometimes it's nice to visualize and thus reset your fire.
Happens to all of us.

Last edited by 1985 CCX; 05-29-2017 at 08:08 AM..
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2017, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzz View Post

Didn't someone else use a Mr. Bruce 289 body in a similar build and come out happy and satisfied after facing and solving the same or similar challenges? I hope Bill reconsiders and sees it through after all of the time and effort he's already sunk into the project.
I think that would be me.



John O
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Old 05-29-2017, 01:22 PM
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My favorite FFR.
And my favorite one before that was what it looked like before you re-did it.
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Old 05-29-2017, 07:26 PM
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Thank you Dallas! Much appreciated.

John O
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Old 05-30-2017, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jolsen42 View Post
I think that would be me.



John O
Yes, and your car is one of my favorite 289's on the site. Fantastic job!
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2017, 02:23 PM
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Bill,
I'm building a FF 289 but not highly modified as yours. The standard trunk latch setup uses a screw with a tube spacer that goes thru the trunk body lip, has the tube spacer inside between the body and frame, and a nut on the back side of a plate on the chassis. The latch swings down and catches that tube.
So, it would seem you need some sort of a bracket with a rod or tube for the latch handle to grab. That could have a slotted hole for adjustment, and mount down to the chassis rail, presuming there is one under your trunk lip.
I also had to fab new brackets to mount the door latches and weld them to the frame tube, as the mounts provided weren't even close to working with cut back doors. Some of these surprises will drive you nuts. Chill and think it thru.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2017, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteH View Post
I also had to fab new brackets to mount the door latches and weld them to the frame tube, as the mounts provided weren't even close to working with cut back doors.
C'monnn Mannn... there is no way a cobra replica requires you to re-engineer, cuss, fab, and weld something you already paid for - and certainly not an FFR!

Hopefully our boy Bill is going to push on thru, get back in the saddle, make some progress, and show us a picture.

There will be no explanation necessary. A knowing nod, tip of the cap, and move along...
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2017, 04:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buzz View Post
....Didn't someone else use a Mr. Bruce 289 body ....
Yeah, mine too is a Mr. Bruce body, much modified.
There are certainly challenges along the way (current challenge is making the roll-over bar fit correctly). I think Jeffs' idea is a good one of taking 30 minute bites at it each/most days, and almost always the solution emerges eventually and I think "why didn't I think of that before?".
Asking for help or advice is what this forum is here for. From what I've seen of you and your build so far, you are a very resourceful builder from whom I have taken much inspiration.

Cheers mate,
Glen

Last edited by xb-60; 06-01-2017 at 04:56 AM..
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