Electric Water Pump 351W Pro/Con

casaleenie · #1 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 01:16 PM

Need some input on pros and cons of an electric water pump install on a 351 W. I've been having some overheating while at idle and wondered if this would help correct the problem...
What other things would I have to consider with an electric pump.
Battery, Alternator, etc....

Jack21 · #2 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 02:02 PM

Casaleenie,

If the electric water pump is a "Street use" pump, then try it.

Cobras are notorious for overheating to start with, like you I hate trying to explain to people that the car is NOT powered by steam.

There are several "Hi-Flow" waterpumps out there. I used an Edelbrock. The rebuilt from the auto supply store won't cut it.

AQm using March pulleys, but the Street Rod ratio, not the performance ratio. Only the water pump pulley is smaller, turns faster at lower RP.

The aluminum radiator is custom made by Griffin for Classic Roadsters. Ask around for recommendations for your Unique.

I used a Scotts 16" electric puller which includes a partial shroud.

Used a Ron Francis Wire-Works fan thermostat kit with in-the-block sender. Drilled & pipe threaded a thermostat sender boss on driver side of intake manifold water crossover. Sender tip extends into the water outlet in head. Make sure there is enough metal to metal contact between seder and head as sender works by completing the ground. Sender turns fan on at 205, and off at 180.

I use a 180 deg thermostat year round. Over 30 MPH, temp stays at 180. In traffic, fan will cycle on at 205, and off at 180. Also installed a manual override switch on dash, which keeps fan on and temp at 180 if I get concerned.

Using a 7# Stant pressure cap with coolant recovery tank. Engine hot, tank catches about 12 oz of system overflow. Engine cold, overflow returns to system. Zero loss & zero coolant on garage floor.

The electric fan sound noisy with engine off, but barely audible with engine idling.

15k miles on this setup, around town, cruising, road trips, stalled traffic, summer, winter. "Knock on wood", no cooling system problems. The attention to detail here paid off.

Any questions e-mai me back.

REDSC400 · #3 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 03:05 PM

I read somewhere (which means I am not an expert on this by any means) that the belt turned running gear (water pump, generator and external crankshaft vibration dampener along with the flywheel are all components of external vibration dampening.

If that is true, and all these components kind of run in harmony, I wonder what would happen if you replaced the belt driven water pump with an electric one, without the belt drive? Would this change the vibration dampening characteristics of your engine?

Just wondering out loud. However, I would make sure I understood that aspect well before proceeding. Also, how much HP would you gain in theory by using an electric waterpump vs belt drive? I would be interested in knowing this myself.

Nice question.

DonC · #4 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 03:25 PM

Art:
I've seen threads on the CSI and Meziere pumps. Might be worth a search.
DonC

DonC · #5 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 03:27 PM

Sorry, the reply was meant for Al.
PS
How can you be overheating in Rocky River? It must be about 5 degrees there now.
DonC

casaleenie · #6 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 04:10 PM

Red,

The vibration dampening sounds like one of those things that shows up after an install.... Not looking for a HP increase (it would be nice) but rather to correct the cooling problem...

Don,

Usually is 5 degrees this time of year but we're experiencing a rather mild winter ... 50 degrees again today.... If it wasn't for all the salt that they dump on the roads I would have been out driving this whole month.... I'll chase down the threads on the pumps... I never remember to do that first before I ask questions... I've got an opportunity to buy the Moroso brand pump still in the box for the 351W. It's not really a big discount on the pump so I'm still open to another brand if it's better..

strictlypersonl · #7 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 04:29 PM

casaleenie,

The first thing that I'd check is ignition timing. Retarded timing will tend to generate more heat. *

*Is the engine new and tight? Another source of extra heat.

Second - what fan are you running? If your water pump is working properly (with standard pulleys), it should be pushing enough water. I recommend a small hole in the thermostat to ensure that the bulb is always bathed in fresh water. The hole, if oriented at the top, will also help bleed air out of the intake manifold.

If you have a strong window fan that can direct into the radiator opening, see whether that effects the temperature.

RPRICE · #8 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 04:44 PM

I run a Meziere high flow unit on my aluminum BB. If your car is EFI, I am not sure I would do it. An EFI car runs way hotter than a carb car. When I pulled the EFI off and went to carb, the engine won't get over 200. If you go with the electric pump, pay attention to the total amp draw. You may find that between electric fans, fuel pumps, lights, and now water pumps, that it will take a 100 plus amp alternator. I run a 120 amp unit. If I'm out at night around town at low rpms, I make sure I have cables or my battery pack with me. No problems yet, but the lights can get dim.
Richard
Memphis

casaleenie · #9 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 07:07 PM

Strictly, Price

Engine has about 6K on it. Carburetor.
Just reading these postings gives me a lot to work with...
I think the Moroso will draw 12 amps...

scottj · #10 (**permalink**) 12-31-2003, 07:32 PM

I would run a good performance pump like a Stewart or an Edelbrock Victor. Electrics can't match the coolant flow of these pumps (180 GPM vs. 35-55 GPM). Also, the parasitic loss from a Stewart or an Ebrock pump is only 2+ HP at 4000 rpm.
If you need a boost in flow at idle check into one of these: http://www.stewartcomponents.com/htm...waterpumps.asp
Scott

Okiesnake · #11 (**permalink**) 01-01-2004, 10:07 AM

A lot of performance engines don't have a vacuum advance hose installed and therefore have a tendency to run hot when idling. When stuck in traffic, have you tried revving up the rpm’s a little and see if the temp drops? If it does drop, it is probably not because the water pump is flowing more coolant, it is because of the timing issue. Also if it drops then it is not an airflow issue through the radiator.
To ensure that there is no air trapped in the engine, you can “burp” any air out when adding coolant by loosening either the temp probe or the heater inlet plug (if you don’t have a heater).