Superformance buying tips?

[saki302]

Hello all!

It's been a while since I've been on the Cobra forums after I sold my FFR Mk3.

I'm most likely going to pick up a SPF cobra soon. The price is right (low 40s), although it has higher mileage (30K range).


There's some road chipping in the front, and it could use a thorough wash and polish, but seems mechanically sound.
The paint being what it is means I can only make it better, and I won't scream at the kids if they touch it
My FFR was in a beautiful candy apple red, which would swirl if you so much as looked at it sideways. The ladies loved it though


Are there any points I should check out before purchase or during the final test drive? I'm more familiar with the FFR chassis.


Upon just sitting in it, the car is much more solid feeling than the FFR. The doors feel solid by comparison. It checks all the boxes my FFR did not (427 small block, IRS, real knockoffs, no power steering mess to deal with).


Any tips or advice would be welcome


PS- the car only has lap belts, so first order of business would be a 4 or 5 point harness setup

Thanks!

-Dave

[Sawdust]

Aside from checking any fluid leaks I would definitely look at the tires (age) even if there is lots of tread the tires might be 7+ years old. Also ask if the current owner has done the rear upper shock mount upgrade. Check for maintenance records. Compression test on the engine.

Good luck!

[Mark IV]

The SPF has mounts in place for shoulder harnesses so that's an easy upgrade. What is the chassis number? If you PM me the number we can give you a list of things to check.


In general you need to look at the things you would check on any car, damage, maintenance, etc. There are a few SPF specific items you will want to look at, none of which are expensive to rectify/upgrade.

We would be glad to help you with this car. Fully 50% of the communications we have with customers is for cars we did not sell. You will find a supportive community of SPF owners who will gladly help you and for even more fun, participate in numerous driving and social events.

[hauss]

Not sure but 40k sounds like I would be looking at paperwork ??? sbc 100 cert can be a real pain.I was looking last 2 years and wanted a superformance and in the price range you are speaking I always found issues.That said I do like the superformance but for your money I found the backdraft to be the best. FYI they all have their problems so I am not saying one is better than the other I am just saying better bang for your buck with the Backdraft.

[snapier]

Be sure to check that the rear suspension mounts are at 90 degree. Place a 90 degree square on the mount and frame and if not at 90 degrees I would recommend that you purchase a Suspension Mount UPGRADE kit from Cobra valley before the car is involved in an accident.

[saki302]

Mark- PM sent!

Hauss- I did see the SB100 decal in the engine bay. It's not shiny and clean as I would keep one, but I don't see evidence of abuse or rubber burnouts. Easier to hide on a clean car vs a consistent dust layer


I have a feeling the stone chips, dust, and mileage are keeping the price down. Most of it would be fixed in an afternoon of wash bucket / wax effort

I still have my FFR wash supplies, optimum no rinse, Klasse polish and overcoat I can't be bothered to put the Klasse effort into my truck or my wife's van!!

I read about the rear suspension mounts- that and 4 point harnesses would be my first purchase.


Tires I'll take a closer look at. They *feel* okay, still supple. Not hard like my truck tires from '14 (need to swap out this year).

-Dave

[hauss]

Just verifi the all is good with the documents that"s all I am saying. look for spiderwebs in the fenders {not a easy fix}.$$$ That being said I do like the superformance just like my 427 stroker carbon fiber dash 17" rims bmw IRS backdraft New condition better.

[saki302]

hauss- I was bidding on a nice backdraft on the BAT auction site, but it went way over my budget. Beautiful build with EFI stacks. If I won that I'd just sit in the garage and stare at the motor!

[Ron61]

Hauss- I did see the SB100 decal in the engine bay.

What I did when I bought mine was call the DMV in Sacramento and tell them I was thinking of buying the car but I wanted to verify the SB-100 registration. They asked for the license number and ran it and told me that it was good and I need not worry about anything.A quick and easy way to find out as there have been a couple of frauds around here concerning that.

Ron

[1795]

A few stone chips are nothing, it actually takes the stress away after the first one; now you don't have to worry. 30,000 miles is a good sign, the car has been driven and sorted out. I would be more concerned with a car with less than a couple thousand miles. I have seen people put 80-100,000 miles on an SPF. Good luck in your decision making.

Jim

[kayakjack]

25,000 miles on my Superformance. Solid as a rock. Great support from other owners. Great support from Superformance. Getting a Superformance was a smart decision.

Jack

[saki302]

I'm still surprised how solid the doors felt compared to my FFR, which was well built.


And somehow the interior feels more real... Maybe it's the dust and honest use too


Seller told me it doesn't like cold idle (seemed ok, he had to hold light throttle for a minute). My FFR with 4150 didn't either- I rigged the choke cable to work as an 'idle up'- this one doesn't have a provision for it on the carb or I'd do the same.


I'll let everyone know if it all goes well Friday. It's going to be too wet to test and buy around here til then.


