Kirkham TKO 600 sandwich rear mount......

[AC Ventura]

Has anybody some real life opinion on this innovative mount, the one that fits rear of the 4” dia crossmember, in lieu of the std mount that clashes with said member. I’m fitting an FE and the TKO to an original spec chassis. I can fabricate something akin to the described unit, or alternatively relocate the crossmember 3” rearwards and use the conventional mount. That way could get the trans out with less hassle. Any feedback, opinions from actual owners, would like to hear.

[Morris]

I’ll send you some photo’s tomorrow.....we mounted a bit different.....

[AC Ventura]

Thanks would definitely like to see that

[Morris]

AC

If I understood your question right.... here's how we mounted the TKO 600 to the chassis.... we turned it around verses how the Kirkhams mount the rear of the TKO..... The main reason was it's easier to slip the TKO into the bell housig and the clutch plate.... we use a Double Plate 8" racing clutch. We've had the trans in and out many times and it worked great....

Here's how it's mounted in the chassis









Also you'll note that we are using a Mark Williams Yoke and it's for a 1350 spicer U-joint.... we do the same on the rear diff.... in racing you take no chances with lots of HP and right next to your leg.... Just Saying....

[AC Ventura]

Thanks for the pix Morris and yep, this is the area. I can see your chassis is different construction wise to orig Shelby, with the A brace behind the OE 4" c/m that the smaller mount webs are welded to. But how does this aid trans removal?

The CNC sandwich mount looks like the Kirkham unit, which I quess it is... so what am I missing?

[Morris]

AC

We have Kirkham KMP259..... and if you mount the rear transmission mount the way they had it .... off of the 4" cross tube .... then it is harder to insert into the ears of the mount and the transmission at the same time.......because the ears are in the way as you lower it down.... we made a A-frame with a smaller cross member that the rear Transmission mounts or Sandwich as you call it.... and since we have a multi-plate Clutch .... you have to get straight before you attempt to insert the input shaft into the Clutch Plates.... also the angle of the engine and transmission had to be considered and this was the easiest way to accomplish..... moving ear's around on a 4" cross member get's in the way as you drop the transmission down then go straight into the Clutch .... you don't exactly have much room to work with....

[AC Ventura]

Morris

Ah, now I get it. Thank you.

I’m converting a ‘93 Mk IV Autokraft to FE. It’s a long winded task as the chassis, though Shelby 427 derived has no 2 c/m in a different place to suit the O.E. 302 hollow sump. Also the alloy body iwas on, so remoulding the glass footwells in place was difficult. Anyhow as you can see, that’s all done now, as the front c/m’s ground out now, as are the mounts. About to position the new 3” c/m that fits under the FE sump, just in front of the b/h dust shield.

Not shown in the pic

I have a couple more questions if you don’t mind.

1) Is the TKO mount we are discussing satisfactory, for modern aluminium FE power?
2) Any idea why they didn’t just move the 4” c/m back 2-3” and use the typical TKO rubber mount, on a removeable platform? Then the entire TKO can slide clear, as is. That was my intention, but it’s an even tougher job to remove, as has plates fro handbrake etc welded all over it. Also chassis will be slightly less stiff, but not by much.
3) Do you know if you can lower the FE in, with the b/h on? Looks very tricky unless I can tip the front of the engine down first, then right it with a leveller. Looks very tight and easier with the b/h off. Don’t get this slavishly conformity to the original.
4) Can I ask what engine mounts does Kirkham use? I bought the 3 hole flat style, but like the idea of the Tinman Fabrication style, with the longitudinal urethane bushes, where the engine can’t break loose.

[RockBit]

Originally Posted by AC Ventura

3) Do you know if you can lower the FE in, with the b/h on? Looks very tricky unless I can tip the front of the engine down first, then right it with a leveller. Looks very tight and easier with the b/h off. Don’t get this slavishly conformity to the original.

Before I installed my FE, I checked with ERA regarding whether it could drop in with bell housing on. They advised to install the b/h after the engine was in place. With the clutch and pressure plate on it dropped right in. Even then I had a borrowed leveler on it to give me more control as it went in.

You’re car is different from mine though. This is just what I did.

[AC Ventura]

Thanks Chris

Yep I checked on my drawings and looks only just about feasible with the bh off. Anyhow I’ve constructed it so the bh can be removed from the inside so that’s what we’ll do.