Thinking about buying a Cobra kit car. Need advice and help though

[Monkie]

I am thinking about building a Cobra kit car. The goal for the car is mainly for it to handle very very good. Is that possible? If so what suspension parts are out for it?

[Excaliber]

FFR, stripped down to the bare essentials, built 302 with a 5 speed. Get the IRS option. It will be a go kart on a budget.

[klayfish]

Monkie,
Ernie is right. A car that he describes would weigh in the neighborhood of 2000-2100 lbs, with 225+ horsepower. It would be a handling dream.

There are lots of Cobras out there. Sounds like you'll want to go towards light weight. There is an endless supply of go fast and handle well parts, from small suppliers, as well as large ones. That will not be an issue. Like any other type of car...how fast you want to go and how well you want to handle will depend on the size of your wallet.

The only thing to keep in mind about the Cobra is that while they can handle well, their short wheelbase makes them twitchy. When you reach that limit, there is NO turning back. They can get away from you in a hurry.

Best of luck.

Steve

[rdorman]

While in a completely different price point from FFR, don't forget to check out JBL motorsports. I begin to drool everytime I look at their chassis.
Rick

[slithering]

Monkie,

Are you wanting a race or just a well performing street car? That distinction needs to be made. You will be wise to listen to Ernie and klayfish.

Chris

[PatBuckley]

What do you mean by "handle"...do you want it to be fast on a road race track? Get a JBL.....or do youwant it to handle everyday roads smoothly?

[TampaFla]

Big variety now - recently got bigger with Kirkham's intro of a fiberglass car. You can build a track car (and win) or a show car (and win). $$$ is a bigger factor than anything else, i.e., "you can't get there from here..." Your goal may exceed your budget. Kit prices range for low $20s to over $100K, just depends on what you want rather than what a Cobra can be.

You may also want to look at resale value (saw a Shelby "continuation car" go for $35K over its normal price simply because Carroll signed the glove box).

[PONY66]

TRY HUNTER COBRA KITS CARS IN OCALA FLORIDA

[Monkie]

I would like to make it a road track car. But still have it be able to drive on the road. What IRS is used for the Cobra? I sure hope its not a 99-04 Cobra IRS.

[Monkie]

Originally posted by TampaFla


Big variety now - recently got bigger with Kirkham's intro of a fiberglass car. You can build a track car (and win) or a show car (and win). $$$ is a bigger factor than anything else, i.e., "you can't get there from here..." Your goal may exceed your budget. Kit prices range for low $20s to over $100K, just depends on what you want rather than what a Cobra can be.

You may also want to look at resale value (saw a Shelby "continuation car" go for $35K over its normal price simply because Carroll signed the glove box).

What are you saying? I understand that money is the biggest issue. That is how it is with modding any car. And if I did build this Cobra it wouldn't be an over night thing. And what do you mean about resale value?

[Excaliber]

SPF and FFR (I THINK FFR) use the Ford 8.8 IRS typically found in T-Birds and some Lincolns. Not sure how that compares to the Mustang IRS components. That said, a live axle properly setup is MUCH cheaper and depending on track conditions will perform close to or as good as an IRS.

All though re-sale should not be a huge issue you can really hurt the future value with certain largely undesireable "options". Auto trans, non Ford engine, to much "custom" interior, exterior, etc.

It would be advisable to stay within standard accepted practices when building your replica. Stirpes should be as per known "specs", for instance.

FFR and JBL are worlds apart in "cost". A really well setup FFR MIGHT be able to hang with a JBL, but I wouldn't bet on it! I would not consider either of those body styles as "accurate" as other choices. But you were talking about "handling" not "looks".

[casaleenie]

Originally posted by rdorman


While in a completely different price point from FFR, don't forget to check out JBL motorsports. I begin to drool everytime I look at their chassis.
Rick

RIck,

Hell, you drool when you see a beer.. or tequilla, or a beer with a tequilla chaser or a picture of a beer.
Lets not even get into the bratwurst thing...

(how do you spell tequilla?)

[Monkie]

Originally posted by Excaliber


SPF and FFR (I THINK FFR) use the Ford 8.8 IRS typically found in T-Birds and some Lincolns. Not sure how that compares to the Mustang IRS components. That said, a live axle properly setup is MUCH cheaper and depending on track conditions will perform close to or as good as an IRS.

All though re-sale should not be a huge issue you can really hurt the future value with certain largely undesireable "options". Auto trans, non Ford engine, to much "custom" interior, exterior, etc.

It would be advisable to stay within standard accepted practices when building your replica. Stirpes should be as per known "specs", for instance.

