1 1/2" OD Cobra steering wheel horn button center emblem

[Michael C Henry]

I bought the "Flash Power" 9 bolt steering wheel with their horn button kit. Their horn button center has two recesses, the inner one smaller but deeper about 1" diameter I think intended for their small logo, and a outer larger more shallow but with a 1/1/2" diameter. I want a Cobra emblem for the steering wheel horn button center. I found and bought a Scott Drake emblem and it was 1 3/8" OD with no adhesive at all. It leaves a 1/16" all the way around. I went to Scott Drakes web site looking for a larger Cobra emblem and there was a a photo with no dimensions or details. I'm betting it was the insert emblem I have already bought. Any input?
I found a look a like horn button a Volante S9 look so much like my horn but my horn mechanism has screws rather than rivets.

[Michael C Henry]

No responses. I flooded the smaller recess with" Gorilla Clear Glue" in two stages to get the recess filled and level. I judged fluid levels by the glare off the surface. The" "Scott Drake" 1 3/8"OD emblem insert was the only emblem close in size, available. I filled the smaller recess of the horn button to form a surface even with the larger 1 1/2" recess so emblem emblem will be supported and have maximum adhesive contact area, I had to set the horn button on a canning jar lid ring so the pool of glue would sit and dry in a level position. I then covered the drying horn button with a upside down SS dog bowl I have to keep hands off and floating debris out.. The one video I found showed the clear "3M" film on back being peeled away to expose a contact adhesive on the emblem's back. Time will tell.

[Michael C Henry]

The "GORILLA CLEAR GLUE" is a product I discovered just a couple of years ago. I had done the "Super Glue", and the Urethane glue with the foam up and clean up routine. The Gorilla Clear Glue Is a clear, thick honey like fluid. No strong smells from off gassing. Seems to air dry slowly without a lot of mass loss, becoming rubbery and not hard. If you get any on your TEE shirt, It does not come out. The spots are stiffer than the shirt material with out glue but not so uncomfortable that you have to cut out those spots I get glue on everything as a rule. Make sure you keep putting the cap on the bottle when done, the bottle easily to knock over and it comes out slowly. I tend to notice the mess too late to benefit. I have used a razor blade window scraper to remove drips I made on the kitchen table. I have several just for work shirts now.

[patrickt]

We're withholding judgment until a pic is presented.

[Michael C Henry]

For now it seemed to work. I discovered that the later layer of the glue did not completely fuse with older cured layer. of glue. It could be separated with some effort. Just as well as I had added too much on the second and third layers were removed. The Gorilla Clear Glue dries to form a somewhat hard but rubbery layer. it does not scrape or sand worth a crap but it can be cut with a razor blade. I went back and added a small quantity of glue centered on the first, let it start to dry with a skin and then forced the emblem upon the soft mass, forming a slight mound that fits the curvature of the back of the emblem and let it cure. The horn button center was left with a mostly flat 1 1/2" shallow recess with a slight bulge in the center that fit the convex back of the 1 3/8" OD round "Scott Drake" Cobra emblem - insert. The Emblem has a layer of contact adhesive with a peel off 3M tape cover on the back. After the glue was set up i removed the emblem as the non stick peel off material was no fused to the glue. I peeled the non stick 3M layer off the emblem exposing the contact adhesive. I centered the emblem and applied with pressure. It looks like a factory original.