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05-27-2003, 07:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA,
Posts: 9
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Not Ranked
Wire Looms for Cobra Valve Covers
I've got cobra valve covers that have the wire loom support riveted on the top. My problem is that I can't find the wire looms to fit them. Does anyone have an idea where I can find some?
Thanks for your help.
Ken Wilson
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05-27-2003, 07:53 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
Check with the Mustang restoration shops or Cobra Restorers in Ga. These were used on all the 289 engines too. Maybe Finishline has them too. About $3.00 -$4.00 each.
Rick
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Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way 
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05-27-2003, 08:10 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA,
Posts: 9
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Thanks Rick for the quick reply.
Ken
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05-27-2003, 08:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Pentwater,
Mi
Cobra Make, Engine: Professional Cobra & Streetrod Builder
Posts: 5,352
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Not Ranked
Tony Branden has them. We just ordered a set for "Jenny's FIA car! Problem is, they only fit the OEM skinny plug wires!
DV.. It IS cookie time! |
05-27-2003, 08:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Carmel, NY, USA,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR - 460 Crate
Posts: 56
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally posted by Double Venom
Tony Branden has them. We just ordered a set for "Jenny's FIA car! Problem is, they only fit the OEM skinny plug wires!
DV.. It IS cookie time!
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I bought these from Branda as well, and I had the MSG 9.5 mm wires! No problem though. These looms are soft plastic, so I just put an appropriate sized drill bit in my drill press and carefully "hogged" out the openings so they will accomodate larger ignition wires. Put the loom on a block of wood to make the drilling easier and more accurate. It's a PITA, but if you go slow, no one will know you did it and they work beautifully. |
05-27-2003, 09:57 PM
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CC Member / Sponsor
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Provo,
UT
Cobra Make, Engine: Daytona Coupe
Posts: 1,359
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One of the late model mustangs I think around 1987 used 8 mm wires and the SAME style hold down on the valve cover. If you find the right one they are perfect for 8 mm wire. Oh you get them at the Ford dealer
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05-28-2003, 10:44 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Fresno,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP 184/482ci Shelby
Posts: 14,445
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Ken
Here's a different idea by my engine builder, Joe Boghosian, likes to use.
He takes a clear plastic block and drills out channels for the wires that are bigger than they need to be, so that the wires rest in them rather than being pinched. He then drills out a groove around the entire outside edge to hold a zip tie to hold the wires in. That way, the wires are never pinched, but are held securely by the zip tie--which are easily replaceable.
Obviously, you can use any color plastic/zip tie. The benefit is not pinching the wires.
__________________
Jamo
Last edited by Jamo; 05-28-2003 at 10:48 AM..
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05-28-2003, 10:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fairfield, NJ, USA,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: A & C, 351W, Tremec 3550. Exiled Member: Club Cranky
Posts: 5,897
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I was thinking of grinding off the heads on the rivets and taking the bracket off completely.
Roscoe
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Roscoe
"Crisis occurs when women and cattle get excited!"....James Thurber
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05-28-2003, 11:46 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
Jamo:
How are the blocks then attached to the valve cover, is there a slot machined in the block for the tab to fit into?
Rick
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
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05-28-2003, 11:49 AM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Fresno,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP 184/482ci Shelby
Posts: 14,445
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Rick
Riveted right onto the stand that's on the cover.
__________________
Jamo
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05-28-2003, 12:04 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Fresno,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: KMP 184/482ci Shelby
Posts: 14,445
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Here's a quick closeup... The upright on the stand is simply laying against the rear of the block, with the rivets going thru.
__________________
Jamo
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05-28-2003, 07:34 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
Thanks for the picture
Rick
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
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05-29-2003, 02:11 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: St. Petersburg, Florida, USA,
Posts: 9
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Thanks for the great information guys.
Ken
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06-15-2003, 09:21 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Dresden, NY,
Posts: 11
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You can remove the valve cover tab by taking a die grinder and grinding a slot in the rivet. Taking a screw driver with a good bit you can back the rivets out. I tapped the holes and installed stainless allen head screws. They look good. I ran the wires down the front and along the bottom of the valve cover. The choice is yours.
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