bronze gears

[hauss]

Ok then if you do not know what material your cam is what would be the best gear to purchase ?

[Gaz64]

Is it a roller camshaft or flat tappet camshaft?

[blykins]

Easiest way to tell is to put up a spec sheet of the engine, or better yet, the cam card. You could also call the builder and ask what/which cam it is.

Second easiest way is to pull the distributor out and shoot us a picture of the cam. Cast core camshafts, even rollers, are very rough between the lobes, because they...…..are...…..cast...…… Billet cams are made of a billet of steel and have a more machined appearance.

[wolf k]

You guys are inferring that pulling and reinstalling distributor gears is a piece of cake. In theory, can't you do it only twice? Have to install new gear with the roll pin 90 degree from the old roll pin hole and drill new hole.
Or, are you somehow lining up the roll pin hole on the new gear with existing hole in shaft?

[blykins]

I only like to do it twice, including the original gear install. I've never had an issue doing it that way.

Trying to line up the pin hole with a press fit gear, while simultaneously making sure the gear is installed with the correct dimension is almost impossible.

To everyone reading this, Ford has a dimensional tolerance, measured from the bottom face of the gear to the distributor flange. This has to be held, or you will get wear on the gear or on the engine block itself. There's a different spec on whether the end play is taken out or present when you measure.

For instance, on a SBF MSD distributor, you push the shaft towards the rotor, taking out the end play, and the spec should be 3.995-4.005". An FE has a different dimension, 3.045-3.050". A BBF uses a Cleveland distributor, which uses the SBF dimension.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by hauss

Ok then if you do not know what material your cam is what would be the best gear to purchase ?

If it were me, I would not rely on a build sheet or cam card unless I was absolutely 100% positive it was correct. Even then, I would still pull the distributor out and post a hi-res shot for the geniuses on this forum to opine on. You've got to pull the distributor anyway, regardless, so snap a pic and post it -- what's the downside of that? The last thing you want is to think you have a beautiful steel roller, when really you have an old iron flat tappet like me.

[lnfletcher]

Originally Posted by blykins

To everyone reading this, Ford has a dimensional tolerance, measured from the bottom face of the gear to the distributor flange. This has to be held, or you will get wear on the gear or on the engine block itself. There's a different spec on whether the end play is taken out or present when you measure.

For instance, on a SBF MSD distributor, you push the shaft towards the rotor, taking out the end play, and the spec should be 3.995-4.005". An FE has a different dimension, 3.045-3.050". A BBF uses a Cleveland distributor, which uses the SBF dimension.

If the tolerance is not right, it will also heat up the shaft of the distributor and cause the electronics to fail over and over again. Don't ask how I know this!

What I don't understand, why ask the question, then get good advise and not be willing to follow it?

[hauss]

You guys crack me up.MSD. says nickle copper alloy [bronze]. The fist one will wear right away the next should go for at least 75k.This was quoted from a engine builder on the net. Just for ****s and giggles I will pull the distributor and send you all a picture of my old bronze gear.

[blykins]

Yeah, that makes perfect sense.

Bronze gears are for GM products.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by hauss

You guys crack me up.MSD. says nickle copper alloy [bronze]. The fist one will wear right away the next should go for at least 75k.This was quoted from a engine builder on the net. Just for ****s and giggles I will pull the distributor and send you all a picture of my old bronze gear.

Or just leave the bronze gear in there. I love a good engine rebuild thread.

[hauss]

My computer is a total pain, can not find files, for posting so it may take me a few days to get you all the pictures of the gear .may take me a few days but I promise I will get around to it once I pull out the distributor.

[Gaz64]

Pics of the distributor gear are not important, it is the camshaft type (roller or flat tappet) that we need to see here.

Do you have roller lifters or flat tappet lifters?

[ERA 626]

guys I don't understand why this is a 2 page thread? what is the cam spec?

[pormgb]

Originally Posted by hauss

I am going to stay with the bronze and check on it every 6 months The car is race car that just dosen"t get used everyday or on a track very often

I installed a Mallory distributor with a bronze gear before I knew better. I happen to change my oil a few short drives after installing the new distributor. Well, my oil was like a gold rush, and I wondered what all that shiny stuff was coming out of the engine. I pulled the distributor, and to my surprise, the bronze gear was all worn down. I pulled a steel gear off an old spare distributor, and many miles down the road and no issues. Believe me, it didn't take long to wear that bronze gear down, and it was a scary sight knowing that that gear is the key to oil pump movement. This is on a 352 4V with stock camshaft.

[hauss]

Originally Posted by ERA 626

guys I don't understand why this is a 2 page thread? what is the cam spec?

The car has hydraulic rollers . Their ain"t no info on the cam gear . That is why it has a bronze gear. I was thinking the new composite gear possibly but not sure. Given the fact that some if not most roller camshafts are made of billet I went with bronze witch folks around here hate. I was looking for a safe alternative which I do not believe steel is.I was told it would wear out the cam gear.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by hauss

I was looking for a safe alternative which I do not believe...

The only safe alternative with these cars is to sell 'em.

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by hauss

... I was looking for a safe alternative which I do not believe steel is.I was told it would wear out the cam gear.

Like Patrickt said, the only safe alternative is to sell the car.

You do have opinions and suggestions from a range of sources now — some very knowledgeable. All you have to do is choose the course of action you prefer.

If you choose wisely you will hear the congratulations from the advisors who provided the guidance. If you choose well, not so wisely, you will not only have the damaged parts and all the attendant clean up, fix up work but then there is the well, cat calls from those who tried to save you from that ignominious ending.

As the Knight Templar cautioned Indy, as he was noodling out which of the various cups before him was in fact the Holy Grail, "... choose wisely, he did not." The "he" that the Knight was referring to was the dead Nazi collaborator, now a pile of dust on the floor.

Like Indy, you have multiple choices before you — choose wisely, only one is right!


Ed

[hauss]

Just as I thought you guys are living out the wrong movie . Indy has no interest in bronze gears, and even less for the composite ones.

[patrickt]

You might be interested in the condition of the bronze gear, and the bronze particles, in this current thread over on the FE forum. A lot of good pics: https://www.fordfe.com/uh-oh-stroker...n-t163227.html

[hauss]

Ok as promised looks new 1500 miles!