Oil Coolers, Remote Filters, Changing oil?

[Snakebit]

You have an oil cooler and a remote filter with all the hoses.

1. How do you drain out all the oil?

2. How do you refill everything with new oil, so when you restart the engine, there isn't a chance the bearings are not receiving any oil while the hoses and oil cooler are filling back up with new oil?

Has anyone install a pre-oiler? Mallory has a pre-oiler pump that looks like an electric fuel pump. You switch it on before you start the engine, switch it off, so when the engine starts everything is lubricated.

Any other pre-oilers available or other solutions?

[Satanpez]

I think there was a consensus earlier on when this was asked. It was basically "don't worry about it."

It's not that much that's in the cooler and lines, and it's a huge ***** to get it out.

When you'll most likely not go without an oil change for more than 2500 miles, it's not a big deal.

-steve in nj-

[mrmustang]

Two ways to do it, one is messy, the other is well, messy.

First method:

Remove filter, drain as much from system as you can. next, disconnect lines from remote filter canister (remember which lines goes to which side of remote canister). Set your adjustable air compressor output to 15-20lbs and insert air hose in to line, insert other line in to bucket, turn on airhose and allow oil to be pushed out by air pressure. Clean up mess, reattach lines lower lines and fill oil cooler with fresh oil until upper line is full, reattach line, fill oil filter, add oil to pan, prime and fire it up.

Second method:

Remove oil cooler from front of car and throw away, replace with new one....


Bill S.

[Mr.Fixit]

Don't worry about the last quart you can't get out of the cooler / lines. Change oil before it gets black and you have nothing to worry about.

[Lynn Johnson]

Snakebit - it's not absolutely necessary to remove every last drop of the old oil. Assuming you are changing oil frequently anyway, so you are not exactly leaving sludge in the oil lines. There is life left in the old oil.

On the pressure question, you can pour some of your new oil into the new filter, so basically all that needs to fill up will be the lines when you first crank the engine. This will help the pressure come up quicker.

My car has an Accusump, and I switch it on before every cold cranking to pre-prime the oil system. It will take the pressure up to about 35 lbs before starting.

Lynn

[Alex Donghi]

Ya fill up the lines with air that should help... Actually should be ok but change the oil early and often kind of like a democrate voting

[Hal Copple]

when i was changing my SPF over to an all AN 12 (from AN 10) system, i had to cut and make lots of hoses, some several times. Used several different oil filter mounts, so over several months, i drained a lot of oil lines.

i was amazed at how little oil is actually in the lines and oil cooler!

My guess is that an extensive AN hose/cooler system holds less than 3/4 quart in the whole thing. Trying to blow it out with air, then starting an engine with dry lines is more risky than i would want to take, to get out about 8% of my old oil.

By the way, i use a Griot's sucker system, just stick the plastic hard tube down into the dipstick hole, pump it about 10 times, go get a beer, and come back in a few minutes, (i slightly jack up the rear of the car to put the front of the sump down just a bit), and voila, in about 10 minutes, my engine is sucked dry. Never have to crawl underneath, and risk some misthreading or leakage at the drain plug.

[shaps]

Hal,
do you find you get out ALL the oil out of the pan?
Also, i thought that part of the reason for emptying through the drain plug would be that the "heavier" contaminants would wash out with the draining oil. Would that work with your system?

Like the idea of not climbing under the car or risking stripped threads.

Thanks,
Shaps

[Hal Copple]

i think i get more out with the Sucker than by draining it at the plug. On some cars, the drain plug is actually at the lowest part of the pan (assuming you jack the car a little this way or that), but on my Aviad pan, the drain hole is a little up on the front of the pan, so even with a little jacking of the car's rear, it still isn't at the lowest part of the sump, leaving some oil in the pan. But my hard plastic tube, that i stick down the oil dipstick hole really does go right down and sits on the bottom of the sump, and sucks more out of my pan than by the usual way. Plus, i always drain my oil when it is warm after a run, so that any microscopic debris is still in suspension, and gets sucked out too. I use the sucker on all my cars, except the Liberty, as it has a dipstick about 7 feet long.

When i try to carefully drain oil from below into a nice big pan, i always burn my hands, drop the plug into the oil, then splash it all over when i pull the drain pan out, then manage to step into it a few minutes later when i am adding oil from above. Then, trying to pour the used oil into some milk jug, i would overfill the slow funnel, and it would all run down and on the floor and make a mess. The sucker has a pour spout. Once, many years ago, i forgot to put the drain plug back in, noted about when the fourth or fifth quart of synthetic oil made me slip and fall. Plus now i just put the drain plug in right one time, and never have to scrounge up some specific gasket or washer to put in every time.

Besides, several times i have overfilled a car, and have sucked out the overage. Plus, when i was dinking around with oil pumps, and taking my sump off and on, i could suck out the oil, keep it clean, and then reuse it!!

When i used to drain from below, Abby, my faithful Weimerainer, just used to roll around laughing her head off at the mess i made. Now she just yawns and acts all bored.

I am a High-Tech guy now!!

[427sharpe]

Don't worry about it...I have never drained my oil cooler in all the years I have owned my EM, and she still runs fine.

[auto10x]

Don´t worry about it.
auto10x
Bill