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06-14-2007, 03:09 PM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Salem,,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2100 Rio Red Wimbledon White Stripes 302 stroked to 331 Webers Richmond Road Race 5 speed
Posts: 782
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Not Ranked
Nothing like the feel of hot oil running down your elbow!
__________________
Snakebit
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06-14-2007, 03:22 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Raytown,
mo
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR Coupe SOLD.Current 66 Mustang
Posts: 962
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Not Ranked
a little hot oil treatment on the hair does wonders!!!
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06-14-2007, 05:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Darnestown,
MD
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289FIA, 289 stroked to 331, 392 HP
Posts: 478
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Not Ranked
Several of the guys around here use a 1 gallon milk jug that the top has been cut out large enough to fit around the oil filter. Stronger than a plastic bag and it has a handle.
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06-14-2007, 05:42 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Senoia,
Ga.
Cobra Make, Engine: 427SO with big twin autolite inlines on custom intake, jag rear, top loader, wembeldon white, guardsmen blue stripes
Posts: 3,155
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Not Ranked
You gotta raise the funnel up a little bit, it's setting on a rocker arm.
__________________
Perry
Remember!, there's a huge difference between a 'parts' changer, and a mechanic.
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06-14-2007, 05:44 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Senoia,
Ga.
Cobra Make, Engine: 427SO with big twin autolite inlines on custom intake, jag rear, top loader, wembeldon white, guardsmen blue stripes
Posts: 3,155
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Not Ranked
Oh!, the oil fill tube!, mine is welded up.
__________________
Perry
Remember!, there's a huge difference between a 'parts' changer, and a mechanic.
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10-03-2007, 08:57 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Goshen,
ny
Cobra Make, Engine: Gary Edwards Racing 460
Posts: 444
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Not Ranked
Changing Oil
I have read that all of the oil does not drain out of the system. With a 7 qt. system I was expecting to drain and add 7 qts.
Do you clear out all of the lines to get all of the oil out? I feel a bit uncomfortable leaving any old oil in the system.
__________________
Its not the will to win that matters....Everyone has that. Its the will to prepare to win that matters.
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10-03-2007, 09:05 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,005
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by CBattaglia
IDo you clear out all of the lines to get all of the oil out? I feel a bit uncomfortable leaving any old oil in the system.
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You do not have to clear out the lines. If you just tilt the front end up a little bit by jacking the front end up, remove the oil filter and drain plug, and let it drain until it quits drizzling out the hole, you'll be just fine. Don't worry about the oil that doesn't come out -- you never ever get 100% of the oil out on an oil change.
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10-03-2007, 09:48 AM
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Banned
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Yorba Linda,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF w/392CI stroker
Posts: 3,293
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Not Ranked
If you have a front sump Canton pan, I would recommend jacking up the rear of the car if you absolutely, positively want to extract all of the oil. I recently had to drop my oil pan and on my level wood ramps I still had at least 1/2 quart in there. Notice in this pic that the pan orientation when installed does have a slight set-back to it (relative to the level frame). FWIW, this particular Canton pan was also recently powder-coated (Canton will send you the stickers if you e-mail them).
-Dean
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10-03-2007, 09:50 AM
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Beam Me Up Scottie
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Squantum (part of Quincy),
MA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF1049 Titanium w/black stripes, 351W with Trick Flow Heads, Tremec 3550
Posts: 7,592
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by 427 S/O
You gotta raise the funnel up a little bit, it's setting on a rocker arm.
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... or cut the tip at a 45 degree angle.
__________________
Warren
'Liberals are maggots upon the life of this planet and need to get off at the next rotation.' (Jamo 2008)
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10-03-2007, 11:15 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Goshen,
ny
Cobra Make, Engine: Gary Edwards Racing 460
Posts: 444
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Not Ranked
Notice in this pic that the pan orientation when installed does have a slight set-back to it (relative to the level frame).
Looks like the plug is on the wrong side
__________________
Its not the will to win that matters....Everyone has that. Its the will to prepare to win that matters.
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10-03-2007, 11:20 AM
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Renegade Nuns on Wheels
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: columbus,
Oh
Cobra Make, Engine: Unique 427 roadster with 351C-4B
Posts: 5,129
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Not Ranked
Don't worry about getting all the oil out. It is an exercise in futility.
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10-03-2007, 12:14 PM
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Banned
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Yorba Linda,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF w/392CI stroker
Posts: 3,293
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Not Ranked
Hey, I don't weld them but I can make them look prettier.
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10-03-2007, 09:22 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Santa Fe,
NM
Cobra Make, Engine: Cardiac, 428 FE
Posts: 301
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Not Ranked
I bought a suction device from Griot's garage ( http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=10186) and suck the oil out of the dipstick tube. No lift needed. I have an 8 qt., front sump pan and get almost all of the oil out. I also just jack the left front to get at the filter and drop it into a cutoff milk jug.
I'm not sure it's all that important to get every drop of oil out if you change it often enough.
I change mine every 60 days no matter how many miles I put on during the spring and summer months. Cheap insurance. I also use premium, high quality filters, not those Fram cheapies.
By the way, there is a suction device that you manually pump the suction with a handle like a bicycle pump. It's cheaper than the one at Griot's and made by the same company (Mity Vac). They also make a very cool vacuum brake bleeder that works great.
Just my .02.
Paul
Last edited by SantaFe66; 10-03-2007 at 09:41 PM..
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10-03-2007, 10:18 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: The Heart of the Citrus District,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Sold 3047 & 3002 in 2012
Posts: 2,763
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Not Ranked
Oil
I know changing often sounds like a good idea as in your example below but there's a catch.
If you are using modern oil with high detergent, you are not giving the oil a chance to do it's job. Too often is not good. Those oils work best when gone at least 3000 miles.
If you are using a non street legal low or no detergent oil like Valvoline VV851 20w/50, you will be better off. It has less than half the detergent of modern oil and need to be changed every 500 miles or 3 months.
There have been any articles quoted on CC about oils but little about the change intervals.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SantaFe66
I bought a suction device from Griot's garage ( http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....2050&SKU=10186) and suck the oil out of the dipstick tube. No lift needed. I have an 8 qt., front sump pan and get almost all of the oil out. I also just jack the left front to get at the filter and drop it into a cutoff milk jug.
I'm not sure it's all that important to get every drop of oil out if you change it often enough.
I change mine every 60 days no matter how many miles I put on during the spring and summer months. Cheap insurance. I also use premium, high quality filters, not those Fram cheapies.
By the way, there is a suction device that you manually pump the suction with a handle like a bicycle pump. It's cheaper than the one at Griot's and made by the same company (Mity Vac). They also make a very cool vacuum brake bleeder that works great.
Just my .02.
Paul
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