Hi. - Page 12

t walgamuth · #**221** (**permalink**) 05-18-2019, 04:04 PM

I drove it around today a good bit and am getting pretty comfortabe in what it will do.

I put a 1" smaller steering wheel, 13" , as I struggled to steer fast enough in the slalom yesterday.

It says we might get a thunderstorm tomorrow. I hope it does not ruin the day.
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t walgamuth · #**222** (**permalink**) 05-20-2019, 06:46 PM

It exhibited some push in turns....
To combat the push I am contemplating:

1. smaller front sway bar.
2. put on a small bar in rear (I have removed the rear bar)
3. fit my front air dam.
4. add more negative camber on front. I currently have 1 degree.
5, move the battery from the engine compartment to the trunk.

t walgamuth · #**223** (**permalink**) 07-02-2019, 10:32 PM

My latest plan is to put both sway bars back on as built. The car was rolling a lot without them. Seems like fairly soft springs.

t walgamuth · #**224** (**permalink**) 07-07-2019, 08:25 PM

Today ran at Portage high school. A slippery asphalt lot which has been sealed. I had the front bar attached and ran without the rear. seemed perfect really. I got in 8 runs I have not seen the final results but I believe I got quicker each run more or less and had a great time!

6TNCRZY · #**225** (**permalink**) 07-07-2019, 09:57 PM

Stiffer rear bar and/or rear springs, more negative front camber, stiffer rebound on rear shocks and trail braking.

t walgamuth · #**226** (**permalink**) 07-08-2019, 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 6TNCRZY

Stiffer rear bar and/or rear springs, more negative front camber, stiffer rebound on rear shocks and trail braking.

Hi 6TN.
Thanks for the comment. In doing all that you suggest what am I hoping to fix please?
I am running no bar in back, I can do more negative camber and will (and will input some toe out for a bit more bite on turn in), my shocks are not adjustable and I am already trail braking.
The car feels perfectly neutral.

t walgamuth · #**227** (**permalink**) 07-13-2019, 03:27 PM

Yesterday I found the clutch slipping in the taller gears. Drat! Historically I have been pretty easy on clutches so I am not sure why it is slipping. So today I put it up on jacks on one side so I could look at the bottom of the bell housing for oil dripping. I saw none. I also adjusted some free play into the pedal which seemed possibly too tight. After that I test drove it and found it still slipping so next step is probably dropping the transmission.

I also pulled a front and rear wheel and got all the info from the pads.

The pucks in front are 1 7/8" The rears are 1.5"d. four pucks per rotor. Front rotor is 12" rear 11.5 IIRC. 1.25" wide ventilated rotor front and .75 vented in rear.

t walgamuth · #**228** (**permalink**) 07-18-2019, 05:45 PM

So they got it out today. It is pretty worn. The clutch people (centerline) II say it is good for 600 ft pounds of torque....I don't think so. I ordered a dual disc McLeod that will work with my existing flywheel, rated for 800 hp. They had a special going so it paid for the shipping, I believe. It is due here on Saturday.

I've been doing standing starts at the autocross taking off in second gear. I guess maybe I should start using first to at least get the car rolling.

Should be back on the track in a week or so.

The flywheel is from a 60's Nova. It is iron, has 153 teeth (or 154) and weighs 17#. I looked for aluminum flywheels but they all weighed more. I did not look at the pilot bearing. The slave is annular. The disc is 10.4".

The two disc setup is supposed to be softer engagement with more gripping power and softer pedal action. The two disc setups are fairly common in high torque engines such as vettes vipers and trucks. It also weighs about 2# less than the single disc setup so that is always a plus in an engine you want to rev up and down quickly. (Low rotating mass for quick revs)

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RallySnake · #**229** (**permalink**) 07-19-2019, 07:53 PM

It is very interesting to watch you make all the changes I made over 30 years in a short time. The Holley Sniper fixed all the slosh issues. I ended up with a 1.25 front sway bar and a 3/4” rear to get neutral handling. I recommend against the roll bar. It’s a rear head banger.

ERA 626 · #**230** (**permalink**) 07-19-2019, 08:30 PM

Same clutch I am using on my new motor, Let me know how you like it. I assume you will have it balanced with the flywheel?

t walgamuth · #**231** (**permalink**) 07-20-2019, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RallySnake

It is very interesting to watch you make all the changes I made over 30 years in a short time. The Holley Sniper fixed all the slosh issues. I ended up with a 1.25 front sway bar and a 3/4” rear to get neutral handling. I recommend against the roll bar. It’s a rear head banger.

The roll bar is required in the class I run scca autocross in....xp.

as for balancing the clutch and flywheel, this is the first time I have heard it mentioned. I'll look into it.

t walgamuth · #**232** (**permalink**) 07-20-2019, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RallySnake

It is very interesting to watch you make all the changes I made over 30 years in a short time. The Holley Sniper fixed all the slosh issues. I ended up with a 1.25 front sway bar and a 3/4” rear to get neutral handling. I recommend against the roll bar. It’s a rear head banger.

The roll bar is required in the class I run scca autocross in....xp. what do you mean by rear head banger please?

as for balancing the clutch and flywheel, this is the first time I have heard it mentioned. I'll look into it.

t walgamuth · #**233** (**permalink**) 07-20-2019, 05:11 PM

The clutch arrived today from Jegs. The packaging and instruction brochure are the most impressive I have ever seen. Beautiful!

Gaz64 · #**234** (**permalink**) 07-20-2019, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

what do you mean by rear head banger please?

That means the roll bar bangs into the back of your head if you get hit from behind.

Gary

t walgamuth · #**235** (**permalink**) 07-21-2019, 06:17 AM

Ahah! I have high back seats.

Thanks for your comments!

t walgamuth · #**236** (**permalink**) 07-22-2019, 03:44 PM

Today they finished the clutch installation and installed new brake pads with more grippiness (hopefully) .

The clutch actuation feels a bit softer and the engagement of the clutch is soft and smooth but if you hurry it is a bit aggressive. seems about right.

t walgamuth · #**237** (**permalink**) 08-05-2019, 06:11 AM

Saturday I ran at Grissom. Unfortunately I did not get the car out and test drive it before showing up. The car had a fouled plug. In the past I have had a miss like this and it has come out of it after being fully warmed up. Unfortunately it did not come out of it and I ran on 7 cylinders. No fun.

hauss · #**238** (**permalink**) 08-05-2019, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

The clutch arrived today from Jegs. The packaging and instruction brochure are the most impressive I have ever seen. Beautiful!

Did you read all the impressive instructions? Like the one that says new or resurfaced flywheel . How about 500 mile break in. I am truly impressed with your clutch and just want you to be too.

t walgamuth · #**239** (**permalink**) 08-05-2019, 09:28 AM

I let my installer read them. We did resurface the flywheel. Do you know that my clutch needs a 500 mile break in? I have never heard of such a thing. I like it so far.

Gaz64 · #**240** (**permalink**) 08-05-2019, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

I let my installer read them. We did resurface the flywheel. Do you know that my clutch needs a 500 mile break in? I have never heard of such a thing. I like it so far.

Every clutch needs a break-in period. The torque capacity is not there until it is run-in. Same principle as brake pads.

Gary