Reversing inlet on puke tank ?

FUNFER2 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-14-2003, 02:05 PM

Hello, I'm wanting to buy a expansion tank but, most are passenger side inlet, I'm wanting a drivers side. I know we can buy new ones for $200 & up. I may have it chrome platted. Going that route is EXPENSIVE ! So, I'm looking for a good condition one on ebay or other means. I may also have to lower the tank an inch or so for clearence. Is my thinking correct that if I buy a right side inlet tank, can I just heat up the bottom U-tube & rotate it to the left or (drivers side) ? If I have to lower the tank, will I have to fab up a different mounting bracket & the U-tube also ? Will chrome platting not, adhear to the solder joints ? If dented, what fill compound will platting stick too ? ect... ect....
Any opinions & advise would be great !!!!
Thanks,
(trying to be CHEAP..... Kevin)

wicked fast · #2 (**permalink**) 02-14-2003, 02:36 PM

It's real easy.
De-solder your tank with a propane torch that
use use to solder copper tubing with.
Cut down the neck as needed,
cut the rivets that hold the brackets together.
Cut the brackets to our desired height.
Turn the tank and reassemble.
I had a radiator shop resolder the tank and
pressure check it.

Check out the picture in my gallery.

Cheers,
Bill Cook

Bud Man · #3 (**permalink**) 02-14-2003, 02:48 PM

Kevin:

Calling the expansion tank a "puke tank" is a misnomer, as the puke tank is a tank that was used to recover engine oil/condensation and is traditionally mounted on the firewall.

The expansion tanks are fairly easily modified. First, try to start out with a clean example that is relatively free from dents and distortion. Their are several used examples available, and ebay is an excellent source. Don't compromise on quality and condition here. Get a GOOD one. Try for a '61 to 63 T-Bird if you can find one.

First, have the tank thoroughly boiled out by a radiator shop. After this is done, you will have to use a propane torch to heat the front and rear brackets that are soldered to the sides of the tank and the joint on the bottom where the tube fits into the tank itself. Done correctly, you should be able to separate the two assemblies. Often, years of use have already caused the brackets to part from the tank, so you may be able to do skip that particular step.

Clean as much of the old solder as you can from the tank, front/rear brackets, and tube and orifice. Flip the bracket 180 degrees and check for proper fit. Resolder using a good quality solder and flux. Take your time, and take care to heat the joints adequately to get proper flow, but take care not to disturb the tank's soldered seam around it's circumference. Take the tank back to the rad shop and have it pressure tested for leaks. If all is good, paint it with a high quality paint and you are done.

I don't like chrome because it is not original, but I can tell you that filler will not stand up to the process.

Bud

STEVE POTTS · #4 (**permalink**) 02-14-2003, 05:03 PM

You can buy a modified expansion tank from george gessford...anyway you like it. www.gessford.com

FUNFER2 · #5 (**permalink**) 02-14-2003, 08:46 PM

Yes, I live in Nebraska & have met George, he gave me a tour of his shop & talked for a couple of hours. Great guy & engine builder. He has many great parts for us Cobra/FE gear heads. His tanks are very nice & will probably end up buying it from him but, I am just trying to do it cheaper.....if I can ?
Thanks,
Kev