Frustrated and depressed with this build

[Bill D]

I've struggled the whole weekend with trying to devise a trunk latch striker to mount to,the frame. Nothing. It seems like it's just one thing after another with no end in sight. What will I confront next? What other issues await me? I can't decide if I should continue or just sell it as is and let someone else finish it. The struggles are just getting to me.

[1795]

Bill,

You have tremendous skill. Even the best hit a wall sometimes. Step away from it for a couple of days, regroup and you will figure it out.

Post some pictures of what you have, describe the problem and I am sure that there are people on the site who can point things out to you.

I have done a lot of consulting over the years and I have found that a lot of the times the solutions that I suggest to people are not earth shattering, or things that they could not have figured out themselves. Sometimes we just get frustrated and get narrow in our thought process.

I have been frustrated with an issue at times, and then in the middle of the night it comes to me when I am not thinking of it.

Tip a cold one/sip some wine/enjoy some good bourbon or all of the above. Give it a little bit of a rest and it will come to you.

Jim

[*13*]

Yeah, give it a couple days. There are a lot of skilled car guys & fabbers down in that area, as well. I wish I was still down there. I'd give you a hand.

[1985 CCX]

Stay strong
Building a car is special and a part of you.
Breath, think and it will be fine.

[Tommy]

Bill D,
I've spent many hours looking at photos of latches of countless types in hopes of capturing an idea for the door latches on my Cheetah project. Yes, I've seen many things that could work, but none that promise the look, functionality and simplicity I'd like. ... I've done enough projects over the years to learn that when the solution to a problem doesn't feel right, it ususally isn't right. Even when it feels right, it sometimes turns out to be wrong. But when it feels iffy, it is almost always wrong. .... The thing that usually pulls me out of the situation you're in is several nights sleep. My mind works on the problem while I'm sleeping and often tries solutions no rational person would consider. Those irrational solutions linger when I awake and sometimes lead me to consider entirely new approaches to the problem. .... So unless this striker thing is preventing you from working on anything else, put it aside and let your mind work on it in the background while you do other things. And open your mind to solutions that go beyond finding the ideal striker. ... Good luck.

[Bill D]

Here is today's problem:

As shown in the picture, the distance between the bottom of the trunk and the latch arm in the closed position is .750. The height of the body lip in the next photo is .875. That means the trunk latch will hit by .125. The sweep f the arm requires a notch 2.00 long plus somehow making clearance for the arm in the closed position.




I do have some space between the trunkpan and the frame which will likely provide the clearance I need. That means I would have to notch both the body and the trunkpan. With the trunkpan now installed, that's going to be a challenge.



The next issue is how high do I make the striker? I can't crawl in the trunk after the body is on to measure, so I'm trying,to,calculate it by measuring all the pieces (trunk, hinge, body, etc.). And where do I mount the striker? What does it need to look like? Will it clear the inside of the trunk lid?

If I attach the striker to the back of the frame it will hit the latch arm and trunk lid. If I mount it to the trunkpan in the trunk then the striker has to be really long and will catch on things.

Just frustrated with this whole project.

[Bill D]

It looks like I'm going to have to install the body and wheels, and trailer the damn thing to the painter to fit the trunk. Then bring it all home, unload it, and design the trunk striker. Then remove the body and wheels and continue. Or leave the body on and continue the build. I just don't know

[*13*]

You know.... my latch is very irresponsible & most FIA cars had the bungee cord anyway. Why not just make the latch area look really nice & run the bungee setup in true FIA fashion? My trunk latches but, an easy tug... & it pops open. Maybe a non issue unless you are seeking over perfection

[Bill D]

*13*, I plan on running the bungee cords like in your picture, but I'm unsure as to how tight it holds the trunklid in place. Will it bounce around on bumpy roads?

[spookypt]

Bill, my first cobra had the bungy deal for the boot and it worked a treat. Was firm but not tight and never bounced.



Now as far as giving up DON'T! I watched your 40 being built, tried in vain to buy it after it arrived and now one of Australia's richest men own it (Tony Denny) I have tried to buy it off him a few times without success. He wants ALOT for it so he knows how good you build your cars.

Keep going....it'll be worth it and you have many a build admirer downunder! Have a break and revisit it mate.

[Karl Bebout]

BillD, the trunk lid won't bounce around if the bungee is tight, but you'll need to be sure the metal ends on the bungee don't rub on your paint.

