Found this in my oil pan

[Shootnride]

To me, those kind of look like pieces of a bronze valve guide.

Ted

[bobcowan]

Originally Posted by Dimis

Doug,
For the most part, I know nothing about anything... Except for when this man Gaz talks, I best be listening.



Sounds like a $hitty proposition, but I'd pull the engine and check out the main bearing thrust. If for nothing else other than piece of mind.

Fingers crossed for you for the best possible outcome.

Why not just drop the oil pan and inspect the bearing? A lot less work and time.

[moore_rb]

Originally Posted by mln385

Well the length and the fact the big lengths look round , could be valve guide remnants.

Originally Posted by Shootnride

To me, those kind of look like pieces of a bronze valve guide.

Ted

3 votes for broken valve guide...

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by bobcowan

Why not just drop the oil pan and inspect the bearing? A lot less work and time.

It'd still need to be cleaned of metal bits, no? Seems like it's gotta come out at this point either way.

[blykins]

I don't see how a valve guide would end up in the oil pan. It's only got two ways of coming out....down into a cylinder.....or up through the top, which would require threading itself between the coils of a valve spring while it's running....

Open the filter, see what you have going on in there first. It takes 5 minutes.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by blykins

I don't see how a valve guide would end up in the oil pan. It's only got two ways of coming out....down into a cylinder.....or up through the top, which would require threading itself between the coils of a valve spring while it's running....

Open the filter, see what you have going on in there first. It takes 5 minutes.

There was a fair amount of grit on the side of the filter housing and some on the bottom. The paper element had a bit too, but not as much.

[blykins]

How did you cut it apart?

Got pics of the element pleats?

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by blykins

How did you cut it apart?

Got pics of the element pleats?

I used a dremel around the lip. These pieces seem bigger than any filings that I might have created using that method.

Pleats were pretty clean. Found a few small particles only I'll try to take some pics.

[PeteH]

Since the oil pan is off, you can disassemble one bearing cap at a time to look for trouble, start with #3 main to see what the thrust bearing looks like. You may not be able to pull #1 or the rear most main cap, but should be able to pull all the rod bearing caps. The condition of the bearings would be a good indication if it's time for a rebuild. If any part of those chunks were pumped thru the oil system, there may be scoring on the bearings and/or crank. Also, since the bottom is open, I would take a good careful look at the piston skirts with a flashlight, look for any chipped or broken edges, although being aluminum, those would not be magnetic at all.

[jhv48]

Could they be pieces from the oil pump pickup tube?

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by PeteH

Since the oil pan is off, you can disassemble one bearing cap at a time to look for trouble, start with #3 main to see what the thrust bearing looks like. You may not be able to pull #1 or the rear most main cap, but should be able to pull all the rod bearing caps. The condition of the bearings would be a good indication if it's time for a rebuild. If any part of those chunks were pumped thru the oil system, there may be scoring on the bearings and/or crank. Also, since the bottom is open, I would take a good careful look at the piston skirts with a flashlight, look for any chipped or broken edges, although being aluminum, those would not be magnetic at all.

I still don't think I would feel good about not having someone go through the engine at this point.

[FWB]

doug, who built the motor?

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by FWB

doug, who built the motor?

Dwight Powell from Dahlonega, GA. He specialized in period correct FE's. He's since passed away though, so I can't ask him.

[FrankR105]

Guess you can't delete a post once you've made it. Just discovered someone already mentioned my idea. As Emily Latella used to say, "Never mind!"

I know the pieces have Copper-like tendencies, but I would have thought someone should have mentioned, by now, to check the bottom of the pistons and their skirts. The pan is off anyway, should be easy enough (unless you have some serious windage baffles). Use a strong light.

[PeteH]

I agree dcdoug, the motor needs to be thoroughly looked at, just suggesting ways to asses if any serious damage visible. Since you stated they are pliable, not hard and brittle, they may be bits of some sort of gasket sealer the builder used rather than metal bits. I've always built my own motors, and having a few bits of sealer in the oil pan later isn't unheard of, no matter how careful you are during assembly. I tape magnets on the oil filter to try to contain the fine particles from breaking in and wear. Bigger chunks of metallic bits in the oil pan are never good, they came from some component somewhere.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by PeteH

I agree dcdoug, the motor needs to be thoroughly looked at, just suggesting ways to asses if any serious damage visible. Since you stated they are pliable, not hard and brittle, they may be bits of some sort of gasket sealer the builder used rather than metal bits. I've always built my own motors, and having a few bits of sealer in the oil pan later isn't unheard of, no matter how careful you are during assembly. I tape magnets on the oil filter to try to contain the fine particles from breaking in and wear. Bigger chunks of metallic bits in the oil pan are never good, they came from some component somewhere.

If I had to guess I'd say they were copper.

[PHM]

I have seen this exact same thing before!!! I had a 65 mustang fastback and put a new 302 in it from Jasper racing Engines. The motor had a roller cam and i just put in the stock distributor from the original motor and didn't know i had to use a new bronze gear. It wore out the steel gear in about 20 min. Once i installed the bronze gear the cam wore into the bronze gear and left these exact kinds of chips!!!! Once it wore in it was fine until i sold the car which was about 10 years. I am thinking maybe they dyno tested your engine with the bronze gear and this is the leftovers since you said you have a steel gear. I would not pull the motor if it is running fine!! JMO

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by PHM

I have seen this exact same thing before!!! I had a 65 mustang fastback and put a new 302 in it from Jasper racing Engines. The motor had a roller cam and i just put in the stock distributor from the original motor and didn't know i had to use a new bronze gear. It wore out the steel gear in about 20 min. Once i installed the bronze gear the cam wore into the bronze gear and left these exact kinds of chips!!!! Once it wore in it was fine until i sold the car which was about 10 years. I am thinking maybe they dyno tested your engine with the bronze gear and this is the leftovers since you said you have a steel gear. I would not pull the motor if it is running fine!! JMO

The only problem with that is the oil pan is new from a few years ago.....these scraps are new and the distributor gear looks fine.....

[PHM]

I don't know what to tell you then. If it is running fine i would just keep running it.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by PHM

I don't know what to tell you then. If it is running fine i would just keep running it.

Me too. In fact, I'd run it a while revving over six grand. That way, if there was something wrong with it, I'd get to the bottom of it pretty quickly. And, if nothing happened, then I would feel even more confident that I was right and that piece of crap was harmless and came from who knows where -- but it's not a big deal.