11-04-2020, 02:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: TACOMA,
WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett Morrision FE 427 so 2-4s
Posts: 2,025
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Not Ranked
Good luck> I bought my replica used. The header were wrapped with fiberglass tape. It did a great in keeping the heat away from the foot boxes. BUT the headers were just one crack after another. I was able to drive the car home from Hot August Nights to Tacoma WA on a trip permit. THE HEADERS BLEW OUT AT #7, first elbow out of the header flange. fiberglass fuzz every The rest of the header pipes were All cracks no defined place to start or , if ever, to stop. Both headers were one piece units from the head to the end of the side pipe turn out, they were 2' tubes and # 5 went up and over the steering shaft. I tried to have a local exhaust shop known for making headers up in Auburn to make new headers. I trailered the car up and they didn't want to even start. as they were busy doing just regular exhaust and mufflers. I contacted the original manufacture Everett-Morrison (back in 2000) when they were in Florida. They had a header jig and gave me instructions to box my headers up and send them . They welded the headers together before they cutting the headers into separate pieces headers to turn out and collector, side pipe- mufflers and turn out-tail elbow. They shipped the old and new pieces to me in Washington. Their headers were headers from head to near the side of the car with a 4 pipe flange to connect to the go through the car side and turn backward to the collector. that was the point where 4 main pieces. and were 1 7/8 tubing . the headers all went under the steering shaft now. I had a problem . the jig they used was for engine centered and my engine was off centered. when first mounting the flat 4 pipe flanges locations to the side of the cars body were the problem. One side the header were too long and the other side was too short. pipe hit the inside and the other side the collectors were against the rocker. I had to send the too long side and have that headers shortened and the other side I used thick copper plates made into gaskets 1/2" thick to shim the turn out and collectors away from the rocker. They used header flanges with the FE dual exhaust bolt pattern (over under for old and Galaxy - Truck engines and the Fairlane- Mustang front and back bolt patterns. That part worked great and I was able to use 14 bolts per side. That and copper header gaskets no leaks. The collector to muffler connections I used SS "V" flange and clamps and the muffler to turn out exhaust tips. The mufflers were the round (Bullet shaped) with smaller pipe in and out. I didn't like the lengths as the exhaust tips were at or near the rear door seams. So I bought a 10 ft. length of 3 1/2" galvanized exhaust pipe then cut into short lengths to add to the collector , both ends of the mufflers exhaust pipe to lengthen the units and then the SS "V" flanges. I discovered the mufflers supplied were no the "Low Back) mufflers I had paid an up charge for. I had Oxygen sensor bungs and bolting provisions for "Car Chemistry" noise reducers in the collectors. Using mild steel and SS caused me to need TIGG welding. worrying about noise tickets, I felt I needed to be able to change things later if needed I ended up using most of the mild steel exhaust pipe I bought I sand blasted most of the Galvanize off the exhaust pipe pieces. I had enough pipe left to make empty muffler look alike. So I ended up with sets of mufflers and set of empty look a like mufflers that can all be changed with a wrench. The turn out tips are closer to the rear tires Since there was no non metal in any of it and the pieces were short enough to fit in the cabinet, I was able to have everything ceramic coated shiny aluminum. If I were so inclined I could actually eliminate the mufflers and connect turn out tips to the collectors. I have not had an ticket yet.
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Mike H
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