NEED Excellent Side Oiler Block!

Cracker · #1 (**permalink**) 12-10-2003, 11:05 AM

I am looking for an excellent example of a non-sleeved NO MORE
than .20 over standard side oiler bare block. I do not need anything else and am willing to pay top dollar for a clean block.
Please feel free to call me on my cell at 404-518-0412 if you have a lead or block for sale. Thank you and make it a great and blessed day!

Cracker · #2 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 08:51 AM

Back to Top! Need block!

wtcobra · #3 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 10:40 AM

Why don't you buy a Shelby aluminum block? If cost is not a factor, I have a .17 over H-M block.

wt

Woodz428 · #4 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 11:19 AM

You might try Carl's Ford Parts or DSC, they have blocks listed ( I think one or the other still has new ones).

clayfoushee · #5 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 11:32 AM

Sorry for intruding, for a moment, on your efforts to locate a side-oiler block, Cracker, but why no more than 20 over? I'm curious because I recently purchased a previously-owned Cobra with a 427, the engine told me was bored 22 over? Do I have a time-bomb?

RallySnake · #6 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 11:33 AM

Is this good enough?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2447209679

Clay, don't worry, the pistons are .020" oversize to fit the bored out cylinder. The .002" is the clearance necessary for piston expansion when hot.

Paul

Cracker · #7 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 12:14 PM

WT Cobra - you've got mail!

Regarding the over boring question: 427's had a lot of problems with thin cylinder walls even as brand new blocks - in fact some new blocks even as standard bore were no good or require sleeves due to thin walls. It is widely believed (always exceptions) that 427's are good for up to .30 overbore if everything checks out well.
My side-oiler is currently at .17 over and good to at least .35 after my most recent rebuild. At .05 over per rebuild it should last me a lifetime baring any catostrophic problems.
E-Bay block will not do - but thank you for the lead!

427 S/O · #8 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 04:16 PM

Mine is also .017 over and hope as well it last a long time, just for peace of mind I keep $$$$$ aside for the aluminum beauty.....just in case

Sizzler · #9 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Cracker

I am looking for an excellent example of a non-sleeved NO MORE
than .20 over standard side oiler bare block. I do not need anything else and am willing to pay top dollar for a clean block.
Please feel free to call me on my cell at 404-518-0412 if you have a lead or block for sale. Thank you and make it a great and blessed day!

I don't quite see why you're having such a problem here.
Hasn't Keith Craft posted numerous times that he has brand new Genesis iron blocks available (4.25" bore) for something like $3000. Just what is "top dollar" to you? And Keith Craft isn't the only vendor with these brand new blocks in stock.

Failing to see some major issue here I guess..................

Chaplin · #10 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 05:04 PM

Sizzler,
Just a guess here, but I would bet that he's looking for an original Ford iron block, not a new unit.

ERA 626 · #11 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 05:50 PM

Whats wrong with the ebay block?

Chaplin · #12 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 06:01 PM

It's not drilled as a side-oiler.

Does anyone know if you can drill it and what it would cost to do it?

Cracker · #13 (**permalink**) 12-11-2003, 06:09 PM

In talking with WTCobra tonight (quite knowledgeable about FE's I'll add) he suspects the Ebay block to be a Marine unit. He has one and pointed out some ways to tell the difference. That would not be suitable for this application. Genesis blocks are not original hence the price - and they shouldn't be priced as high as they are IMHO. Thanks for the leads and input everyone!

RallySnake · #14 (**permalink**) 12-12-2003, 10:56 AM

Chaplin,

It would cost more to rifle drill the block than the block is worth. However, these top oiler blocks are perfectly good for street use. If someone were to crawl under the car and see that the three plugs are missing above the crossbolts, they would know it's not a overpriced side oiler. I haven't found anyone, yet, who can squeeze under my car with less than 4 inches of ground clearance. So, this seems a very reasonably priced choice.

Cracker,

The ad does not say that it's a marine block. If it was closer than NJ and I were interested, I would write the seller and ask him. The good thing about a marine block is that they're rev limited to 3000 rpm. The bad thing is, it may have had salt water flow through it. The best castings were used by the racers, the second best went into street cars. The rest were sold to boat makers. There is no other difference between the blocks. The seller should answer these questions before bidding. If someone told me that it were not suitable for use in a Cobra, I would suspect that he has a bid in already! If you're building a serious race engine, you're right, this one will not do.

Paul

RLC · #15 (**permalink**) 12-14-2003, 06:38 AM

I have Vintage '66 427 s.o. un-bored, 700+HP, Original four speed Top-Loader Trans. Eng. has about 10,000 miles on it. Also comes with extra heads and guts to back it down to 500+ HP.
Eng is still in 427 SC made by N.A.F. Car was in HOT-ROD '89,
HOT-ROD callender '89, KIT CAR '87, KIT CAR ILLUSTRATED
Volume 5, Number 1 '88
Can hear run!

Call! 513-726-0149 ask for Rick

Cobranut · #16 (**permalink**) 12-14-2003, 11:32 AM

I beg to differ on the marine application being low RPM.

I've run boats for decades and it's true most stock marine inboards peak rpm is fairly low at around 5000, but cruising rpm is often 4000 or more, under heavy load for long periods of time.
I've even been known to run full throttle for extended periods. (You can't do that in a street car).

Marine engines lead a hard life and wear out rapidly.
The corrosion issue is also a big reason to stay away from them.

Later,