Enclosed trailer

[casaleenie]

Need some opinions

What is the smallest enclosed trailer you can get away with for transporting a Cobra... Something you can exit by standing on the seat and what brands?
What are the pros and cons of enclosed and open trailers?
Suggestions???
My wife is very supportive about the Cobra but has some reservations about sitting under a bridge for two days during a rainstorm.

casaleenie

[427Aggie]

The cobra if its a 90" wheelbase is 13' long. You should plan 2' in front and back. A 20' trailer is great for these cars. There are alot of manufacturers out there...I have a Pace...good trailers..you may also find a good price on a used one.

Open trailers are heavier...what are you planning on pulling it with? You want something that isn't going to be struggle. I have a 26' which is longer than I need but its great and I tow it with a 3/4 Ton dodge diesel.

Matt

[ERA535]

I would suggest teaching your wife how to play gin rummy or something - much cheaper plus how are you going to know where and when it is going to rain so you can have your trailer there?

The cars are 13 feet long - so I guess a 14 footer would do it but there are lots of other questions that come up - usually when people have an enclosed trailer they also like to take OTHER stuff - like lawn chairs and jacks and tool boxes and....well you get the idea. I would recommend a 20 footer - not to big and not too small. Plus easier to sell when the time comes.

As to the advantages of an open trailer vs. an enclosed trailer....well with an open trailer your car is still going to get wet so you will find yourself parked under that same bridge with your wife...see my earlier comment about gin rummy. With an enclosed trailer you can sit IN IT under the bridge and play gin rummy.

An open trailer is usually lighter so you don't need a big truck to pull it....but then again you can't easily put the lawn chairs and tool boxes and stuff on it either....

Pace makes a good trailer - had one of those. Buy it used.

Also....make sure you put some good tires on it! The Koreans seem to have the trailer tires market all sewn up - Nankings or something - they work way better than the Goodyears.

Good luck!

[DougD]

I just made the switch from an open to an enclosed trailer. I've been trailering for the last 6 years. I had an 18' MacLander tandem axle open trailer that pulled like a dream behind my 5.8L F250 4x4. Not so with the new 20' enclosed Interstate. With the open trailer, I could set the cruise at 65-70 on most any interstate short of big hills. The new enclosed trailer's aerodynamics are like pulling a billboard. I had to sell the F250, and am currently in the market for a diesel powered bad boy to yank the trailer around. Don't underestimate what it will take to pull the enclosed version. In addition to the poor aerodynamics, by the time you get the car, spares, canopy, pit bike, tools, etc., it can get pretty heavy. Plus, you may have additional weight in the truck you're pulling with, so you have to factor that in as well.

On the plus side, it's really nice to have what amounts to a garage with you at the track. We set up a 10'x20' canopy right next to the trailer, and once the car is out at the track, you can use the empty trailer for a place to relax, get out of the sun, wind and/or rain. Long cross-country hauls are much kinder to the car when it's protected in the enclosed trailer. I went to SAAC Does Vegas a couple of years ago (a 1600 mile haul through the Rockies, one way), and by the time I got home, my car was absolutely trashed by the road grime, tire spray, dust, dirt, rocks, etc., it accumulated along the way. With the enclosed trailer, and a Cobra with no roll up windows or top, I don't feel I can justify slowly killing my car on an open trailer. If it's a short 100-200 mile trip, I drive the car. Over that, and she goes into the trailer for protection. And you sleep much sounder in the motel on the way when you know it's locked up, out of sight.

[Alex Donghi]

I think you will regret getting anything under 16'. You can also get a trailer with a peak in front or a large radius nose. Trouble with the large radius the side door moves towards back. Part of the reason for the extra few feet is to get the die downs on the front of the car. Moiving the door back aggrevates that problem. By peak im talking about a verticle peak that follows the outline of the 'v' shaped frame that extends to the hitch.

[Flyin_Freddie]

I bought a Pace American 20' Shadow model from a fellow SPF owner for $4k....but, this was an EXCEPTIONAL deal...EXCEPTIONAL. I would have expected to pay much more...I just stumbled across a deal and took advantage of it. Check out my photo gallery for pictures, Casaleenie...

A 18' will work okay, but just barely. My 20' has plenty of room for a large floor mounted pick-up truck tool-n-junque box across the front of the trailer, a tire rack above it for race wheels and tires..and then there's enough room behind the car to put more junque if I've a mind to. I get lawn chairs, a 12x20 canopy w/poles, etc, my pit bike (26" pedal version), sometimes a grill for the odd snack or two..plus my SPF in it with ease. There's plenty of room to walk around the car, front and back...tight along the sides, but you can walk without getting a snake bite if you're careful - very careful. An 18' will work, but it'll be tight up front to access the tie down
D-rings....but it WILL work.

