Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
31 |
|
|
CC Advertisers
|
|
04-09-2003, 07:37 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: SHREVEPORT,LOUISIANA,
Posts: 41
|
|
Not Ranked
Trim Ring For Headers
I AM SURE I AM NOT THE ONLY PERSON THAT HAS THOUGHT OF A KOOL LIL' CHROME OR POLISHED STAINLESS TRIM RING OR BEZEL TO GO AROUND THE SIDEPIPES WHERE THEY GO THRU THE FENDER. I THINK IT WOULD ADD SOME LOOKS AS WELL AS COVER UP THE CUT EDGE OF THE FENDER WHERE THE PIPES EXIT.. HAS ANONE HAD THESE OR MADE THESE.. IS THERE A COMPANY THAT ALREADY MANUF.'S???? THANKS , HAVE A GOOD EVENING
|
04-09-2003, 07:40 PM
|
|
Renegade Nuns on Wheels
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: columbus,
Oh
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 roadster with 351C-4B
Posts: 5,129
|
|
Not Ranked
Never thought of it.
Rick
|
04-09-2003, 07:56 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Flanders,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters 351 Windsor 405 HP
Posts: 1,043
|
|
Not Ranked
I thought of that. I plan to make them myself out of 1/8 inch stainless and screw them on with stainless screws. I wonder if anyone makes a material that could fold out of door sill to cover pipes to prevent leg burns? Or maybe have Velco on them that would grab onto the carpet and hang down to cover pipe. Once you get in car, roll them up and stow them on the shelf behind the seat. Any inventers out there?
|
04-09-2003, 07:57 PM
|
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Seattle, WA,
Posts: 1,389
|
|
Not Ranked
I also have considered that idea, as the cut out in my fenders was rendered a little less than perfect.
Havent experimented yet because I think the effect could be a little "cheesy". I was thinking something like an aluminum heat sheild maybe 3/4 of an inch.
you do it so i can see how it looks.
__________________
Foolish consistancy is the hobgoblin of tiny minds
|
04-09-2003, 08:06 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: SHREVEPORT,LOUISIANA,
Posts: 41
|
|
Not Ranked
SOUNDS LIKE WE ALL HAVE THESAME IDEA, BUT HAVE NOT PUT IT TO FORM. I WAS THINKING SOMETHING THAT COULD BE STAMPED OR PUNCHED ONE PIECE "SQUARE" JUST SLIP IT OVER THE SIDEPIPE AS YOU PUTTING TOGATHER AND THEN SCREW IT TO THE FENDER. IT WOULD MOLD THE FIRST TIME YOU INSTALLED. HUH! YUH! UMM! AT LEAST I THINK THATS HOW IT WOULD WORK!!!! HA HA HA
|
04-09-2003, 08:17 PM
|
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Las Vegas,
NV
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427 SO
Posts: 1,126
|
|
Not Ranked
Guys, that's a good idea! You could make 'em for under $20 and some effort, and you could sell 'em for $50 or so...unless every kit has a slightly different opening and/or fender curve.
Make 'em out of 1/8" aluminum: two u-shaped pieces 1/4" wide, one for the top and one for the bottom. Custom fit (bend) to match the side of the fender, polish them, line them up and mount on the car.
__________________
Ken
|
04-10-2003, 08:54 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
|
|
Not Ranked
If you dont want screw or pop rivet heads exposed here is a nifty idea. Suggest items be made out of 22 gauge stainless, have it lazer cut if you can, very neat and clean. They can also put the correct size holes in it too. Then bend to fit your particular car. Mark & drill the car body using perhaps 4 or 5 8-32 stainless machine screws keeping the holes up on the "flatter" part of the body. So the screws go straight into the side of the body keeping the screws as parallel as possible. Then (here's the trick and one of the reasons for using stainless in lieu of aluminum) thread the holes to accept the machine screws and run the heads down flush. Flip them over and carefully "silver solder" the screws into the metal use very little solder and allow it to wick into the screw threads in the metal "horseshoe". Then carefully grind off the heads leaving studs on the back of the "horseshoe". Metal finish the "horseshoe" and you will not be able to see how it is attached when installed because the studs will not be visable, and the stainless will not discolor with age as aluminum will.
Details........
Rick
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
Last edited by Rick Parker; 04-10-2003 at 09:01 PM..
|
04-10-2003, 11:42 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Uranus,
cal
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF replica, 351W, about 420 HP
Posts: 3,046
|
|
Not Ranked
I dont know about these...would have to see 'em on a Cobra to be sure...Rick, you DO have a good idea about hiding the heads!
__________________
Edley, The Cobra Rogue!
"If you think that you can cut it, if you think you got the time, you'll only get just one chance, better get it right first time. 'Cause in this game you're playing, if you lose you got to pay, and if you make just one wrong move, you'll get BLOWN AWAY. Expect no mercy.
|
04-11-2003, 09:42 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: SHREVEPORT,LOUISIANA,
Posts: 41
|
|
Not Ranked
i am glad that i was able to open up everyones minds and get you lazy !@%$*&*&^%$ from in front of the tv watching magnum p.i reruns. ha! ha! ha! just kidding!!!! i almost positive i am gonna try some way. Rick, i like your idea about the studs. onc e i have a finished product i'll take a shot and post for all to grade and pick-on...... also i took everybodys slam dunks on the caps'' i never knew it made such a big difference. i'll keep on writing or i guess that it would be typing in small font.. have a great evening guys...
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:49 AM.
Links monetized by VigLink
|