alignment specs??

[WBofTN]

I have been given 2 different specs for my Unique 427.
I need some expert opinions on what will work the best
see specs below: Thanks
#1
Unique factory specs:
& R FRONT CAMBER SPECIFIED RANGE:
0.3 Degrees Negative to 1.3 Degrees Positive
L & R FRONT CASTER SPECIFIED RANGE:
0.1 Degrees Positive to 1.6 Degrees Positive
L & R FRONT TOE:
1.5 mm
FRONT CROSS CASTER:
0.7 Degrees Negative to 0.7 Degrees Positive
FRONT TOTAL TOE:
3.0 mm
L & R REAR CAMBER SPECIFIED RANGE:
0.5 Degrees Negative to 0.5 Degrees Positive
L & R REAR TOE SPECIFIED RANGE:
1.0 mm Negative to 1.0mm Positive
REAR TOTAL TOE SPECIFIED RANGE:
2.0 mm Negative to 2.0 mm Positive
REAR THRUST ANGLE SPECIFIED RANGE:
15.00

#2
Butch Capps who has built 10 Unique Cars that those spec's are no good. I have the spec's. Be sure you have your ride height where you want it, tire pressure checked, and all suspension bolts good and tight before you have it alligned. Also car needs at least 250 miles on it in order to settle the suspension
Rear End:1/2 degree negative camber,
Rear Tow in 1/32" on both wheels.
Total Tow in 1/16"
Caster, no change (because of what has to be done to change rear end caster)
Front End: 1/2 degree negative camber,
Camber left side, 2 1/4 degree positive camber
right side, 2 1/2 degree positive camber
Tow in 1/16" for each wheel, 1/8" total
Make sure you have at least a 3/4 tank of fuel.
Rear Camber can be changed the hard way and or the easier way. Jag. made .020 shims that go between the axle and brake rotors, 4 bolts. This is the hard way, nearly impossible at the time of alignment. You can loosen the 4 bolts and use the alignment shims, normally 1/32" to 1/16" will do it, then tighten the bolts back. I have done both since I had a stub axle seal leaking and had to take the axle loose.
Then there are variatioins to this alignment based on personal preference, driving styles, ect.
All measurements can convert from degree's to inches and from inches to degree's
revised 8/28/03

[GeorgiaSnake]

I tried to follow what you listed but got tired of scrolling up and down and searching for the match. I will cut and paste it to get them in the same order so I can compare them. I used the Unique factory specs and my car tracks straight and turns in fine. Some of the "experts" I talked to said bias ply tires and radials should be set up differently.

Randy

[niles]

Those quoted specs are useless. Frnt camber -.3 to +1.3?? Give me a break.

Nominal specs: front camber .75.
rear camber - IRS: .5
toe" 1/16 TI; both frnt and rear.
caster; somewhat dependent on type; but typically around 5 deg.

This would be for a typical performance/street set up. Track would be considerable different

gn

[Rick Bagley]

One thing is for sure, not just anyone wants to jump on this post.
With all the professionals out there I thought there would be more input. Guess most are like me and really dont know what alignment specs are needed, or is this like cam talk and everyone has their own opinion.

[WBofTN]

I got these specs on the Unique forum. I learn this a.m. that there
is a spec missing from the 2nd spec list (revised 8/28/03). There are some care owners out there who think the factory specs are trash. I dunno??
These numbers are hebrew to me - hopefully there is a translator out there in cyberspace.

GeorgiaSnake: Pls visit the Unique forum for the "whole story"
WB

[coyled]

Alignment specs are subjective and dependent on the use of the vehicle, spring rates etc. On a street cobra, a 1/16 in front toe in, 0 camber, and 2 degrees of castor is fine with rear 1/8 toe in. I run my on the track with some more agressive specs and its a hi-tech which might be totally different than a Unique. The specs are 1/8 out toe in front, 1 3/4 negative camber and 4.5 degrees posative castor. The rear is 7/8 negative camber and toe in of 3/16. I would be more conservative with a street cobra and would check tire temps on a track cobra to get it where you want it. Good luck, Scott.

[Dominik]

looking at coyled's specs I say it is a good start.
there are so many things that influence the behaviour of the handling.
only once a basic setup is done you can go into detail according to the behaviour of the car.

I bought a little book from mr. smith (not carrol smith, he did not write little books!) where one should adjust suspension settings according to tire temperatures (and tire wear if they are on for a while).

was it steve smith? sorry, I am not sure.

in doubt, get carroll smith's trilogy (3+1) in any case.

enjoy reading & testing,

dominik, cape town