Any recommendations for oil weight on the Roush 427 SB? And Tremec TKO600 trans?


I'd put some fresh fluids just to get a base for my own rotation (and space it a bit from our daily drivers so I'm not doing 3 oil changes in a row).

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by saki302

I'm still surprised how solid the doors felt compared to my FFR, which was well built.


And somehow the interior feels more real... Maybe it's the dust and honest use too


Seller told me it doesn't like cold idle (seemed ok, he had to hold light throttle for a minute). My FFR with 4150 didn't either- I rigged the choke cable to work as an 'idle up'- this one doesn't have a provision for it on the carb or I'd do the same.


I'll let everyone know if it all goes well Friday. It's going to be too wet to test and buy around here til then.


Any recommendations for oil weight on the Roush 427 SB? And Tremec TKO600 trans?


I'd put some fresh fluids just to get a base for my own rotation (and space it a bit from our daily drivers so I'm not doing 3 oil changes in a row).

Roush specs 10W-30 for the SR engines.

TKO uses GM synchromesh or Dexron III ATF. See http://www.tremec.com/anexos/TRPM-TKO-0711_145.pdf for more info

[Blas]

There are 5 versions of the wiring on the MKIII chassis over the years. There earliest version did not include a master fuse for protecting the charging system. A worthwhile (and inexpensive) addition if the chassis number is below 1040. No major reasons to choose one chassis series over the other. Since the car you are looking at is motored-up. The different cowl height should be of little concern unless you plan on changing engines at some point. Windshields vary in design over time. Brakes and differentials also changed over the years. Cold idle could be a lack of choke (manual or electric) Quite typical installation without. None on mine. Tire age and rear shock mounts should be looked in as a simple safety issue. Neither are deal breakers.
Blas

[hauss]

Sounds to me you have already made your choice,just listen to ron 61 good and easy advice.Hope to see you at some shows or events, post some pics when you get a chance.

[sea2jet]

Check the roll bar mount to make sure it's not still pop riveted in.

[saki302]

I saw the roll bar bolt mod- that's an easy and fun project if it needs to be done.

Chassis number is in the low 2000s.

I miss the FFR events, I took my Mk3 to a couple. It'll be fun to get out again

I'll keep you all posted and get pics up if the deal goes through. My friends ask me 'you sure you want another one?'..
The two toys I miss after the kids came- the Cobra and my Husqvarna 510 SMR

The cobras also pass the kid approval test. I showed them photos of all the contenders for dad's toy car. You already know what kids like

-Dave

[hauss]

Originally Posted by saki302

I saw the roll bar bolt mod- that's an easy and fun project if it needs to be done.

Chassis number is in the low 2000s.

I miss the FFR events, I took my Mk3 to a couple. It'll be fun to get out again

I'll keep you all posted and get pics up if the deal goes through. My friends ask me 'you sure you want another one?'..
The two toys I miss after the kids came- the Cobra and my Husqvarna 510 SMR

The cobras also pass the kid approval test. I showed them photos of all the contenders for dad's toy car. You already know what kids like

-Dave

MY boy"s all left California,so I had to keep my ktm 350 six days, my honda goldwing,and purchase a Cobra. Just to help me not to miss them so much. I don't know what the hell I"m going to do if my daughter leaves .

[SteelCobra]

Lot's of opportunities for joining in on drives with the Superformance Owners group. Bought my Superformance 2 years ago, and I love every minute of driving the car with these folks. You may want to reach out to an owner in your area. We are always looking for reasons to go look at cars. Owners can really help on what to look for on these cars, and what to keep eye on. I drove various models, and in my mind nothing compares to the Superformance product.

Dave

[saki302]

So... I bought it

I did the quick tests my mechanic friend told me (check each header pipe at the head and look for even temperatures), look for leaks, etc. Only found a couple minor faults-

The speedo bounces about 10mph above 65. I can live with it, unless it's an easy fix.

The right inner CV boot is torn- any advice or tips on where to buy it, how to swap it? I did some quick research and it seems the thing just pries / pops off when you remove the suspension end bit.
Should I just replace the boot, or buy a replacement shaft?

The driver's side valve cover grommet on top weeps a tiny bit of oil. Enough to do an impression of a valve cover gasket leak. Just have to wipe it down occasionally.


The good- it already has the reinforced rear shock tower pieces. I'm not sure if the suspension was upgraded (I don't have a receipt for the towers), but it's a little firm for the street. About how I like it.

Tires will need replacement. It's a shame as the tread is still decent- they're mfrd in 2009, and a bit hard. It spun so easy I bumped rev limit on the 2-3 shift


I will have to drill and tap the infamous sway bar rivet.


I'll get some pics up later. I still have that old car gas smell on me. I missed that

Seller suggested I do the CV boot very soon so it doesn't wear the joint. Older Navy man, very no-nonsense, I liked him