solid lifter flat tappet engine oil?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by 1795

I ran VR1 20/50 in my 289 race engine with a roller cam and there were never any issues that were oil related.

Naaah, go with BradPenn (the old Kendall), it's good for 2,000 miles.

[1795]

Patrick,

Brad Penn is what I am running now in the new race engine, 15-40. Works really well.

Jim

[Morris]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Uhhh, but how often do you factor in tear downs and rebuilds as just a common matter of course?

Patrick

We have only rebuilt the motor once and have been driving it on the street.....although it is a task.....just unruly.....

[Grubby]

Originally Posted by Sycraft

any disadvantage to running VR1 in a roller engine? cost not an issue..

My engine builder suggests VR-1 conventional for my recent FE roller build.

John

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Grubby

My engine builder suggests VR-1 conventional for my recent FE roller build.

John

When an FE even sees a fully synthetic oil it starts to wet the floor.

[1795]

Originally Posted by patrickt

When an FE even sees a fully synthetic oil it starts to wet the floor.

As opposed to any other oil that an FE drops on the floor?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by 1795

As opposed to any other oil that an FE drops on the floor?

Ever since I installed the diapers on her the only drops that are ever on the floor are from the zerk fittings. She's dry as a bone.

[saltshaker]

Not sure what he thought he saw on the web but I got 18qts of regular VR1 oil
Not synthetic oil
Jon

[TexasSnake]

I have been running 15-50 Mobil 1 in a flat tapper FE for many years without any additives or issues.

[Argess]

Originally Posted by TexasSnake

I have been running 15-50 Mobil 1 in a flat tapper FE for many years without any additives or issues.

Same here.

Also, I have heard that the zinc is important until the engine is broken in and then zincless oil is OK. I tend to believe it, but have no real evidence, just internet opinions.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Argess

Also, I have heard that the zinc is important until the engine is broken in and then zincless oil is OK. I tend to believe it, but have no real evidence, just internet opinions.

If you have a SFT cam that has been nicely broken in, has gentle ramps, reasonable lift and springs that aren't too heavy then you might be right. The only way you would know for sure is to swap out your healthy ZDDP oil for the newer zincless oil and then waited to see if you ate a lobe or not. Remember, the reason ZDDP was removed from oil is that it damages the catalytic converter. If you don't have a CC on your car there is no reason to avoid ZDDP, which is an absolutely wonderful anti-wear agent.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by patrickt

If you have a SFT cam that has been nicely broken in, has gentle ramps, reasonable lift and springs that aren't too heavy then you might be right. The only way you would know for sure is to swap out your healthy ZDDP oil for the newer zincless oil and then waited to see if you ate a lobe or not. Remember, the reason ZDDP was removed from oil is that it damages the catalytic converter. If you don't have a CC on your car there is no reason to avoid ZDDP, which is an absolutely wonderful anti-wear agent.

ZDDP is a wonderful anti-wear agent, but it's worth noting other anti-wear agents are used by the oil industry as ZDDP is reduced. API's tests still include flat tappet testing for all oils, including current versions (e.g. SM, SN and SP).

BTW, I've been running 5W30 full synthetic in a HFT engine for 7 years with no ill effects (so far). Dual springs with dampers and 300 lbs open spring pressure. That's not to say someone with a SFT cam and 500 lb spring pressures would have the same experience.