Changing oil - Page 2

Snakebit · #21 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 03:09 PM

Nothing like the feel of hot oil running down your elbow!

WildBill3 · #22 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 03:22 PM

a little hot oil treatment on the hair does wonders!!!

WarrenG · #23 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 05:39 PM

Several of the guys around here use a 1 gallon milk jug that the top has been cut out large enough to fit around the oil filter. Stronger than a plastic bag and it has a handle.

427 S/O · #24 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 05:42 PM

You gotta raise the funnel up a little bit, it's setting on a rocker arm.

427 S/O · #25 (**permalink**) 06-14-2007, 05:44 PM

Oh!, the oil fill tube!, mine is welded up.

CBattaglia · #26 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 08:57 AM

I have read that all of the oil does not drain out of the system. With a 7 qt. system I was expecting to drain and add 7 qts.

Do you clear out all of the lines to get all of the oil out? I feel a bit uncomfortable leaving any old oil in the system.

patrickt · #27 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CBattaglia

IDo you clear out all of the lines to get all of the oil out? I feel a bit uncomfortable leaving any old oil in the system.

You do not have to clear out the lines. If you just tilt the front end up a little bit by jacking the front end up, remove the oil filter and drain plug, and let it drain until it quits drizzling out the hole, you'll be just fine. Don't worry about the oil that doesn't come out -- you never ever get 100% of the oil out on an oil change.

RedBarchetta · #28 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 09:48 AM

If you have a front sump Canton pan, I would recommend jacking up the rear of the car if you absolutely, positively want to extract all of the oil. I recently had to drop my oil pan and on my level wood ramps I still had at least 1/2 quart in there. Notice in this pic that the pan orientation when installed does have a slight set-back to it (relative to the level frame). FWIW, this particular Canton pan was also recently powder-coated (Canton will send you the stickers if you e-mail them).

-Dean

wtm442 · #29 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 427 S/O

You gotta raise the funnel up a little bit, it's setting on a rocker arm.

... or cut the tip at a 45 degree angle.

CBattaglia · #30 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 11:15 AM

Notice in this pic that the pan orientation when installed does have a slight set-back to it (relative to the level frame).

Looks like the plug is on the wrong side

rdorman · #31 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 11:20 AM

Don't worry about getting all the oil out. It is an exercise in futility.

RedBarchetta · #32 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 12:14 PM

Hey, I don't weld them but I can make them look prettier.

SantaFe66 · #33 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 09:22 PM

I bought a suction device from Griot's garage (http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=10186) and suck the oil out of the dipstick tube. No lift needed. I have an 8 qt., front sump pan and get almost all of the oil out. I also just jack the left front to get at the filter and drop it into a cutoff milk jug.

I'm not sure it's all that important to get every drop of oil out if you change it often enough.

I change mine every 60 days no matter how many miles I put on during the spring and summer months. Cheap insurance. I also use premium, high quality filters, not those Fram cheapies.

By the way, there is a suction device that you manually pump the suction with a handle like a bicycle pump. It's cheaper than the one at Griot's and made by the same company (Mity Vac). They also make a very cool vacuum brake bleeder that works great.

Just my .02.

Paul

CSX 4027 · #34 (**permalink**) 10-03-2007, 10:18 PM

I know changing often sounds like a good idea as in your example below but there's a catch.
If you are using modern oil with high detergent, you are not giving the oil a chance to do it's job. Too often is not good. Those oils work best when gone at least 3000 miles.
If you are using a non street legal low or no detergent oil like Valvoline VV851 20w/50, you will be better off. It has less than half the detergent of modern oil and need to be changed every 500 miles or 3 months.
There have been any articles quoted on CC about oils but little about the change intervals.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SantaFe66

I bought a suction device from Griot's garage (http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=10186) and suck the oil out of the dipstick tube. No lift needed. I have an 8 qt., front sump pan and get almost all of the oil out. I also just jack the left front to get at the filter and drop it into a cutoff milk jug.

I'm not sure it's all that important to get every drop of oil out if you change it often enough.

I change mine every 60 days no matter how many miles I put on during the spring and summer months. Cheap insurance. I also use premium, high quality filters, not those Fram cheapies.

By the way, there is a suction device that you manually pump the suction with a handle like a bicycle pump. It's cheaper than the one at Griot's and made by the same company (Mity Vac). They also make a very cool vacuum brake bleeder that works great.

Just my .02.

Paul