[Phx Mike]

Bill I am probably missing something but if your latch works like mine does, the little arm on the latch just rotates into a slot cut into the body. There is no striker per se. The slot has to be wide enough side to side to allow the arm on the latch to rotate into the slot. The latch also has to be long enough to engage the slot (0.125 inches does not sound like quite enough). Not sure if that makes sense - I may be misunderstanding the issue.

[*13*]

The bungee is pretty snug. It doesn't move. The lid has a rubber weather seal around it, as well. It's a nice fit.

[Bill D]

Originally Posted by Phx Mike

Bill I am probably missing something but if your latch works like mine does, the little arm on the latch just rotates into a slot cut into the body. There is no striker per se. The slot has to be wide enough side to side to allow the arm on the latch to rotate into the slot. The latch also has to be long enough to engage the slot (0.125 inches does not sound like quite enough). Not sure if that makes sense - I may be misunderstanding the issue.

My car is a highly modified FFR, not a Kirkham. It would be nice if I could get mine to do as yours does. I'll look closer. Maybe I can cut a notch in the frame. We'll see

[Bill D]

Ok. After much thinking, I think I've come up with a solution to the trunk latch striker. I've attached a sketch of my idea. The striker would be made from either .080 or .125 mild steel and made in three pieces. The center piece would be notched and then bent 90 deg at each end. The two end pieces would be welded to the center piece, and slotted holes added for adjustment. Height could be managed with shim washers. It would be mounted to the frame with #6 sheet metal screws to the frame. I would still have to clearance the body and the trunkpan.

the latch arm would swing down thru the notch and push against the plate creating sufficient tension to keep the trunk lid closed

[jolsen42]

Now that wasn't too hard was it?

John O

[Bill D]

Originally Posted by jolsen42

Now that wasn't too hard was it?

John O

Actually it was. It has taken me all weekend, countless hours, to try and come up with a solution. And while I have a "possible" solution on paper, I still have to fab it, and fit it, to see if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't, I'm back to square one. It was never mentioned to me that I had to design and fab a whole bunch of parts.

I still have to install the body and trailer the car to the painter to fit the trunk so I can make a clay impression of the area and evaluate how it will fit, height, location, etc. Painter is 3 hrs away

[427sharpe]

Have u considered a stainless steel U bolt, mounted perpendicular to the rear bumper line? It gives easy adjustment and is easier to mount in a strong position and still be relatively unobtrusive. My .02!

[krausewich]

Hi Bill.
Been there!!! Most of us probably have had out days.

What I see are two fold.
One, your latch is much higher than normal. It's usually centered on the trunk frame.
Two, your trunk lip looks much longer than usual. Usually between .25-.75" depending on mfg.
We will help you through it !!

I would start with marking up the body with color like you did with the green sharpie, then drop the catch in the down position to mark in the green ink. Drill a hole through that spot, and slowly open up the hole until the striker slips through. Love the concept you have for the catch! I see that there is a plate in the general area of the catch location, have you considered a U bracket that is adjustable up and down via nuts on either side of the solid surface like many hoods and trunks on production cars?

Good luck, and feel free to lean anytime, that's why we are a forum!!
Mike.

Oh yes....
N E V E R!!!! Send your body to the painter, then figure mods out later.... Fit, disassemble, paint, then reassemble....

[1795]

Originally Posted by Bill D

Actually it was. It has taken me all weekend, countless hours, to try and come up with a solution. And while I have a "possible" solution on paper, I still have to fab it, and fit it, to see if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't, I'm back to square one. It was never mentioned to me that I had to design and fab a whole bunch of parts.

I still have to install the body and trailer the car to the painter to fit the trunk so I can make a clay impression of the area and evaluate how it will fit, height, location, etc. Painter is 3 hrs away

Bill,

I can empathize with your frustration over all the fabrication and adjustments that have to be made with some builds. I know that I thought that it will be like building plastic models when I was younger, just read the instructions and apply glue. Then we get a kit and the instructions are not straight forward and there is a lot of fabrication required. I just started helping a friend build his Lonestar Cobra that he has been working on for several years and I cannot believe the amount of adjustments that we have to make to get the body to fit and to install the engine and drivetrain.

It looks like your plan has a good chance of success, although you still may war to add the bungee cords for added security and to complete the FIA look. I would also second the thought that you do not want to send the body to the painter and then make further adjustments and cuts to it. Get it done, and then send it out.

Good luck.

Jim