Stainless steel knock ons

[Ant]

Knock on stainless steel spinners or hub nuts, do many Cobra owners use these or just the alloy items, I have used alloy and they are very hard but mark after a while!

What I thought about doing is order a set of each, and use alloy for racing for the small unsprung weight difference?

[Edley Rondinone]

Are you using the lead hammer? I can whack my wheel with the lead hammer, and it leaves nary a mark.

[joea]

What's the deal with the lead hammer...can't you just use a rubber mallet?

[Ant]

Edley,

I have read a lead hammer does the job and a bit softer than copper, and probably the important thing lead has weight!
Stainless lug nuts are probably defeating the purpose of a race designed system in weight.

Cheers

[427 S/O]

Joea is right....use a rubber mallet, the pins take all the force........

[DonC]

AJ:
In the FWIW category when ERA builds my car I will be using SS spinners for the two following reasons:
1. Minimize the galling that happens when you have two similar metals in contact. Galling will still happen so anti-seize will still have to be used but it will be minimized.
2. Strength. There have been instances of wings of the aluminum spinners breaking and I feel that SS will reduce this possiblity.
I'm fully aware that I'm going to be increasing the unsprung weight of the car but, since it's going to be a pure street machine I'm willing to take the hit.
Estimated cost is $300 for the spinners.
There has been at least one thread that addresses the galling and broken spinner wing issue.
DonC

[Bud Man]

I agree with Edley on using alloy knockoffs. I have used Trigo units for a few years, installing and removing several times with a soft lead hammer and have inflicted zero marks or deformation on the knockoffs. I'll take the unsprung weight savings...

I always remove my wheels every few months to clean old anti seize around the mating surfaces, pins and hub threads and treat them to new compound. You haven't lived until you have had a knockoff seize into a hub.......

Would advise against using a rubber mallet. Too much danger of undertightening, IMHO. Also, its a good idea when you initially remove and then tighten your knockoffs to make sure your wheels are always stationary so that your bearings aren't absorbing the hammer blows. I have seen cars on lifts with someone smacking a knockoff and I gotta tell ya, it makes me wince.

Bud

[ToyCollector]

Originally posted by Bud Man


I Also, its a good idea when you initially remove and then tighten your knockoffs to make sure your wheels are always stationary so that your bearings aren't absorbing the hammer blows.

Interesting point. Never really thought about that one.

I have used everyting from deadblows, mallets, special sockets. Nothing beats a lead hammer IMO.

[jhein]

I am a novice but I use a lead hammer. I've had my wheels off several times with no problems. I have always been careful not to overtighten them but I would think if you could get your spinners off with a rubber mallet that they are probably not tight enough. I have heard of guys breaking the wings off their alloy spinners probably from overtightening, lack of anti-seize, banging on the same wing repeatedly (as opposed to alternating wings sequentially), or some combination of the above.

John
spf1421

[Edley Rondinone]

Joea: From what Trigo owner Lynn Park told me, rubber mallets do not have enough "weight" to properly secure a spinner.

[Chaplin]

Do NOT use a rubber mallet to secure your spinners. If you're putting on hub caps, that's one thing, but not on your spinners. Use a lead hammer or something similar. I was nervous about marring the spinner, but I've had them on and off a few times and the spinners are perfect. The lead hammer is getting a little deformed, but the spinners still look brand new

[David Brown]

I've had stainless steel knock-offs on my Hi-Tech car for nearly 10 years. They are tough and have held up to a lot of banging and hammering, especially when several galled. Subsequently I slathered all 4 with anti-seize and never had a removal problem.

A by-product of the stainless unit's hardness is the amount of grinding and buffing required to bring each knock-off to an acceptable level of lustre. I spent about 3 hours per unit.

I know several other Cobra owners with bent aluminum ears. I also know Cobra owners with aluminum knock-offs that are not bent.

David

[joea]

Why the lead hameer ...because it is heavy and won't mar the spinner? You actually have beat them on that hard?

[Edley Rondinone]

Yes, it IS heavy. Yes, because it will NOT mark the spinners. Yes, you have to beat them on hard. (Although, 'hard' in this case is relative!). And Yes, because you get a free lead hammer when you buy knock-off wheels! Also, one side goes on clockwise, and one side goes on counter-clockwise.

[427 S/O]

BS, over 10 thousand miles and a lot of hard driving, never any problems with my wheels and always used a rubber mallet.
Some of you guys are taking a simple task and turning it into rocket science,
pleeeeease.......

[Chaplin]

Originally posted by 427 S/O


BS, over 10 thousand miles and a lot of hard driving, never any problems with my wheels and always used a rubber mallet.
Some of you guys are taking a simple task and turning it into rocket science,
pleeeeease.......

BS? I'd say you've been lucky so far. There a plenty of threads where people lost spinners and wathced as their wheel rolled down the highway past them because they lost a spinner. You might be able to get it tight enough with a rubber hammer, but why risk it? The spinner is the only thing holding the wheel on and keeping you from getting into a serious accident.

There's a reason Jags, Triumphs, etc. came with brass or lead hammers from the factory. You should use them and don't be afraid to whack those spinners.

Worst case scenario, you brake one. Big deal, replace it. If you lose a wheel it, cost a lot more to fix the car and you may not be able to fix you. Seems like a no brainer . . .

[Bob In Ct]

Remember, the pins take the acceleration and braking loads. Since I've had my car I've just finished with a couple of moderate hits to secure the spinner. I've never had one move.

Always use a thick safety wire. Check it for lack of slack before every drive.

Bob

[Art Colley]

I never had knock offs on my Cobra, but did have one of the rare sets on my '63 split window Corvette (very rare wheels). They had the lead hammer.

Where I believe either kind of hammer will work, because this indeed is not rocket science, the lead hammer is best. It is for a very simple reason involving the dynamics of how the energy goes from the hammer to the spinner. The rubber deforms (as you know), but that has the effect of allowing the energy of the moving hammer to be released, and not getting to the spinner in a consistent and predictable manner.

The lead, while protecting the spinner, does not deform, and passes more predictable, consistent, and effective force to the spinner. In all fairness, even simple things sometimes have specific reasons for being the way they are.

As I said, tho, either hammer will work, so I don't mean any offense at all, but the lead (or soft metal) hammer has a reason for being.

edit: Then there's Bob's very good advice about safety wire, which can prevent an accident. But it is the hammer which will produce the desired loading.

Regards

[joea]

I was just joing to head-butt my spinners on

[Mike Bartlett]

So, where can you buy a lead hammer? A buddy of mine use to work at a wrecking yard and would gather all the lead weights from the wheels, melt them down, and make hammers. I don't think I want to go that route. Don't need to sniff any lead fumes.

Mike