Who owns a Contemporary?

[bmalone]

Thanks Roger for the list and thanks Dominik for the research.

[Tom T.]

Mine was built around 1988, I bought it in 1996, and have gone through the entire car, essentially. Latest major upgrade was a complete CWI irs.

Tom Thompson

[concobra]

CCX-3-3720

[Brent Mills]

Also, you can do a member search and then go to advanced and see actually search for "Contemporary" under cobra make & engine. A couple pages worth of members will show up. Give it a whirl.

[KobraKarl]

thanks Brent!, i was trying to figure out a way to do that yesterday without any luck,obviously doing it wrong.

does any one know how many contemporary's were actually made? guesses?

[KobraKarl]

hey Tom, what did C.W.I. irs cost you ? if you dont mind me asking? i think i would like to do the same thing . did you have them do a watts setup?

[Rolling Thunder]

I am the third owner of 3042. 351C, 700 Holley DP, Edelbrock Performer, Open chamber 4bbl heads, Top Loader 4 speed, and of course the Jag torsion bar front suspension and XKE IRS, 3.54 diff.

History as I understand it: Originally built in 1983. 1st owner took his time building car. He and car were transfered around the country several times with the military. Was told he even took it with him overseas. Put about 5K miles on it before rebuilding the engine, then put on another 20K before having a small fender bender (so to speak). Insurance ponied up for a new body, but he never redid the car.

Sold it cheap in early 2000 to a body shop owner in Raleigh. He reassembled the car and sprayed it Viper GTS Blue with Pearl Stripes. Added all new stainless everything and even redid the interior. Also added Watts link rear uprights. Left the engine alone.

I bought the car in May 2001, brought it to Cincinnati OH, and have been thoroughly enjoying it since.

Great thread,

Keith Hummel

[wtcobra]

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[wtcobra]

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[KobraKarl]

hey WT , nice! tell me about those rear brakes!!

[wtcobra]

Kobra Karl- I put light weight Wilwoods on the rear and flipped them over to the other side of rear end, so I could change pads more easily. CWI sells the bracket to relocate the caliphers.

If you go to the gasholes.com site, there are more pics that will enlarge, and give a better view, and I also have some in the gallery here. I also have the Accurate Machine lower control arms and all of the CWI pieces to beef up the rear end.

The car also has block#98 from Shelby American. I don't know why they didn't put it in his personal continuation car. I would sell it back to them though at a modest price.

wt

[Dominik]

from the specs doc

"Body:

The Contemporary Cobra Replica is not a 2nd,3rd,Or 4th generation Copy of a body that was incorrect to start with. Ours is patterned Directly from our founder fs original SC,CSX |3045,and comes complete With correctly shaped and flared rear fenDers,and provisions for a 3 1/2" Lemans fuel filler cap. Inner Panels including front fender we wells, floor Pan/foot box assembly,and trunk liner are Double bonded(bonded from both sides of panel) to the body shell In a close tolerance assembly Fixture which assures proper alignment of all inner panels within the one Piece body shell. As Delivered to the purchaser,the body,complete With inner panels,is in effect a monocoque unit vs.the traditional gKit Car" with its inner panels Pop Riveted, to the body shell. Pop rivets will eventually loosen or break, resulting in squeaks,rattles,etc."


dom

[Dominik]

Chassis:
The Contemporary 4" Od X 1/8" wall round tube Chassis is based on The original,but increased wall thickness removes the flex inherent in The AC built chassis;it provides rigidity superior to the gcut {Weld" Square/rectangular tube frames commonly used by replicar manufac- turers,and of course,is in keeping with the design and specifications of the original car.


there is more, but I have to format it to submit. watch this space.

dom

[Tom T.]

Kobra Karl,

Around $4,500 complete. Not cheap, but good stuff. Don't have the brains or skill to do a Watts on my own, didn't want to spend the money to have one done, so went with two long rods (also from CWI) that attach part way into the outriggers, back to the hubs. Helps locate the irs pretty well, for $150, as I recall. Ain't purty like Watts though.

TT

[RACER X #99]

The Watts Linkage looks very complicated to me and I also read on this forum that someone was having problem with binding. Like Tom I went with the 60's style radius rods from CWI and I think they work just fine. But I am not looking for pretty as anybody who has seen my car can attest. I am looking for stuff that works.

Cranky

[KobraKarl]

TT,Cranky, do these radius rods mount to the hubs at the original /stock jag, mount points?

you guys running torsion front ?

[Tom T.]

Karl,

Yes and yes. A weld-on reinforcement is used at the outrigger mounting points.

TT

[Rick 427 Cobra]

3140 purchased in early 80's as a DHB
Getting a "new" 433 FE this week with the full Edelbrock treatment.
Top loader and full Jag set-up.
Lots of changes over the years
Rick Currington
President, Bay Area Cobra Club

PS, Besides Presidents Thompson and
Douglas
Presidents
Mike Querio
Bob Accardo
Leonard Ulfelder
Also are Contemporary owners but some what computer challanged.
Rick

[Tom T.]

Hey!

I resemble that remark!

TT

[zimmy]

Contemporary owners - I have a question.

First let me fill in the missing numbers. My Contemporary is CCX-3-3647 purchased in June 1991. It currently has a 427 Center Oiler with 48 IDA Webers and a Toploader. I will hopefully be doing a new aluminum 427 very soon. 600 HP enigne with hopefully about 500 rear wheel HP.

Now my question. Can any of you send me email pictures of your below the floor pedal setup and more importantly, the slave cylinder mounting and hookup for the clutch. I am particularly interested in the slave cylinder mounting and the clutch fork. I also have a Lakewood bell housing.

On the master cylinder side I am most interested in how you made the hydraulic hookups and from the remote resevoir. I need to redo mine due to some bending and want to do it right this time.

Last area of question. Have any of you beefed up the plate that the under floor pedals/cylinders attach to? My flexes pretty badly and always has. I am thinking of welding a steel or aluminum plate behind the original. Any thoughts or photos would be appreciated.

Thanks to all of you. I look forward to your replies.