Cool Safety Wiring

[Trubble]

As a "rookie" Cobra owner, my safety wire pliers have only been used on my pin drives several times. This gives me inspiration to look around the beast to see where else I might need safety wires.
Your work looks pretty damn good to me, and I've seen some professional wiring on the military engines.
Thanks for sharing.

[S1965C]

Originally Posted by Gun Doc

Not bad, but as a former aircraft technical inspector, I would had to have failed this particular safety. The initial loop though the bottom fastener should have been at the bottom of the bolt head - The two sections of wire should not touch. Also 6-8 twists per inch is what you are looking for with about a 1/2 " "pigtail" at the end that should be bent back into the bolt head. This keeps it from snagging on things, like your skin! All in all not a bad attempt and a good way to keep things tight. Did you use safety wire pilers, or was this done by hand?

Patrick, I believe you should re-do this and report back here with the improved version. You are far too meticulous to let this go and we all know you are losing sleep after reading this expert inspector's evaluation.

[spdbrake]

Just a few of the safetied areas on my BDR.

[Gun Doc]

Those are some nice safeties!

[Gun Doc]

Originally Posted by S1965C

Patrick, I believe you should re-do this and report back here with the improved version. You are far too meticulous to let this go and we all know you are losing sleep after reading this expert inspector's evaluation.

Like I said in the original response; not a bad attempt for someone who probably doesn't have a lot of experience in safety wiring. I pointed things out for the good of the group. Some safeties are applied to critical areas and if not done correctly could fail. Was this one? Of course not.

[Gun Doc]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

I think I see. But will this version be any less effective?

For this particular application? No. I was pointing out general safety wire "rules" that could cause the safety to indeed be less effective, depending on what the safety is securing. You don't want two pieces of the wire to touch, because vibration can cause the wire to weaken and eventually fail. Same with the number of twists per inch. Twisted too tightly can cause stress on the wire and lead to failure. A pigtail that is not curled back into the fastener, or out of the way can snag on moving parts, or you. This forum to for sharing information. I think Patrick did a fine job for someone who hasn't done a lot of safety wiring. In this case, I highly doubt any of the things I pointed out would lead to any problems, except maybe catching a finger on the pigtail. My comments were not meant as criticism, just general knowledge for the group.

[patrickt]

Rest assured, I disregard pretty much everything other than posts that say "Patrick is wonderful and knows everything there is to know about everything."

[R&B back]

Spdbrake and Patrickt,
That safety wire looks very nice. But why spend the time safety wiring things like brake, steering and shifting components when you can spend the time for this?

This way, when I pull into the pits in my make believe race, my make believe quick jack will be there!

[patrickt]

You know, I actually kind of like that.

[RUFdriver]

That’s a lot of safety wires, are you all endurance racing ?

[tortuga]

Nice work, mine seem to loosen over time too. Much more elegant than loctite...

[spdbrake]

The past few years most aviation Engine and Component manufacturers and overhaul shops (Fuel controls, Hyd manifolds etc..) have moved to pre-twisted crimped safeties. Easier to install, hard to screw up. They also serve as warning to Techs, cut one and you stand a good chance of voiding any warranty.

Still on the hanger floors you won't find anyone using the the Pre-twisted stuff. There is a certain pride in Correct-clean-tight safetying.

https://www.dmctools.com/products/safe-t-cable/

[RUFdriver]

Looks really cool, I can definitely see the need on some brake and suspension components. However, I think Loctite is probably more than adequate for the more mundane parts.

[spdbrake]

Med Blue 242 and 243 liquefies @ 300f so not good for engine components or brakes etc..
High strength Red 277 will is rated up to 450f and usually you need to heat the part to 500f to get the bolt or nut to loosen. Although it may hold up on a water pump it def won't stay solid on Header bolts, Brakes, exhaust parts.

[RUFdriver]

High temperature Blue 246 and ultra high temperature 2422 should work better.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by spdbrake

The past few years most aviation Engine and Component manufacturers and overhaul shops (Fuel controls, Hyd manifolds etc..) have moved to pre-twisted crimped safeties. Easier to install, hard to screw up. They also serve as warning to Techs, cut one and you stand a good chance of voiding any warranty.

Still on the hanger floors you won't find anyone using the the Pre-twisted stuff. There is a certain pride in Correct-clean-tight safetying.

https://www.dmctools.com/products/safe-t-cable/

That is a very nice system.

Would love to use it soon.

Gary