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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2003, 08:42 PM
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Hal,
I have a 351w 4v,I run both! My eletric is a carter "vane" type,running 6.5 psi.I have it run off a oil pressure switch,straight to the battery/alternater. I have a stock mecanical pump also.I run a manual type gauge @ the fuel rail port,accuate until engine gets hot.The mechanical runs about 3.5 psi alone,with the eletric one off,(it will suck it through the non working pump).I normaly have both run @ the same time,and have 6.5 psi-pushing carb specs maximum for psi.Hope this helps.
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Old 09-21-2003, 08:45 PM
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oops,forgot to mention my eletric pump is mounted low on the frame. About even with the fuel tank bottom/outlet hole.
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Old 09-21-2003, 09:39 PM
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Old 09-21-2003, 09:49 PM
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Just to clarify why the pumps in the trunk..

(Hal..it wasn't complex...on the contrary, it was crude and primative. )

The original Comp cars were racers.. they had a 42 gallon tank with no fuel gauge. The tank had two pickups near the bottom, with one about an inch over the other.

The upper (main) pickup ran forward to the mechanical fuel pump on the engine block.

The lower (reserve) pickup ran into the trunk, thru 2 electric pumps in parallel, then forward to a t-connector at the output of the mechanical pump.

The car was run with the electrics off. Simply stated, when the car sputtered as it ran out of gas, the racer would switch on the electrics for a few more minutes of gas, to get to the pits.

Since the S/C's were converted Comp cars, the pumps remained in them as well, with no fuel gauge.
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Old 09-22-2003, 06:00 PM
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Hal - I believe you are running a carb, right? Most cases a mechanical pump will keep up with a carb unless your running quads or a dominator with fat jets or something. The differance is measured on the high end when you "rev' er up" and keep it there. The bowls in the carb may start to go down and the engine will starve. In that case you can back up your mechanical with a electric pump. Also in that case I would wire it and plumb it so you can turn it off when running around on the street. I had a Hemi car till a couple of years ago that was set up that way. It too starved out on the big end and the electric pump cured it. There are several makes that are designed to just stick in line.
It had one of those noisey, click, click, click, click cheap Carters.
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Old 09-23-2003, 02:22 PM
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Hi Ron ,

Yes , motor will be single carb 950cfm.Should i have any concern that there will to much pressure behind carbs with the electric pumps.

Sal
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Old 09-23-2003, 02:44 PM
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Default fuel pumps & fuel pressure

Hello Sal,

If you choose a Holley carb go with the blue pump makes up to 14 PSI. I believe it comes with a Holley fuel regulator and costs about $100 that you may want to mount on your firewall or somewhere in your engine compartment. If you are going to use Holley or Demon carbs they require 6 1/2 - 7 PSI. If you decide to use the Edelbrock set your regulator at no more than 5 to 5 1/2 PSI . Most of the Holley red or blue fuel pumps are best suited for street applications. If you intend to race you may want to choose a different fuel pump.

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Old 09-23-2003, 04:38 PM
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Any idea if the original look Stewart Warner 240-8-12 pumps are still available?Will my search only find me used pumps in need of rebuilds?

Thanks Sal
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Old 09-23-2003, 04:43 PM
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Long out of production...
..only useds and rebuilds out there.

Watch the Ford swap meets and eBay.
Grungy used pumps have gone off at as much as $100...
...really clean ones?... a few hundred each.
I would say $300-400 each for mint rebuilds is current market.

You can do better if the seller doesn't mention "Cobra" in the ad.

...they were used on a whole lot of other applications back then.
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Old 09-24-2003, 05:27 PM
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Try Bill or Marge at motorsport international out of San Diego. They specialize in sourcing original parts. This is where I got mine (a number of years ago though) - they were'nt cheap but look awsome.
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Old 09-24-2003, 06:06 PM
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How about a spring loaded switch with a strong magnet holding it closed? Would never pop off unless you hit something hard.
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Old 09-24-2003, 06:37 PM
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Thanks guys,
Its seems that finding these pumps will be a little challenge,makes me wonder if back in the days working at an auto parts store as a teenager if i stocked any of them bad boys and never realized i was handling gold nuggets in the rough.

Sal
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Old 09-24-2003, 10:01 PM
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WORD OF CAUTION WITH THE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP. MAKE SURE A CUT OFF SWITCH LINKED TO OIL PRESSURE LOSS IS INSTALLLED. IF YOU ARE IN A WRECK, UNABLE TO GET OUT OR WORST YET, OUT COLD, THE PUMP WILL CONTINUE TO PUMP AS THE KEY/SWITCH WILL STILL BE ON. TRUST ME ON THIS, IF A FIRE BREAKS OUT, GAS WILL CONTINUE TO PUMP ADDING MORE "FUEL TO THE FIRE". THIS CIRCUMSTANCE IS WHY ERA #328 NO LONGER EXIST, AND THE DRIVER MAY NEVER FULLY RECOVER.
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Old 09-25-2003, 12:00 AM
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Many if not most of the current production cars have an impact sensetive switch that breaks the electrical circuit to the electric fuel pump and will not allow the fuel pump to operate if the side or rear is impacted heavily enough or at a predetermined angle. It requires you to access and reset the switch inside the rear trunk area before the pump will operate again.

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