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Old 06-21-2023, 03:54 AM
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Default Timing for Ford 351W

Hi there,

I was wondering if anyone could advise me on what the correct timing should be ford a Ford 351 Windsor with Edelbrock headers and carbs?

Have a bit of an overheating issue only when stationary and this is one of the things that I am looking into.

Many thanks,
Alex
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Old 06-21-2023, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackmamba View Post
Hi there,

I was wondering if anyone could advise me on what the correct timing should be ford a Ford 351 Windsor with Edelbrock headers and carbs?

Have a bit of an overheating issue only when stationary and this is one of the things that I am looking into.

Many thanks,
Alex
Since you really did not give us any real information (IE: engine specs, cam specs, what intake, what carb, etc) get yourself a vacuum gauge and use that for setting your initial timing and base tuning the carb.

The following will give you a decent overview of the process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBbD_JlKBGY

Bill S.
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Old 06-21-2023, 07:32 AM
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They like alot of initial, say 15-18, and limit total to about 32. Assuming you are using an MSD dizz, you can buy larger limit bushings from 4 seconds flat that limit the total amount of mechanical advance so that you can run alot of initial without going too high on total.
By no means an expert but thats what ive learned. I run 18 initial and 32 total with a 600HP 433 stroker with Ford racing z304P heads, BIG juice cam, and 10.7:1 or so compression.
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Old 06-21-2023, 07:35 AM
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They like alot of initial, say 15-18, and limit total to about 32. Assuming you are using an MSD dizz, you can buy larger limit bushings from 4 seconds flat that limit the total amount of mechanical advance so that you can run alot of initial without going too high on total.
By no means an expert but thats what ive learned. I run 18 initial and 32 total with a 600HP 433 stroker with Ford racing z304P heads, BIG juice cam, and 10.7:1 or so compression.
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Old 06-21-2023, 05:21 PM
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Did you use studs or bolts on your headers? Were the headers torqued down, and what was the torquing pattern you used? Did you retorque the headers after the first start? Are your wheels bolt-on, or are they held on by tri-wing spinners? If they are held on by spinners, did you use any anti-seize, how much, and what brand? Did you use a brush to apply the anti-seize? Do you torque your spark lugs? What did you torque them to?

Inquiring minds want to know ...
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Old 06-21-2023, 08:11 PM
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Overheating can be something as simple as a malfunctioning thermostat, to lean carb setting, failure of cooling fans to turn on. I would start eliminating the above one by one.
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Old 06-22-2023, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackmamba View Post
Hi there,

I was wondering if anyone could advise me on what the correct timing should be ford a Ford 351 Windsor with Edelbrock headers and carbs?

Many thanks,
Alex
proper timing consists of two parts, and sometimes a third.

Base timing is set with the engine at idle. Turn the distributer until you get the highest vacuum reading. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, place a glass of water on the cowl, and set the timing where the water is smoothest.

Then when the engine is hot, turn the engine off, and then start it again. If it seems to struggle a bit, it's too much advance. Back it off a couple of degrees until it starts smoothly.

Mechanical Advance is the second part, and is part of the internal mechanism of the distributor. Most Windsors do well with a total of about 34*, all in by about 2,500-3,000 rpm's or so. Whatever your base timing is, subtract that from 34, and set your mechanical advance there.

Then go drive the car. Do some part and full throttle accelerations to 3,500 rpm's in 4th gear. If you get any knocking, back off the mechanical timing a couple of degrees.

The third part is vacuum advance. That is mostly to improve fuel mileage at light throttle cruise. Most performance distributers do not include this.
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Old 06-22-2023, 04:33 PM
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Hi all. Thanks for the replies. I sent a post a while back after the first response with my full tech spec list when I purchased the car in 2017 but it said I had to wait for moderators to approve the post. I'll try again.

I'll respond to all the posts tomorrow morning. It's quite late here in the UK now (nearly midnight)

PRECISION MACHINED FORD 351W BLOCK

MICRO-POLISHED & DEBURRED NODULAR CRANKSHAFT

SHOT PEEN HARDENED & STRESS RELIEVED CONNECTING RODS W/ 190,00 PSI ARP BOLTS

HYPEREUTECTIC HEAVY DUTY PISTONS 9.7 TO 1 COMPRESSION

SPEED PRO PISTON RINGS

3 PIECE STEEL ROLLER STYLE TIMING CHAIN

Xtreme Energy Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Camshaft

NEW MELLING OIL PUMP AND SCREEN

EDELBROCK RPM ALUMINUM HEADS 60cc COMBUSTION CHAMBER

STAINLESS STEEL SWIRL POLISHED INTAKE VALVES

STAINLESS STEEL SWIRL POLISHED EXHAUST VALVES

COMP CAMS MAGNUM ROLLER 1.6 RATIO ROCKERS

HARD SEATS FOR UNLEADED OR REGULAR FUEL

HEAVY DUTY 1.45 DIAMETER VALVE SPRINGS, 7 DEGREE LOCKS

NEW HEAVY DUTY CHROME MOLY PUSH RODS

NEW CHROME FRONT SUMP 5 QUART OIL PAN

ALUMINUM TIMING CHAIN COVER WITH SCALE

FORD COBRA BLACK WRINKLED ALUMINUM VALVE COVERS

HEAVY DUTY SFI APPROVED STANDARD FLYWHEEL

NEW EDELBROCK PERFORMER RPM DUAL PLANE INTAKE MANIFOLD

NEW 4 BARREL 650 CFM EDELBROCK CARBURETOR WITH ELECTRIC CHOKE

HIGH VOLTAGE ELECTRONIC PERTRONIX BILLET DISTRIBUTOR AND COIL

8 MM ACCEL SILICONE WIRES

NEW CHROME THERMOSTAT HOUSING

NEW FUEL AND WATER PUMP

CHROME DIP TUBE AND DIPSTICK

NEW BLACK WRINKLED COBRA OVAL AIR CLEANER WITH PCV VENTILATION SYSTEM

NEW FUEL LINES AND GAS FILTER

HOT RUN TESTED INCLUDES SETTING INITIAL AND FULL TIMING ADVANCE

CHROME ONE WIRE HOOK UP 100 AMP ALTERNATOR

MARCH POLISHED PULLEYS AND CHROME BRACKETS

NEW V-BELT INSTALLED AND TENSION ADJUSTED

BALANCED, BLUE PRINTED, ASSEMBLED BY ASE TECHNICIANS

Last edited by Blackmamba; 06-22-2023 at 04:36 PM..
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Old 06-22-2023, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
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HIGH VOLTAGE ELECTRONIC PERTRONIX BILLET DISTRIBUTOR AND COIL
Can you check to see which limiter is installed in the distributor?
#6 is for 12 degrees
#8 is for 16 degrees
#10 is for 20 degrees

Also, do you have a control module wired (plugged) in to the distributor, or just regular coil? It will make a difference, for if you have a control module, you'll set you initial timing lower than if you have a regular coil.

If regular coil, you might even want to set the timing using a vacuum gauge instead of a timing light.


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