Getting ready to pull heads

[incoming]

I'm a little late to the game here but here's my 2c worth. I've used non hardening Permatex on every paper and cork gasket I've set over thirty years. A super thin layer. My Shovelheads never marked their spot from the engine, only the chain oilers.

Before assembly, I always scrub everything down with alcohol to remove any oil residue.

[Danr55]

Interesting finding on my car. Excessive fuel had washed the oil off of the cylinder walls and worn the rings to nothing. Motor was using about 1 qt. every 300 miles. Be careful to run the right size carb or you could be right back in the same spot in short order.

[tortuga]

Originally Posted by Danr55

Interesting finding on my car. Excessive fuel had washed the oil off of the cylinder walls and worn the rings to nothing. Motor was using about 1 qt. every 300 miles. Be careful to run the right size carb or you could be right back in the same spot in short order.

XP 750 always lean, idle screws 7/8-1 turn, small jets, annular boosters, no choke...

Understand the damage rich mixture can do to the cylinders...

Thanks

Steve H
SP 1764

[NROTOXIN]

Did you install the annular boosters on the XP? Downlegs come on the 750 XPs from the factory.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by NROTOXIN

Did you install the annular boosters on the XP? Downlegs come on the 750 XPs from the factory.

Yes, that is correct.
But some of us have fitted annular boosters.
I have 12 hole billet annulars in my 850 XP.
Gary

[tortuga]

I'm thinking with shop rates here in Commiefornia up around 200/hr it only takes 50 man hours to burn through 10 grand, at which point you are probably half way through trying to fix a ($11K) problem engine with no guarantee of success?

I'm thinking it almost makes more sense to buy a COMPLETE SORTED TRURN-KEY engine and put this one on a stand to slowly go through it myself (with the help of machine shops)...

Problem is everyone has their favorite engine builder and the reviews range from wanting to let the guy marry his daughter to pending litigation.

I'm on the fence as to weather its time to just move on to something less mysterious? Sucks as i thought that a little car with a big simple engine would be really care free, but boy was i wrong...

Steve H
1764

[tortuga]

Originally Posted by NROTOXIN

Did you install the annular boosters on the XP? Downlegs come on the 750 XPs from the factory.

Quick Fuel Main body, and jetted down to match what their built 750 is with annulars as a baseline...Did it for drivability and throttle response.

[redmt]

2 highly recommended engine builders.
Bell & Gaines in Modesto and Brent Lykins in Kentucky.

[NROTOXIN]

Originally Posted by tortuga

Quick Fuel Main body, and jetted down to match what their built 750 is with annulars as a baseline...Did it for drivability and throttle response.

You took a 750 Ultra XP PN 0-80803 and replaced the main body with a Quick Fuel or was it some other Holley PN?

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by tortuga

I'm thinking with shop rates here in Commiefornia up around 200/hr it only takes 50 man hours to burn through 10 grand, at which point you are probably half way through trying to fix a ($11K) problem engine with no guarantee of success?

I'm thinking it almost makes more sense to buy a COMPLETE SORTED TRURN-KEY engine and put this one on a stand to slowly go through it myself (with the help of machine shops)...

Problem is everyone has their favorite engine builder and the reviews range from wanting to let the guy marry his daughter to pending litigation.

I'm on the fence as to weather its time to just move on to something less mysterious? Sucks as i thought that a little car with a big simple engine would be really care free, but boy was i wrong...

Steve H
1764

Steve, I appreciate the $200/hr burn rate out here in Commiefornia. You ought to talk to S&S about a flat rate to freshen up the engine and fix the leak. I think they might well do business on that basis.

The other alternative is a long ways away but one that has done well for everyone I sent there. I know the owner personally and he is quite impressive. They do a lot of Ford Modular and Coyote work and have had several Texas mile and drag racing superstars. Here is a link to the website => L&M Engines. The owner is Michael Rauscher. If it helps to start the conversation, you can tell him you found him through discussion with me.

Michael does all manner of performance engines but tends to focus on Fords and the Modular family engines including the Coyote. His 'bedside manner' is sort of like Sgt Joe Friday on the old Streets of San Francisco TV series — 'just the facts Ma'am'. That said his machining and work product are excellent. Using him does mean you are spending freight back and forth to Commiefornia.


Ed

[tortuga]

Originally Posted by eschaider

Steve, I appreciate the $200/hr burn rate out here in Commiefornia. You ought to talk to S&S about a flat rate to freshen up the engine and fix the leak. I think they might well do business on that basis.

The other alternative is a long ways away but one that has done well for everyone I sent there. I know the owner personally and he is quite impressive. They do a lot of Ford Modular and Coyote work and have had several Texas mile and drag racing superstars. Here is a link to the website => L&M Engines. The owner is Michael Rauscher. If it helps to start the conversation, you can tell him you found him through discussion with me.

Michael does all manner of performance engines but tends to focus on Fords and the Modular family engines including the Coyote. His 'bedside manner' is sort of like Sgt Joe Friday on the old Streets of San Francisco TV series — 'just the facts Ma'am'. That said his machining and work product are excellent. Using him does mean you are spending freight back and forth to Commiefornia.


Ed

S&S have gone the private machine shop route, only preferred racers can do business there now i guess...Kind of like what Morgan's was like before they folded...

[FredG]

Aerobic or anaerobic?

Originally Posted by blykins

Yeah, I don’t care what the gasket makers say. Use sealant or you’ll be doing it again.

Glue the gaskets to the heads, set the intake on overnight to mash the gaskets down, then come back with another layer of sealant, lay beads for china walls, then bolt it down.

Tightening the intake down isn’t causing your problems.

[blykins]

I use Dow Corning 732.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by NROTOXIN

You took a 750 Ultra XP PN 0-80803 and replaced the main body with a Quick Fuel or was it some other Holley PN?

That's what I did to my 80804. New annular banjos, 12 hole BLP billet booster inserts. Of course it helps if you have all the tools, easy job. All 4 are level to each other in all directions. Holley can't get that right.

[NROTOXIN]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

That's what I did to my 80804. New annular banjos, 12 hole BLP billet booster inserts. Of course it helps if you have all the tools, easy job. All 4 are level to each other in all directions. Holley can't get that right.

You changed just the boosters correct? He changed the the main body on a ultra XP with a main body from Quickfuel. I'm just curious why.

Where did you get your annulars from?

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by NROTOXIN

You changed just the boosters correct? He changed the the main body on a ultra XP with a main body from Quickfuel. I'm just curious why.

Where did you get your annulars from?

Yes, still looks like a Holley XP, 80804 main body, float bowls etc.

Holley banjos are from one ebay seller in the US:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holley-Q...MAAOSwJ65e0kZe

and the inserts are direct from BLP:
https://blp.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65

Or you can go this way:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holley-Q...frcectupt=true

And you also need the booster installation tool, which for annulars requires the additional adaptor.