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06-16-2017, 11:22 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Windsor,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA with a 347 cu in engine
Posts: 134
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Not Ranked
Is this normal
Finally took the car out for a night drive. Noticed that my dimmer switch for the dash lights got quite hot after a few minutes. I know that rheostats heat up a bit, but is it normal for it to be painfully hot to the touch?
Thanks,
Byron
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06-16-2017, 11:53 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by byronpete21
Finally took the car out for a night drive. Noticed that my dimmer switch for the dash lights got quite hot after a few minutes. I know that rheostats heat up a bit, but is it normal for it to be painfully hot to the touch?
Thanks,
Byron
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No, it's not normal for it to be "painfully hot." You might want to take a quick voltage reading on your system and make sure you're within specs (around 14v, engine running above 2000rpm) and not somewhere too high. If the voltage is normal, then you can either replace the rheostat or add an in-line high-wattage resistor to lower the resistance you dial in on the knob, and thus lower the heat. |
06-16-2017, 12:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR fat block tko 600 9"
Posts: 191
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Not Ranked
Had same problem found light switch had rivited buss bar connections with high resistance at the rivits. Flooded the connections with solder using a high wattage soldering iron and heating issue was gone. It would trip the internal circuit breaker for the headlamps shutting them off! Some warmth in switch is normal, not what you describe. Took me a while to figure that one out. Pushing 60k with no repeats.
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06-16-2017, 04:41 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,011
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My usual recommendation when dealing with the dash-light dimmer switch is to connect both the wires to the same terminal side. (Most of the switches we've got have two tabs on each side.) You'll get full brightness (usually not a problem) all the time. For the last 10 years we've had to scrape up NOS switches, and their quality leaves a lot to be desired. Unfortunately, the original Lucas switches haven't been made in well over a decade, and when we can find them at all, their price is ridiculous. To add insult to injury, I test them all and reject about 1/4 of them out of the box.
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06-16-2017, 05:19 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,001
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
For the last 10 years we've had to scrape up NOS switches, and their quality leaves a lot to be desired. Unfortunately, the original Lucas switches haven't been made in well over a decade...
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That's the benefit of having a >10 year old ERA.  |
06-16-2017, 06:57 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Windsor,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA with a 347 cu in engine
Posts: 134
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Not Ranked
Thanks for the advice, I will take out my trusty voltmeter and start tackling the problem.
Byron
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06-16-2017, 11:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brisbane,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine:
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Also consider the total wattage of your gauge illumination bulbs.
The rheostat might not be up to the task.
It shouldn't get hot whether you are using the dimmer or not.
Are you using the dimmer?
Last edited by Gaz64; 06-17-2017 at 12:28 AM..
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06-19-2017, 02:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF#0760
Posts: 3,404
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Look to see if you have a clean tight grounds. A bad ground can cause high resistance which causes heat.
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06-27-2017, 09:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Allen,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Werk77 289FIA
Posts: 1,295
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Lukas?
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06-27-2017, 11:41 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Marcos california,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: 1989 KCC from South Africa Right Hand Drive
Posts: 1,601
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I tried a few dimmers before I found one that was substantial enough.
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06-27-2017, 03:36 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaz64
Also consider the total wattage of your gauge illumination bulbs.
The rheostat might not be up to the task.
It shouldn't get hot whether you are using the dimmer or not.
Are you using the dimmer?
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Actually, the dimmer works by running the current through resistance wiring. By "definition" there will be heat generated, possibly the equivalent sum of all the lights in the circuit. |
06-27-2017, 04:50 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brisbane,
QLD
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 2,797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
Actually, the dimmer works by running the current through resistance wiring. By "definition" there will be heat generated, possibly the equivalent sum of all the lights in the circuit.
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I know how a dimmer rheostat works.
The owner has not stated whether he is using the dimmer resistance, and more importantly what total wattage is in the instrument lighting.
Last edited by Gaz64; 06-27-2017 at 09:02 PM..
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06-27-2017, 06:27 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Florence,
AL
Cobra Make, Engine: RCR GT 40 & 1966 Fairlane 390 5 speed
Posts: 4,511
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headlight switch
I always use two relays for my head lights.
One for low beam & one for high beam controlled by the light switch. This take the amp load off the switch. The amount of amps to turn the relay on is very small compared to the amount needed for the headlight.
Dwight
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06-27-2017, 08:01 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Windsor,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA with a 347 cu in engine
Posts: 134
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Not Ranked
Thanks again for all the good advice. Have been out of the country for a few weeks so out of contact with the internet and my car for awhile. Hopefully will get to it this weekend and have some more info to share.
Best Regards,
Byron
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