Your 5 quick ways to tell a replica from an original ??

[Jim Maxwell]

That small gas cap was used on the 289 street cars as well, and are no longer available, atleast as best as I can tell, except with a key lock in the center, which doesn't match the originals. Supposedly, Morgans may have used the same cap, but I haven't found one with it yet.
Anyone out there know what else used that cap? I'm looking for one for CSX 2149, since the little lever part is bent on ours.

[Specialk]

Jim, look at this one:



I believe this cap comes from Moss Motorsports and it did not have a key. I am not sure what car it is supposed to go to.

[Jim Maxwell]

Kris, Thanks for the picture. That cap isn't the one I'm seeking. I'll try to shoot a picture and post it later today. It's hard to make out the cap on the photos of 3287, but that's the one I need.

[Aussie Mike]

That fuel filler cap on the black Cobra looks very similar to the cap on an old Rickman Triumph Motorcycle Tank I have. The tank is from the late 60s by my guess. Would they have been a universal style of filler cap that got used on a few different vehicles? It seems to me that many of the other parts on the Cobra were shared with other cars i.e. tail lights door locks etc.

It's also very similar in shape to the caps on a Series 1 XJ6 Jag.

Cheers

[DAVID GAGNARD]

How can you tell it's real????When you see a real one that is original & unrestored,you can tell.....Saturday,3-22-03, I saw CSX 2397 (99% sure of the #) at the regonal Mustang Car Show in Pensacola,Fl., It's the little blue slab side,looks to me totally unrestored and used... Saw it drive-up to register and I was at least a hundred yards away,opposite end of the lot,then he disappeared,I found it about an hour later,but no one around,hung around a while and came back a few times,but never found the owner....This little car shows dings,dents in the front and rear hoops and the AC on the clutch pedal is about 85% wore off...still looks good to me,to others,it looks pretty rough,but to me it looks it's age and shows it's use,that's the way I like em....

Wish I coulda found the owner and spoke to him,he was only there saturday and we left Sunday morning about 9:30 am....BTW,I won third place in my division with my 65 GT-350 look-a-like..... Two original GT-350s there,one a 65 and the other a 66,both white with blue stripes,one a supercharged Hurst for sale (45k) and the other there for the show,was driven in I believe,do not know from where though....Both looked to be unrestored or at least an older restoration and they did have some bumps and bruises,but again,that;s the way I like em.....

David

[Bill E]

You can get the cap from Moon it is made by a hydraulic controls CO in England all you can get is the cap, the receiver that it attaches to is not available and you will have to have it made or call us and I can get you one. Bill E EMS

[Russ Dickey]

Wicked Fast:
Your list of the Top 5 Replica giveaways are good. I use those as well, but I usually substitute the rake of the windshield for the steering column (because you can see an improper windshield from 50 feet away). I've seen a lot of replicas where the windshield sits up too straight.

I was saddened to hear of Nick Nero's passing. He was friend's with one of my uncles. I remember seeing his car at various events around the KC area since I was a teenager, and I always thought it was very cool that somebody with an original would drive it as much as he did. After all, that's what Carroll built them for.

Russ

[dkjos]

Bill E, I need to talk to you about that receiver. I bought a street style cap from Cobra Restorers, but they aren't much help when it comes to installation. If I can find your number I'll call on Monday.

[Bud Man]

The caps usd on the street cars were made by "Ceandess" in the UK.

Similar units were used on a variety of English cars and motorcycles of the 60's and 70's. My 1971 Norton Commando has one.

Bud

[Jim Maxwell]

Thanks for the tips on the fuel cap. Bill Emerson, Who or what company is "Moon"?

[Tom Kirkham]

Ron not all.

Another glaring give away (once it is pointed out) are the escutions on the hood handles. Most replicas use the same escution that is used on the trunk handle. The original hood escution is basically just a chromed washer. It also has the advantage of looking much better IMHO.

[Bill E]

I could be wrong but I don't think so. But the first cobra was assembled in Moons shop soon as you see there Moon eyes logo you will know who they are. You can contact them at 1 800 547-5422 or 1562-944-6311

[Ron61]

Jim,

I have an older MOON catalog but you might try calling them at 800-547-5422. MOON is a company in Santa Fe Springs, calif. that builds a lot of street rod and car parts. And as I said my catalog is a year or so old and Bill has current ones so he would most likely know. I have bought a few things from them and all were good.

Ron

[Jeff Frigo]

Is this it:

Moon

[SFfiredog]

My foolproof method of checking for originality involves hitting the fender with a ball peen hammer. If it dents instead of cracking, I can tell at least that it is aluminum. Next I take a hacksaw and cut a pie shaped wedge out of the fender area. I then measure the thickness of the aluminum. If it is at or under .025" then I know its orginal. If over .025" it has to be a Kirkham, Shelby, or Kimmon. The last time I tried this test, I was shot and killed by a slightly aggitated Cobra owner

[Randy Resetar]

Let's see...
1) Wood dash
2) 351W under the hood
3) Radio
4) Trunk hinges
5) Gauges
6) 2 roll bars
7) Chevy motor under the hood ....EEWWW.
8) Door handles on the outside

[pk]

DVD player in the exotic wood dash....Bigot behind the wheel
pk

[snakeeyes]

The dash is always a good starting point. Oftentimes the shape and/or gauge location is a dead giveaway. The presence of a/c controls or the aforementioned CD player are pretty good clues, as well (although I've seen pictures of originals with stereos, they are typically mounted under the dash rather than in it).

The color of the interior (anything besides black) is a clue, too, especially if it's trimmed out like a "new" car (edging on the carpets, etc.). Although I've seen originals with red, blue, etc. interiors, they always look like they were done in somewhat of a hurry as opposed to being painstakingly hand-trimmed by Skippy the Jaguar Restorer over the course of a long winter and several cases of Guiness.

The radiator area can be telling. Some replicas have a very "upright" rad which is a dead giveaway. Also, some have "pusher" fans that are not the same as the ones installed on S/C models. I've also seen a couple of original cars that had non-stock pushers installed, but that was 15 or more years ago and I'm pretty sure most of those have been returned to "correct" form.

Some replicas with round taillights use a brand that appears smaller in diameter, in terms of lens area, than original cars.

Cars with bare aluminum fender vents are typically replicas.

Lastly, the overall shape of the body is oftentimes a giveaway, although some original cars look more like replicas in that department than a lot of replicas! A glimpse at the VIN plate or speaking with the owner is the best method, although such inquiries should be tactfully worded to avoid the previously mentioned gunfire--

[REAL 1]

You can or at least I can tell just from the stance and body shape. Many replicas are "off" in one way or another.

The tricky part is telling Kirkhams and the new CSX's from the originals. Thats imposible since they are identical.

[aumoore]

This car is an original unrestored slabside that was at the mustang car show. I was a little dissapointed with the turn out this year. There is ususlly more cars at this show and no big manufacturers showed up this year. The weather was great.


David
I looked for you but every mustang with Lousiania plates said they did not know who you were. Did you see me drive in in my red Hunter Cobra? I did not put it into the show but I did enjoy driving down there in it as the weather was perfect.

Ruble