Saw someone at DVSF.2 who was staying at the Hampton with me...he had a custom made trailer than was less than 6" tall...MUCH less! A Cobra replica fit inside really nice, and the profile of the trailer was low enough to line up with their Suburban truck height to reduce the wind resistance. Looked great and I'll bet it really made a difference when towing. It was a 20' as well....can't remember the manufacturer, though. I think most of the manufacturers will make something like this for a reasonable price.

My trailer's had the floor coated in Rhino-Hide truck bed liner...floor, ramp, and flip-up. Then, the former owner installed two 2' strips of ATP down the floor and out the ramp to further distribute the weight of the car. He also installed the ATP tool box, and the 10" canopy on the side, as well. When I bought it, I installed the tire rack for my Hoosiers and wheels and put some more decals on the sides to make it look like I knew what I was doing...(har-har!) Pretty much all the inside is visible in the photo gallery.

Should you decide to buy a new trailer, remember that the entry level trailers can be spiffed up a lot over time. The Rhino liner, ATP, and all the other stuff on my trailer was done when it was purchased by the former owner. But, I have a friend locally who also has an SPF and bought a bare bones Haulmark for around $4k. He spent about another $500 on a black-n-white checked tile floor, tool box, and tire rack, and he's got a damn fine trailer now. He's just about got the same set up I have, but a new trailer...because he did much of the work himself. So, don't rule out buying new...set your spending limit and go shopping to see what's out there. $4K will buy a nice trailer if you shop wisely and are willing to go pick it up at the manufacturer.

Drop a note if you want to discuss offline.

[Murt Farcus]

I've been hauling my car and others for about 15 years on various trailers using an assortment of tow vehicles....

Conclusion....

Get something that tows easy and loads easy. The last thing you want is a bad experience with a cheap trailer and expensive car.
Case in point my first experience: 1) farm trailer weighing about 3000 lbs. 2) no trailer brakes. 3) no ramps. 4) lights went out after about 5 miles. 4) bad tires...one blew after about 20 miles. 5) Under powered tow vehicle...would only make it to 65 mph with the wind. 6) Driving rain storm at night thru 30 miles of construction zone. 7) no tiedowns...used ski rope thru the wheel openings. 8) traffic wizzing around me like I was standing still.

Next trip was with an alumnium 8.5x20...still with under powered tow vehicle. (Longer than required for Cobra....fits GT-350 nicely)

Next trip...same trailer...new tow vehicle. (3/4 ton Sheeby with 350 gas motor)

For day trips I still use the flat bed open trailer.
For long trips I have a two car aluminum enclosed...pulled with a Y2K - F350 DRW Diesel that has been aquainted with Mr Gale Banks.

Bottom line...minimize Gross weight, crossectional area (wind) and loading height, use a known manufacturer = good trailer

MF

[kountzecobra]

I ordered a 20' Haulmark and should take delivery in mid January. The trailer is coming with unfinished plywood floor and ramp. What kind of paint is everyone using? All the epoxy garage floor coatings say they are not to be used on wood. Some trailers I see have been coated with Rhino Coat or other truck bed coating. Any drawbacks? Will a hot tire lift it? I'm open for suggestions.

[Flyin_Freddie]

Rhino-Hide...gooooood....!

The original owner used latex whie primer to paint the inside of my Pace...worked great. Easy to touch up and since it's 'inside' it stays dry and looks great after three years. Just mask off your aluminum trim for a more professional looking job, and start rolling the paint on. Just treat it like you were painting a wall in your house and it'll come out great.

I had to paint the interior side of the side door on mine as the former owner just forgot to paint it when he painted the interior walls. Hell, I guess he left the door open for ventilation, and since it was open he couldn't see it! He had already cleaned up the roller and brushes when he saw it... Anyway, I used latex primer...two coats to seal the plywood. Looks great...works well.

[ROSS WEAVER]

Kountzecobra,

Use an enamel paint for the floor. Something durable enough to withstand the drips that could come from your vehicle. Mix metal shavings with it for traction. If you use sand, it will eventually break down and not give you the traction you need.

Ross

[cobrajeff]

I have hauled my cars around on a 16" open trailer, and moved up to an 18' enclosed. You can get away with 16' in an open trailer, because you can get access to tie the car down. I think that although a Cobra would fit inside a 16' enclosed, it would be difficult to tie down.

I am very pleased with my 18' enclosed for hauling my cars. I can haul any one of the cars in it (ERA Cobra, '65 Mustang, '57 T'Bird) with easy access to tie down (front is through a trap door). I do not have room for a bunch of spare parts or a tool bench, though.

