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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2017, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by wolf k View Post
Interesting, your particles look similar to these;
Found this in sump
Interesting. Could be the same I guess. I can't talk to my builder since he passed. I am hoping to pull some of the main caps today and take a look, starting with #3. I'll post pics when I do.

BTW, I saw you switched to a double roller timing chain. That's what I have.
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Old 06-04-2017, 05:14 PM
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The oil pan scraper blocks removal of the main caps, but there is as much as I could show of #3. Any thoughts? I think the engine's got to come out at this point or I just won't feel good about driving it hard.







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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2017, 05:20 PM
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I don't see anything blatantly obvious.

Did you check crank thrust clearance? Very easy with the pan off.

I'm still in favor of buttoning it back up, changing the filter and oil, and putting a few miles on it.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2017, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by blykins View Post
I don't see anything blatantly obvious.

Did you check crank thrust clearance? Very easy with the pan off.

I'm still in favor of buttoning it back up, changing the filter and oil, and putting a few miles on it.
How would I check crank trust clearance? The pan hasn't been removed, just the bottom panel has been removed. So depending on where I need to check it, I might or might not have access.
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Old 06-04-2017, 06:23 PM
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Bolt the cap back on, torque all the bolts, put a dial indicator on the crank snout, pulley, whatever is easiest, then take a screwdriver and pry in between a crank counterweight and the block, back and forth.

By the way, when the cap goes back on and the bolts are run down, pry forward on the crank while you torque the bolts. That helps set the cap and thrust bearing.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2017, 12:52 AM
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I know that if it was mine it would be out - much cheaper than replacing the whole engine - I would tense up every time I took it over 3000 RPM.
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:56 AM
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I don't think I'm going to enjoy driving it nearly as much if I'm constantly worried about the engine. I'm gonna pull it and have someone better than me figure out what that metal's from.

I appreciate everyone's help and suggestions and will report back when I find out what the issue was. It will probably be a month or so.
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Old 06-05-2017, 12:07 PM
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dcdoug,
Id be happy to try and run chemistry analysis (free of charge) on the pieces to see if the material can be identified.
Let me know

Jason
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Old 06-05-2017, 12:19 PM
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dcdoug,
Id be happy to try and run chemistry analysis (free of charge) on the pieces to see if the material can be identified.
Let me know

Jason
That's nice of you! I'm going to show them to the engine builder who will do the teardown, but then will mail one off to you. Would be interesting to see what it is!
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Last edited by dcdoug; 06-05-2017 at 02:29 PM..
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2017, 02:21 PM
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DCDOUG, I'm thinking you are doing the right thing. No doubt you've got a whole lot invested in your SO and don't want to have it become nothing more than a boat anchor.
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Old 06-05-2017, 08:30 PM
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Default Bearing material?

I blew up a 351C about 15 years ago. It dropped a valve at about 5,000 rpms with a mostly stock bottom end. The pistons were cast, and they basically exploded - no kaboom, but there were aluminum bits everywhere.

Here's a pic of one of the rod bearings. It completely delaminated. That's all from one rod bearing - both halves fused together.

Maybe you have something similar going on with a bearing, but not as catastrophic as mine.

Here's the pic:
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2017, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wkooiman View Post
I blew up a 351C about 15 years ago. It dropped a valve at about 5,000 rpms with a mostly stock bottom end. The pistons were cast, and they basically exploded - no kaboom, but there were aluminum bits everywhere.

Here's a pic of one of the rod bearings. It completely delaminated. That's all from one rod bearing - both halves fused together.

Maybe you have something similar going on with a bearing, but not as catastrophic as mine.

Here's the pic:
I'll report back what I find!
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:40 PM
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I think I would start looking at any bearings directly above the trap door area of the sump.

Wiggle the rods, one might be obvious.
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Old 06-06-2017, 08:00 AM
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I think I would start looking at any bearings directly above the trap door area of the sump.

Wiggle the rods, one might be obvious.
They will all be inspected.
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcdoug View Post
I'm gonna pull it and have someone better than me figure out what that metal's from.
With a vintage side oiler, sounds like the right move.
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Old 06-07-2017, 04:59 AM
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Given what an engine like that is worth, I understand how unsettling it must be to risk serious damage. It is only minor money and time compared to what might happen. A complete freshening up the engine will not hurt anything. I cannot fault your decision.

If it turns out that was just some excess RTV sealant that came off, well so be it. Many a unknown problem was found looking for a non-problem. Good luck, and keep us posted.
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:48 AM
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Given what an engine like that is worth, I understand how unsettling it must be to risk serious damage. It is only minor money and time compared to what might happen. A complete freshening up the engine will not hurt anything. I cannot fault your decision.

If it turns out that was just some excess RTV sealant that came off, well so be it. Many a unknown problem was found looking for a non-problem. Good luck, and keep us posted.
Thanks. Since it's not rubbery and feels/bends like copper, and all sources of copper-like metal that might make it to the oil pan seem to be bearings (I have a cast iron distributor gear and it's in good condition), it's the only thing I feel comfortable doing.

I was pretty bummed, but I've made peace with it.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 06-07-2017, 12:05 PM
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Doubt this will make you feel better but my engine had less than 500 miles on the odometer when it developed a minor ticking. The noise wasn’t there when the engine was cold but after it warmed up to normal temps, it would start ticking. We ruled out any potential problem with the valve train and a few other things so before I did anything drastic, I decided to send an oil sample to Blackstone. The results were pretty bad; 166 units of copper (11 is avg) and 176 of lead (11 is avg) just to name a few and that was after running another 100 miles with fresh oil and filter. We pulled the engine, replaced lots of parts that wasn't properly assembled the first time, and the weekend of Memorial Day finally I got the engine back home. I'll spare you the details but will say I learned several lessons the hard (and expensive) way.

If it was mine, I'd change the oil like Brent mentioned but would also send an oil sample to Blackstone. The sample report should give you some insight to whether or not your bearings are going bad (like mine) or indicate if something else is going wrong. Good luck on whatever you decide to do!
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Old 06-07-2017, 12:48 PM
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Doubt this will make you feel better but my engine had less than 500 miles on the odometer when it developed a minor ticking. The noise wasn’t there when the engine was cold but after it warmed up to normal temps, it would start ticking. We ruled out any potential problem with the valve train and a few other things so before I did anything drastic, I decided to send an oil sample to Blackstone. The results were pretty bad; 166 units of copper (11 is avg) and 176 of lead (11 is avg) just to name a few and that was after running another 100 miles with fresh oil and filter. We pulled the engine, replaced lots of parts that wasn't properly assembled the first time, and the weekend of Memorial Day finally I got the engine back home. I'll spare you the details but will say I learned several lessons the hard (and expensive) way.

If it was mine, I'd change the oil like Brent mentioned but would also send an oil sample to Blackstone. The sample report should give you some insight to whether or not your bearings are going bad (like mine) or indicate if something else is going wrong. Good luck on whatever you decide to do!
I sent samples from some of my first oil changes to Blackstone, but then stopped unfortunately. Just got super busy with kids/work/life. My new regimen will be to change oil for the winter in Oct/Nov and send a sample to Blackstone. This would all have been done months ago had I done that....lesson learned.
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Old 06-07-2017, 05:15 PM
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I'm curious as to what the dings on the crankshaft are?
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