QuickJack purchase

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by dacobb

So, my Quickjack arrived today. Missing one 2" block but otherwise everything is there.

Sent in a request to get the missing part; somewhat of a hassle as I had to look up the serial number, which requires an electron microscope to read, but OK, whatever.

The operation manual is very good.

Overall the kit looks decent. First job will be to use it on wife's car to change brake pads and rotors.

The ERA main frame is well inside the wheelbase, which is good since this thing is 69" long and won't fit between the tires.

Hope it's a good purchase and if so wish I had bought this years ago.

Which model did you end up getting?

[rads42]

Is there any concern that the frame is so far inboard ther'd be no/minimal room to work in between the stands? that would pretty much relegate this to a tool for brake jobs if that's the case. I want to buy one but I wonder if the 3500 model is a better choice for a Cobra because it's a little shorter?

[lnfletcher]

Originally Posted by rads42

Is there any concern that the frame is so far inboard ther'd be no/minimal room to work in between the stands? that would pretty much relegate this to a tool for brake jobs if that's the case. I want to buy one but I wonder if the 3500 model is a better choice for a Cobra because it's a little shorter?

I have the 3500 model and move them as far to the outside as I can for stability.
If mine were much longer, they would not fit between the tires as I have about 3-4 in clearance.

https://youtu.be/jO8vx0-LfAc

Love mine and wish I had purchased it sooner.

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by ACHiPo

Which model did you end up getting?

the 5000 SLX.

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by rads42

Is there any concern that the frame is so far inboard ther'd be no/minimal room to work in between the stands? that would pretty much relegate this to a tool for brake jobs if that's the case. I want to buy one but I wonder if the 3500 model is a better choice for a Cobra because it's a little shorter?

The 3500 is the best choice for your Cobra, if the jack is only used for the Cobra or other lightweight vehicles.

Unfortunately, most cars weigh over 3500 lbs, so that is why I went with the 5000; I'll be using it on my daily drivers as well as the Cobra.

Based on the ERA frame, the quickjack will reside mostly under the car, so anything other than wheel/brakes/suspension work may be difficult.

I have a lift so anything related to the drivetrain can be worked on using that.

[ACHiPo]

I have the 5000. It fits between the tires of my SPF (barely), but the frame members that I can use for lifting are over a foot inboard. I can still get my creeper between the QuickJacks, but it's a little claustrophobic under there. I was hoping I could position the QuickJacks further outboard on my ERA 427, but it sounds like maybe not.

[pgermond]

The only issue I have with my QuickJack is being able to move around under the car. So much so, that I lower it on to jack stands. Not for the fear of the QuickJack coming down (used properly it is very secure), but to be able work on it from underneath the car. There is no way for the QuickJack to come down without weight on it so it makes it tricky getting the rails out of the way. I have to use a floor jack on the front to lift the car enough to put jack stands under it, then lower it some, and then move to the back with the floor jack and do the same thing getting it low enough so I can slide the rails out of the way after lifting and putting the stands in place.

If anyone has a better way please chime in!

A bit of a pain in a$$ compared to the Quick Lift I had but I can store the rails out of the way.

[lnfletcher]

Originally Posted by pgermond

There is no way for the QuickJack to come down without weight on it so it makes it tricky getting the rails out of the way.
If anyone has a better way please chime in!

A bit of a pain in a$$ compared to the Quick Lift I had but I can store the rails out of the way.

You must not have the correct air pressure set because they will go down without weight on them, that is the purpose of pressurizing the tubes.

If I have to do extensive work underneath, I also use it as a jack and then use jack stands.

From the Quickjack site "The small air cylinders welded to the sides of the main hydraulic cylinders act like air springs. Because the static weight of the lifting frames is minimal, the air cylinders assist lowering the frames after the vehicle's tires touch the floor, or if the lift was ever raised with no load."
and
"Inflate each air bottle cylinder between 40-50 psi. Be sure to pull the connector off quickly to minimize air loss and don’t forget to replace the dust caps as they help to retain air. The cylinders will require periodic recharging."

Mine does go down easily without weight.

[pgermond]

Originally Posted by lnfletcher

You must not have the correct air pressure set because they will go down without weight on them, that is the purpose of pressurizing the tubes.

If I have to do extensive work underneath, I also use it as a jack and then use jack stands.

From the Quickjack site "The small air cylinders welded to the sides of the main hydraulic cylinders act like air springs. Because the static weight of the lifting frames is minimal, the air cylinders assist lowering the frames after the vehicle's tires touch the floor, or if the lift was ever raised with no load."
and
"Inflate each air bottle cylinder between 40-50 psi. Be sure to pull the connector off quickly to minimize air loss and don’t forget to replace the dust caps as they help to retain air. The cylinders will require periodic recharging."