I'd say 18' is the minimum, but you would probably find better resale with a 20' model. My trailer is a Wells Cargo with an "aero bubble" on the front of it, and tows like a dream. My truck is marginal, being a 5.0 Litre Mountaineer, but I don't do that many long distance hauls. The Mounty does a fine job as a compromise between fuel economy for everyday driving, and having enough "oomph" for towing a half-dozen times during the year.

The open trailer is light and easy to use, but offers no protection for the car. With my enclosed trailer, I can spend a week detailing my car before a show, and know that it will get there in that condition. Or I can sign up to enter Autorama in February, and not worry about whether it will be snowing when I'm finished up after tear-down. The snow and salt get on the trailer, not the car.

I bought my traliers used, and prefer to buy a better brand used than a cheaper brand new. Wells Cargo, Haulmark, Pace, and Featherlite all make nice equipment. Good luck in your search.

regards,

Jeff Burgy

[ls1ac]

Mine is the short trailer, 20 long but one foot less tall.
Trails very well. Look in the gallery.
Got it from the factory through a dealer in northern WI.
Never been up there but they take your money and you drive to the plant and get the trailer.

[Great Asp]

Hey Ross, Freddie, and Scott!

My 24 foot Pace is in my gallery.

If you see something you like, e-mail me.

Great Asp

[TurboVenom]

Here is an alternative to a trailer:

http://www.casperselectronics.com/im...g%20Yellow.jpg

It's a standard 20 ft. Ryder moving van, converted to a trailer with a pair of 14 ft. fiberglass ramps. They sell these trucks after five years of service and you can pretty much do whatever you want with them. When not moving the Cobra, it doubles as a wonderful furniture mover :-)
-John Spina
http://www.casperselectronics.com/cobra.htm

[coosawjack]

Hey Guys...

I have a 16 foot with a 2 foot "Vee" in front. It effectively gives me 18 feet at the center and I have a foot or so at the rear and about 4 feet in the center at the front. This area allows for additional stuff to be carried along.

I ordered it with 5 foot 6 inch head room which takes some gettin' used to (I'm 6'2"...OUCH!) but helps a lot with wind load at 70 MPH!!

I tow it with a stock 2000 Crown Vic and it does pretty well on our flat roads here in SC.

If anyone is interested in having one custom made, contact me. Apple Valley Trailers in GA does a great job and price is reasonable....I got mine for under $4000 (tandem axles, elec. brakes and wooden floor...weighs 2900#)!!!

Jack

[Clois Harlan]

I have a friend in Kansas City that bought a 16 footer from Hallmark for about $5800.00. He chose the 16' because he was pulling it with a Blazer and didn't want to replace that vehicle.

My friend now wishes he had a bigger trailer because of all the incedentals we all tend to carry with us to the races or shows. I would think twice before I bought anything smaller than 20'. Re-sale is not as good on a trailer smaller than 20'. Good luck with your decision. I have a black 20' enclosed for what it is worth.

[Widowmaker]

I have a 24' Featherlight enclosed trailer which weighs approximately the same as my earlier 18' Timberwolf trailer. The Featherlight tows better and of course affords more interior room for tools, lawnchairs, etc. The extra room allows for more options as to placement of the car and associated equipment. My tow vehicle is a 1997 Chevrolet crew cab dually with a 454 inch gas engine. While mileage is terrible when towing, I find it to be just fine on the open road. In a trip to Colorado several years ago, it felt like it had asthma when crossing some of the higher mountain passes. A friend has a new Ford 3/4 ton diesel engine with Gale Banks improvements and it tows the trailer beautifully, but you have to put up with the diesel when you are not towing, which is about 95 percent of the time.

[mrmustang]

You really want a slick trailer...Check out the enclosed trailers from Trailex.....A bit on the pricey side, but I've seen them up close.....Slick to say the least.........


http://www.trailex.com/buycat.cfm?cat_id=93


Bill S.

[RPRICE]

I have a 20 ft v nose featherlite. The 20 dimension is for the square portion of the trailer. The 2 ft nose is extra. Pulls like a dream with a 1/2 ton Suburban. Pull as fast a you want, 60-80 mph. Does not strain the truck. I did not want to move up to a 3/4 ton, so spent more on the trailer rather than the tow vehicle. Pull the trailer about 8-10k miles a year. Had a 96 Suburban with 70k miles when I added the trailer. Kept it another 30k with no engine or trans trouble. Bought a 2000, it now has 78k on it. Still delighted with the truck trailer combo.
RPRICE

[casaleenie]

RPrice,
I'm using a F150 4.6 auto. When you say you went a little more on the trailer what kind of money were you talking? Trailer storage is a problem and is the 20 footer more than you actually need for the car? Was going to try to make it as short as possible without getting ridiculous and too cramped.