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03-20-2004, 07:10 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Bonnet scoop
I want to mount my bonnet scoop to the bonnet, I need to know how far from the leading edge (front) of the bonnet to the front of the scoop?
Also is there any specific size and spaceing for the rivets?
I dont want to be drilling holes everywhere then find out I have it all wrong.
Thanks in advance.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-20-2004, 07:54 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Cape Coral,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: Past owner ERA 146, ERA 694 in progress, 428 CJ, toploader
Posts: 251
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Not Ranked
Hood scoop
Ah..the great rivet debate begins again..
Go here, http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/body/hood.htm
its (usually) accepted as accurate, but opinions vary.
Good luck
John
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03-20-2004, 08:47 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Am I looking at the diagram correct in that the scoop is central in the bonnet but the cut out is 1 inch offset?
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-21-2004, 02:14 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Australia,
Zzz
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby alum 468 block
Posts: 14,974
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Not Ranked
Hi Boxhead sounds like you are making good progress.
Instead of rivets I used button heads in stainless.
You may recal when you were over, I have also placed the bolts through the bonnet/hood edge. Here I started at the front of the scoop and went around to the front of the scoop.
Used the same button heads here as on the scoop.
Just don't over tighten them.
Cheers
Bernie
__________________
Bernie Knight
KMS 427 #662 Shelby 468 CSX 1026
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03-21-2004, 02:17 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Australia,
Zzz
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby alum 468 block
Posts: 14,974
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Not Ranked
Hi Boxhead sounds like you are making good progress.
Instead of rivets I used button heads in stainless.
You may recal when you were over, I have also placed the bolts through the bonnet/hood edge. Here I started at the front of the scoop and went around to the front of the scoop.
Used the same button heads here as on the scoop.
Just don't over tighten them. Email me if you need measurements after checking out the sites here.
Cheers
Bernie
__________________
Bernie Knight
KMS 427 #662 Shelby 468 CSX 1026
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03-21-2004, 03:40 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
I do remember seeing yours Bernie and have the pics, but when you say Button heads do you mean like little bolts with a round head and no screwdriver notch in it?
If so where did you get them?
The progress has been slow (in my eyes) lately.
I am half way through doing the selector mod on my T56 box, all the parts are cut but I wont get time to weld it all together till next weekend now.
I priced a set of Smiths gauges for my car, 300kph speedo, tacho, fuel level, oil pressure, water temp, oil temp, amp & clock with all senders. I nearly died, they wanted $2000.00AU black faces, white dials & chrome bezels.
Does anyone else now of another gauge set with similar features for less money?
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-21-2004, 08:21 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: West Linn,
OR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #684, 428 FE, TKO600
Posts: 1,378
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Not Ranked
Boxhead:
Have you looked at the Autometer set that Finishline has? Don't know what the cost would be given the exchange rate but it might be an improvement.
DonC
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03-22-2004, 04:59 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
I found out that where I work we are actually autometer agents so the guys in spare parts are going to get me a price.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-22-2004, 05:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Australia,
Zzz
Cobra Make, Engine: Shelby alum 468 block
Posts: 14,974
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Not Ranked
Hi Boxhead, sounds like you are really progressing if your looking to bolt/rivet scoops etc. on.
I used the VDO gauges and VDO (Roger Howard from Howard Instruments in Northern Rd, Heidelberg Victoria) have the Smiths face on them compliments of Rogers expertise.
All the nostalic/original look but totally electronic. Full set including clock was around $1200 with all sender units for temps. fuel etc.
The button heads are semi circular/dome shape with an Allen
head top insert.
Available in all bolt shops or try Portland Fasteners in Portland Victoria who supplied mine. They posted them to me ex Visa card processing.
I can soon send you a sample. Email me at;
kni-time@bigpond.com
if you want one as a sample
I used nylocks and just tightened them until they were firm. I will watch it once its all painted, with the tightening, as I have seen some real spider cracks on some cars.
Cheers
Bernie
__________________
Bernie Knight
KMS 427 #662 Shelby 468 CSX 1026
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03-22-2004, 08:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Cupertino,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Classic CCX 3970: 1965 427 Cobra S/C, Shelby aluminum 427 CSX 290 (468 cu in) engine
Posts: 789
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Not Ranked
Boxhead: I'm not sure about Down Under, but here in the states Nisonger is the place for Smiths gauges. They are remanufactured using the original Smiths tooling. Peter Bayer of Contemporary Classic fame is the man, back in New York. His email address is info@nisonger.com and his toll free (here anyway) phone number is 888-781-6968. In my opinion, there's nothing better looking (or more authentic) than a set of Smiths gauges on a 427 S/C dash. And that funny reverse speedometer even makes sense for you guys driving on the wrong side of the road! ; ) Rich
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03-22-2004, 09:03 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Down here we sit in the right(hand) side of the car, so maybe you guys have got it all wrong?
I will send an email to Peter as at this stage I am only looking around.
Thanks for the info.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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03-23-2004, 05:35 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: White Plains,,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA140, ERA 267, ERA GT2038, ERA FIA 2045, ERAGT2077 ERA2893000EXP
Posts: 1,117
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Not Ranked
In an ERA the motor is offset 1" to the right. Before cutting a hole in your hood check to see where the carb is relative to the scoop.
Jim
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03-23-2004, 05:42 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
Thanks for the report of the era engine being off centre, but I have a LS1 engine going into mine.
No carbies, but hopefully later I will get a 8tb setup
__________________
Cruising in 5th
---------------------------------------------
Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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