FFR and JBL are worlds apart in "cost". A really well setup FFR MIGHT be able to hang with a JBL, but I wouldn't bet on it! I would not consider either of those body styles as "accurate" as other choices. But you were talking about "handling" not "looks".

Ok, now we're getting somewhere. Thanks for the info man! I saw on a site last night of a Cobra kit car but the body was aluminum. Who makes that kit? And when you guys say the car can get away from you, what do you mean? Is there any understeer or is it oversteer?

[klayfish]

The aluminum car is probably a Kirkham or CSX.

As for the handling, it can be understeer, but generally we're talking oversteer. "Snap" oversteer. If you plow into a corner too hard, the car will understeer, and if you have sticky tires and power out too hard, it can also understeer. But when the rear decides to break loose, you generally don't get much warning or much chance to catch it. It'll swap ends in a hurry. I've done it in autox before, never on the open track. I think it's pretty common to any short wheelbase car with a 50/50 weight balance. My MR2 is notorious for this. But when you add high horsepower, it can make for a wild ride. If you drive smart...don't brake mid-corner, don't lift mid-corner, you should be OK.

Steve

[Monkie]

Originally posted by klayfish


The aluminum car is probably a Kirkham or CSX.

As for the handling, it can be understeer, but generally we're talking oversteer. "Snap" oversteer. If you plow into a corner too hard, the car will understeer, and if you have sticky tires and power out too hard, it can also understeer. But when the rear decides to break loose, you generally don't get much warning or much chance to catch it. It'll swap ends in a hurry. I've done it in autox before, never on the open track. I think it's pretty common to any short wheelbase car with a 50/50 weight balance. My MR2 is notorious for this. But when you add high horsepower, it can make for a wild ride. If you drive smart...don't brake mid-corner, don't lift mid-corner, you should be OK.

Steve

You drive a MR2 too? So do I! I've got a 91 MR2 turbo. And I know allllllll about snap oversteer. So who makes the best kit for price, easy build, and good quality?

[Dangerous Doug]

Monkie: Your best bang for the buck right now is a limited time offer from Kirkham on their 427F for $25k. Since you're building it yourself, you can take advantage of Kirkham's desire to put about 25 cars out there being built by people with no manuals, but with factory support via phone or web site. Check it out at www.kirkhammotorsports.com. The Kirkham's may have a few more seats available. Last I heard they were going fast. That's where my money would be spent at the moment.

Also, Kirkham (even a Kirkham fiberglass car) will maintain a high resale value by nature of their quality record.

Good luck, and I wish I had the cash on hand to jump into the fray. I'm sidelined for now.

Dangerous Doug

[rdorman]

Originally posted by casaleenie


RIck,

Hell, you drool when you see a beer.. or tequilla, or a beer with a tequilla chaser or a picture of a beer.
Lets not even get into the bratwurst thing...

(how do you spell tequilla?)

I do tend to drool a lot. Add a beautiful woman to your equation and then you will see some serious drool! And yes, lets leave the brats out of it.

Monkie, the deal from Kirkham right now is almost beyond belief. If that is in the range for you, JUMP ON IT. From a bang for the buck stand point on a car that you want to track race the FFR spec racer is hard to beat.

Rick

[klayfish]

I've owned 4 MR2s. I owned a '91 n/a, which I really liked. But to me, it was more of a highway cruiser (I know the turbo is a whole different animal). I've owned 3 MK1s. My current is an '85, I took it to work today in fact. They are true gocarts, but the oversteer can catch you by surprise. It's amazing how fast it can go around. Lots of fun during autox, but I'm nervous about taking it on the open track (not to mention it's got 112hp, so I'll get run over).

As for the best Cobra, you're going to find that's a lot like asking Ford vs. Chevy or small block vs. big block. I'd dare say that none of the major manufacturers makes a "bad" car. The quality greatly depends on the parts you put in and the skill of the builder. You can get a "turnkey minus" car, which is complete less motor/trans. Superformance is among the larger of these, as well as Backdraft. You can have one built for you by any one of dozens of professional builders. Each one has it's own strong points, and I'll be the first to say there are probably better authorities on the specifics of each manufacturer out there. I own an FFR, and absolutely love the car. Very inexpensive, open track and race proven chassis, very light weight, easy to gets parts, great owners group. But look around at all the ones you can.

Steve

[Monkie]

SORRY GUYS, I GUESS I SHOULD HAVE SAID FIRST THAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT A COUPE, NOT ROADSTER. Sorry for the confusion.

[Monkie]

So can anyone give me some good info on a Daytona Coupe?