Mine does go down easily without weight.

Larry, That news to me. I always check/inflate the cylinders. I'll give it a try next time I use them and post the results. In the meantime - thanks!

[pgermond]

"The small air cylinders welded to the sides of the main hydraulic cylinders act like air springs. Because the static weight of the lifting frames is minimal, the air cylinders assist lowering the frames after the vehicle's tires touch the floor, or if the lift was ever raised with no load."
and
"Inflate each air bottle cylinder between 40-50 psi. Be sure to pull the connector off quickly to minimize air loss and don’t forget to replace the dust caps as they help to retain air. The cylinders will require periodic recharging."

Larry,

Can you provide a link to this information?

[ACHiPo]

Originally Posted by pgermond

The only issue I have with my QuickJack is being able to move around under the car. So much so, that I lower it on to jack stands. Not for the fear of the QuickJack coming down (used properly it is very secure), but to be able work on it from underneath the car. There is no way for the QuickJack to come down without weight on it so it makes it tricky getting the rails out of the way. I have to use a floor jack on the front to lift the car enough to put jack stands under it, then lower it some, and then move to the back with the floor jack and do the same thing getting it low enough so I can slide the rails out of the way after lifting and putting the stands in place.

If anyone has a better way please chime in!

A bit of a pain in a$$ compared to the Quick Lift I had but I can store the rails out of the way.

What they said...

Check the air pressure in the assist cylinders. As I recall it needs to be 50 psi, and if the pressure is correct the QuickJack will raise and lower with no weight on it.

[RockBit]

I purchased and installed a Maxjax two post low rise lift to work on my car. It has 6,000 lb capacity, raises up to 4 feet, works in an 8 foot ceiling garage, and allows complete access to the underneath side of the car. It was fairly easy to install and is very secure. This lift is on sale right now at $1599 with free shipping, the normal price is $1899.

This system can be removed easily if you need it out of the way. I sit on a rolling stool when working under the car which works out well.

You have to make sure your concrete slab meets at least the minimum requirements. Mine did.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by RockBit

I purchased and installed a Maxjax two post low rise lift to work on my car. It has 6,000 lb capacity, raises up to 4 feet, works in an 8 foot ceiling garage, and allows complete access to the underneath side of the car. It was fairly easy to install and is very secure. This lift is on sale right now at $1599 with free shipping, the normal price is $1899.

This system can be removed easily if you need it out of the way. I sit on a rolling stool when working under the car which works out well.

You have to make sure your concrete slab meets at least the minimum requirements. Mine did.

And the thread has been hijacked...

[lnfletcher]

Originally Posted by pgermond

"The small air cylinders welded to the sides of the main hydraulic cylinders act like air springs. Because the static weight of the lifting frames is minimal, the air cylinders assist lowering the frames after the vehicle's tires touch the floor, or if the lift was ever raised with no load."
and
"Inflate each air bottle cylinder between 40-50 psi. Be sure to pull the connector off quickly to minimize air loss and don’t forget to replace the dust caps as they help to retain air. The cylinders will require periodic recharging."

Larry,

Can you provide a link to this information?

Under "What do the air cylinders do"

https://www.quickjack.com/explore/fr...#air-cylinders

[Moriarty]

Originally Posted by Moriarty

The lifts themselves need to be inset under the car since they are too long to fit between the front and rear wheels.

lnfletcher is right - the 3500 fits between the front and rear tires just fine.. it's that the frame is a ways inboard that winds up resulting in very little room between them. I need to remember to bias toward the outside rather than centering everything up. I leave them pushed together under the car when not in use usually.

When mine arrived, the schrader valves on both needed to be replaced for the air cylinders to hold pressure. I emailed QuickJack and they sent replacements valves right away, which were trivial to install.

[ACHiPo]

I'm wondering if it would work to fabricate some cross members out of heavy-walled rectangular steel tubing that would allow the jacks to be outboard or at least between the tires?

[lnfletcher]

Originally Posted by ACHiPo

I'm wondering if it would work to fabricate some cross members out of heavy-walled rectangular steel tubing that would allow the jacks to be outboard or at least between the tires?

Instead of that, just use it as a jack and put jack stands under the corners, then remove the Quickjack. This is what I do when I need a lot of room or plan on getting heavy handed on something underneath.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by lnfletcher

Instead of that, just use it as a jack and put jack stands under the corners, then remove the Quickjack. This is what I do when I need a lot of room or plan on getting heavy handed on something underneath.

Agreed - seems like a simple solution. I have a set of 6 ton stands that extend to nearly 24" - should work fine.