spf with 514 crate

[rated x]

I am about to purchase a spf with 514 crate does any one have any experience w/this setup. Car is real nice but should I stay away from 514? please help.. I just snoozed on spf w/393..500hp and car was sold.

[millennium200]

After owning mine almost two years and almost 9000 miles I would not have anything else.

[craigayl]

Hi Rated x

I too have had my 514 for 2 years and now about 10,000 miles and would definitely do the same again.

I’ts not “right out of the box” though.

I changer the intake to a dual plane Performer RPM and use a Holley 850 DP. This helps the low end. I can cruise in 5th as low as 1200rpms with no lugging.

I wound up changing the cam after 5,000 miles because I had broken several valve springs. Turns out this is not uncommon on this engine because the cam ramp is very aggressive. It is truly a “race” cam and a bit too radical for street use. If I were to do it again, I’d change the cam, right from the start.

Hope some of this helps

Craig

[rated x]

thanks so much! about how much should changing cam,springs,lifters cost?? I would pull motor out myself but no assembly. I am about to buy cobra w/514 but need to factor that in.

[craigayl]

Hi Rated x

A lot of variables here. A new cam can cost you anywhere from about $300. – 800. depending on what you want. Flat tappet or roller, hydrolic or solid, reuse old springs or buy new, etc.. Too, the shop that that is doing the work for you may swap you even up if they have a need for your cam and if your cam is in new condition. Then there is labor to add. On the high end, you would be looking at $1000 for everything (labor plus parts). on the low end a couple of hundred.

One suggestion on cams… I put a Comp Cams 34-250-4 in my 514. This is a flat tappet hydraulic. With it, I gave up a little HP, but I got it back in Torque. I’m very satisfied. This is a bullet proof set up. I have friends with 514s in their SPF’s and no one has got around me yet. Pulled 11.98 in the quarter on street tires and granny shifting…

Good luck

Craig

[rated x]

doe"s anyone know dates or serial #'s for 514crate ?there are three versions of this motor ford put I understand the latest were bullet proof but earlier ones are or can be trouble. please help with any info

[craigayl]

C514 was an upgrade from the B514 somewhere around the 1st of 2001. This was to change to Eagle rods as the pervious rods were breaking. D514 is the current 514. This change was made to upgrade to the higher flow Super Cobra Jet Heads (added 25 HP). This change was made some time last year.

I don’t how you can identify a B from a C without pulling the pan, but the D with the new heads is obvious when you look at the ends of the heads. C = Cobra Jet (cast in) D = Super Cobra Jet (scribed in)

I am not aware of any valve train changes

Craig

[gsharapa]

I had SPF 924 with a C514 in it and the car was awesome. I ran the solid roller and dominator on the street with no problem. Just need to set the carb up to get rid of the off idle lean condition. Would still have it but someone wanted it pretty bad so I sold it. Just finished another one with a 427 small block stroker.

See my gallery of the new 427 stroker on the 514.........

[rated x]

do 514 heads have SCJ ingraved or Just the "D" thanks

[craigayl]

Spelled out

Super
Cobra
Jet

Inch tall letters. Can't miss it.

Craig

[OneFastRide]

gsharapa -
So, We gotta ask! How does the 427 small block compare to the 514?
Steve

[bibt1272]

I just purchased 514 crate 625 hp. The scj heads have different valve springs than the C version. Ford tech support say their a better spring. They suggested I change the oil pan to a 7qrt. For more oil cap. I also had to change the intake so it would fit under the hood. Will be on the road in april. Terry

[Tom Wells]

Hi Terry,
For your sake I hope Ford wasn't blowin' smoke If you do have a problem, Ford will happily let you pay for it

The problem with the prior springs was a combination of high lift (over 0.7" at the valves IIRC) and triple springs. This combo had a fairly low fatigue life. Plenty for a bunch of 1/4 mile runs, but nowhere near enough for a "daily" driver.

At around 3-5K miles users reported they started breaking. Not good.

I have one of the earlier engines that I paid Ford and others a lot of extra money to beta test - $2800 extra to be exact. Ford din't help any at all

I didn't have the valve spring problem (whew!) because I wanted a hydraulic roller setup with lower lift & higher durability and coincidentally, double springs to replace the triples. It's working fine at >8K miles!

Now if I could learn to keep it right side up...

Tom

[craigayl]

Very interesting on the spring upgrade Terry. I too hope this is going to solve the 514 valve train problems. Be anxious to hear how it’s doing after 10 or 20 thousand miles..

Not to add more mud to this picture, but a friend of mine had his solid roller tappets fail. I think his is one of the original B514’s, but again, it was suspected to be because of the very aggressive ramp on the cam. Maybe this to has been resolved?

Anyway, good luck with your new ride. Your going to love the kick of that monster motor!!!

Craig

[bibt1272]

I would like to think that ford worked out all the problems with the 514. The fact of the matter is the price. When I search for an engine built by the professional. The price was 11000 to 25000. You the look at the crate and its 7500. However Whats that old saying you get what you pay for. I d better start budgeting for a cam change, for hoping they worked out the problems may not be enough. Thanks for the input guys. Terry

[gsharapa]

OneFastRide,

I actually like the small block stroker better! It has a bit more HP at 638 HP vs the 605 HP the 514 C had but the power to weight is much better. The other thing I like is the tork is up in a higher RPM range which allows you to get more power to the ground. The 514 was fun but the tork was too low in RPM. Now I have Drag Radials on the new SPF with the Keith Craft 427 small block stroker........but only had Goodyear Eagles on the SPF with the 514. Would love to see my drag radials on the 514 car!

[bibt1272]

Good looking car Gary. How do you like the drag radials. Terry

[Rwillia4]

Has anyone had any experience with the Keith Craft crate engines.
514 competition crate engine ($11,995.)
Fully machined production block, Scat cast steel crank, Scat H beam rods, JE pistons, Plasma moly rings, Federal Mogul bearings, Comp Cams solid roller camshaft, Double roller timing set, Comp Cams roller lifters, Comp Cams Hi tech pushrods, front cover and pointer, BHJ damper, Melling oil, Canton oil pan, Blue Thunder stage 2 heads, ARP fasteners, Fel Pro gaskets, Edelbrock Victor intake, Ford Racing valve covers, Scorpion roller rockers, Rocker girdle, MSD distributor, MSD wires, MSD bronze gear, Davinci custom carb., balanced, blueprinted and assembled.

or the 514 crate engine ($8,495.00)
Fully machined production block, Scat 4.150 cast steel crank, Scat H beam rods, JE forged pistons, Federal Mogul bearings, Comp Cams hyd roller camshaft, Double roller timing set, Canton oil pan, Melling HV oil pump, BHJ damper, Crane hyd roller lifters, Comp Cams pushrods, Scorpion roller rockers, Edelbrock stage 2 heads, Edelbrock Victor intake, Edelbrock water pump, Ford Racing valve covers, balanced, blueprinted and assembled.

I'm leaning towards the comp crate because of the BT heads and MSD. I would also perfer a hyd cam over solid for durability/life reasons. I worry with competition in the title on how streetable it will be.

Any ideas? Am I thinking in the right direction?

Willi

[rated x]

I purchased a spf w/514 crate late model and last version from ford. Amazing power (635 hp) on dyno. make sure you upgrade oil pan. dollor for dollar best value out there!!!!!

[bibt1272]

would like to change the oil pan. Can you give me the heads up on what pan you purchased and oil pump changes Thanks Terry